New Release
Z3 provides a comprehensive live report from SIHH 2012, focusing on A. Lange & Söhne's new novelties. This article highlights key releases such as the Grand Lange 1 with its redesigned caliber, offering valuable insights into the brand's aesthetic and technical advancements. Z3's detailed observations help readers understand the significance of these introductions for collectors.
The 2012 SIHH PuristSPro Live Report
- Jon Z. (Z3)
A. Lange & Sohne
Lange has 5 new novelties this year - Grand Lange 1 with the "proper" proportions thanks to a newly designed calibre L095.1, the Datograph Up/Down, Saxonia Thin, the luminous version of the Lange 1 Timezone, and the tastefully discreet Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.
The Grand Lange 1 in 41mm diameter has been around for some years, however, it has been using the same movement as the original 38.5mm Lange 1. As the typical result of a smaller movement in a larger case, everything appears squished to the center - the subdials overlap, and the date window also overlaps with the main dial. This dial layout is somewhat inconsistent with the beautiful proportions of the originally Lange 1 and appears to be hastily pieced together, to satisfy the needs for a larger dimension...
In this day and age, with the taste for larger watches, I am sure that many people who appreciate the beauty of the line, find the original 38.5mm size to be small; however, they also cannot bring themselves to appreciate the "squished look" of the Grand Lange 1. Hence, they waited and prayed for the next natural aesthetic progression...
... and voila!
I was quite impressed with Lange's effort to develop a new movement L095.1, to accommodate the larger case. As the result, the new Grand Lange 1 has the same beautiful proportion as the original, with the size (40.9mm to be exact) that would satisfy the dual needs for an exquisitely designed dress watch that's also large enough to make a statement. I have a feeling that this would be a winner!
They come in Platinum, Pink Gold and Yellow Gold
The larger movement that fills up the entire case.
Perfect size on my wrist
The Saxonia Thin in white gold. (40mm diameter, 5.9mm height)
Lange 1 Timezone with luminous hands, giving it a dress-casual look.
Datograph Up/Down in platinum, with power reserve on at 6'O clock.
the L951.6 Calibre that incorporates the power reserve indicator, as well as increasing the power by 24 hours.
The most heart-warming novelty from Lange this year must be the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, introduced in platinum or rose gold.
At the first glance, the watch looks like a simple Lange 1 Moonphase, a closer inspection would reveal the week, the month on the rim, the leap year indication discreetly positioned at 6'O clock. The useful power reserve is also kept on the main dial.
The tourbillon is visible only at the back.
It's an amazing feat to incorporate so many functionalities without making the dial look busy, while faithfully keeping the design DNA of Lange 1.
The tourbillon cage discreetly positioned at the top.
At the size of 41.9mm diameter and height of 12.2mm, it is also not thick for such a high complication piece.
A fantastic year by Lange, with a small set of pleasant and wearable novelties. Kudos to the Grand Lange 1 and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar!
Hope you have enjoyed the post.
Yours Truly,
Jon Z. (Z3)
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-01-23 19:24:39 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-01-31 18:36:46
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 reference 206.032, introduced in 1999, is a notable example of the brand's commitment to traditional watchmaking principles. This model is part of the 1815 collection, which pays homage to the birth year of Ferdinand Adolph Lange and emphasizes classic design elements such as Arabic numerals and blued hands, drawing inspiration from historical Lange pocket watches. It represents a more understated and purist aesthetic compared to some of the brand's more complex offerings, focusing on fundamental horological excellence.
This particular reference features an 18k rose gold case measuring 36mm in diameter and 7.5mm in thickness. It houses the manually wound L941.1 caliber, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front, protecting a solid silver dial. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for immersion.
The 1815 206.032 appeals to collectors who appreciate classical proportions and a focus on fundamental watchmaking without excessive complications. Its smaller case size reflects a more traditional approach to men's wristwatches, making it a desirable piece for those seeking a discreet yet highly refined timepiece. The combination of rose gold and a silver dial offers a warm and legible presentation, consistent with the collection's historical inspirations.
Lange 1 Perpetual must be wonderful on the wrist. Not sure if it should have tourbillon, though Have to see it in person.... Ken
I love the new Tourb perpetual... I wonder why it is not being better received? The Grand L1 is a huge improvement... but in pics, the perfect TENSION in the original L1, is lost... however, there is now an openness, a relaxed expansion... so I suppose it's a choice of which philosophy of design. tension or release? I prefer, in this case, the exquisite tension.
Agreed, the watch is amazing without tourbillon. With just the perpetual it might be thinner as well.
I also like the tension or the compactness of the original Lange 1. However, if we are going to increase in size without increasing the complications, then this relaxation is inevitable, no?
is gorgeous, and so AL&S. Not sure about the big rotor though. Still, a tour de force novelty.
I will explain why. Fx
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