foversta provides a comprehensive review of A. Lange & Söhne's 2012 SIHH collection, offering an initial impression of disappointment that quickly turned into admiration upon seeing the watches in person. This article delves into the subtle yet ambitious improvements across key pillars of the collection, such as the Datograph and Grand Lange 1, and highlights Lange's unwavering commitment to technical excellence and meticulous detail.
I arrived at the SIHH on Tuesday so I first discovered the Lange novelties through the Press releases. I will be frank with you: I had a slight feeling of disappointment when I read them due to the impression of "deja-vue". But, as always, it is difficult to judge watches without seeing them in the metal. So I prefered to see and to handle them before drawing any conclusion especially when it comes from my fav manufacture!
It was a requirement with this new collection: it appears to be much more subtle than at first glance and more important, more ambitious.
Believe me, it is not that easy to touch two pilars of the collection: the Datograph and the Grand Lange 1. It is not easy to propose a hidden automatic Tourbillon far from the traditional way for Lange to offer a Tourbillon.After my week at the SIHH, I was much more convinced by the 2012 collection. What are the points which can be highlighted?
- Lange remains technically on top: it is a certitude for me. Let's take an example: the way the months ring system of the Lange 1 Tourbillon PC was designed is impressive. I will dedicated a specific post on it later.
- Lange still has a great care of details. They develop a new date mechanism for the Datograph only to propose a date window which is 4% larger than the previous one... to preserve the balance of the dial. I don't think we would meet a lot of other brands which would really care for these 4%.
- Quality is flawless: when we handle the prototypes, we know that they will work. No doubt about this. The finishings still meet our high expectations.
- The number of new watches is quite high for a brand which produces 4500/5000 watches per year. A symbol of creative energy.
-
The in-house hairspring is used more and more often, a proof of increasing independance from companies outside Richemont.
So the picture is perfect?
No! Because as I'm talking about the brand which has a special place in my heart, I have a very demanding attitude and I think there is a romm for improvement!
- I would have taken the opportunity of the WG Saxonia to propose a
different dial colour. Through the time, I think that the dial offer is decreasing. I understand the reasons, a more rationalized approach was required with such limited production. But I wasn't expecting 4 different dial colours for the Saxonia. Only one like black or deep blue would have been surprising enough and would have created a strong contrast with the PG version.
- I would be very happy to see a
more daring aesthetical design: don't get we wrong. The watches are beautiful, balanced, flawless. But perfection is sometimes less exciting than a flaw which brings spice. Spice, that's the key word. I would like to see more spice, more fantasy on specific models. Not all of course.
- And things become more difficult for a collector like me. I can't afford anymore the new Lange watches I love. It is a bit frustrating but I also understand the strategy of the brand. I'm very happy with my collection but I would so pleased so see
something "less classy" around 20K euros (of course a 3 hands watch in this price range). So again, sorry to sing the same lyrics but an original dial for the WG Saxonia would have been perfect in that purpose. Or a simple watch with the Sax-O-Mat movement? It is only housed by the calendar watches now.
It was at the end a solid SIHH for Lange, not the best in terms of "excitement" but a very good one in terms of quality and improvement of the collection. It is the reason why I chose this thread title.
I propose to browse the novelties now... but before we shall start by a view on the booth! Of course, I will come back to the watches more precisely later this year.
Ready to enter the booth to browse the 8 parts report?
Booth:
alang.watchprosite.com
Datograph Up and Down:
alang.watchprosite.com
Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual:
alang.watchprosite.com
Grand Lange 1:
alang.watchprosite.com
Lange 1 Timezone WG:
alang.watchprosite.com
Saxonia Thin:
alang.watchprosite.com
Ladies' watches:
alang.watchprosite.com
Conclusion:
alang.watchprosite.com
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2012-01-25 14:03:28 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-01-31 18:37:00