Samwan's latest acquisition, the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon with black enamel dial, offers a masterclass in horological artistry and technical sophistication. His detailed review provides an intimate look at the watch's craftsmanship, from its champlevé enamel dial to its patented hacking tourbillon. This article explores why this reference stands out even within a collection of exceptional timepieces.
I know I am beginning to sound like Eliza Doolittle but after an anxious wait of six months, I can hardly contain my excitement when the time piece arrives.
This is the 1815 Tourbillon with black enamel dial.
In the flesh, the watch surpassed my expectations on more counts than one and, without any doubt, is currently my favorite watch (yes, for now, because a big piece is coming at year-end but I will keep a little suspense).
Allow me to dwell into some of the details.
The watch is housed in a platinum case and therefore, feels very substantial on the wrist - which I like. This is the third Lange piece with grand feu black enamel - after the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerskunst and the Minute Repeater Perpetual. I must say, the quality of the black enamel produced by Lange's in-house department has improved significantly over the years. Let me illustrate this point with the photos, some of which are courtesy of Lange.
The dial in an 18k white gold disc which is first engraved to create relief marking, Enamel is then applied around the raised area before firing in the oven. The process is repeated a few times after which the polishing ensures the dial is flat and glossy. This enameling technique is known commonly as champleve.
As expected, the watch also houses Lange's patented hacking function, relying on a slim lever to touch the balance wheel, thus stopping the Tourbillon when the crown is pulled out. This zero reset function allows for more accurate setting of the time. The Tourbillon is held by a frosted and black polished bridge in the carriage.
Here is the watch, tugged comfortably among others in a box Can you tell how many of them have an enamel dial?
Finally, the specifications:
Ref 730.094F
Diameter 39.5mm
Height 11.3 mm
Water Resistance 30m
Movement L 102.1
Frequency 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
72 hours Power Reserve
Hand wind
Limited to 50 pieces
About the A. Lange and Söhne Emil Lange Ref. 1815
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 reference 206.032, introduced in 1999, is a notable example of the brand's commitment to traditional watchmaking principles. This model is part of the 1815 collection, which pays homage to the birth year of Ferdinand Adolph Lange and emphasizes classic design elements such as Arabic numerals and blued hands, drawing inspiration from historical Lange pocket watches. It represents a more understated and purist aesthetic compared to some of the brand's more complex offerings, focusing on fundamental horological excellence.
This particular reference features an 18k rose gold case measuring 36mm in diameter and 7.5mm in thickness. It houses the manually wound L941.1 caliber, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front, protecting a solid silver dial. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for immersion.
The 1815 206.032 appeals to collectors who appreciate classical proportions and a focus on fundamental watchmaking without excessive complications. Its smaller case size reflects a more traditional approach to men's wristwatches, making it a desirable piece for those seeking a discreet yet highly refined timepiece. The combination of rose gold and a silver dial offers a warm and legible presentation, consistent with the collection's historical inspirations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- L941.1
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 36mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the A. Lange and Söhne Lange 1 Ref. 1815Tourbillon
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon, reference 730.078F, is a distinguished model within the 1815 collection, known for its focus on traditional watchmaking and classical aesthetics. This particular reference stands out for its combination of a tourbillon complication with a black enamel dial, a rare and highly regarded feature that enhances its visual depth and exclusivity. It represents a refined expression of high horology, emphasizing technical sophistication within a restrained design. The hacking seconds mechanism integrated into the tourbillon further underscores its precision engineering.
The watch is presented in a platinum case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 11.3mm in thickness, offering a substantial yet wearable presence. It is equipped with the manual-wind caliber L102.1, which provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, allowing appreciation of its intricate finishing and the tourbillon in operation. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch offers a water resistance of 30 meters.
This reference appeals to collectors who value traditional German watchmaking and the technical artistry of a tourbillon, especially when paired with a handcrafted enamel dial. The black enamel dial variant is particularly sought after for its depth and luster, which are achieved through a meticulous firing process. It occupies a significant position within the 1815 series as a high-complication piece that maintains the collection's characteristic legibility and classical proportions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- L102.1
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- Black enamel
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
