Kurono Tokyo: Brand Reference Guide

Jay (Eire) · 2024-11-03T20:11:09Z

Explore Kurono Tokyo's boutique-exclusive Grand Urushi Aoyama collection. Jay (Eire) reviews the lacquer dials, unique finishes, and collector insights.

Jay (Eire)

WPS member · Independents forum

42 replies8575 views9 photos

Jay (Eire)'s insightful visit to the Kurono Tokyo boutique in Aoyama offers a rare, in-person look at Hajime Asaoka's distinctive creations. His post highlights the boutique-exclusive Grand Urushi Aoyama collection, providing crucial details on its limited availability and unique aesthetic. This article synthesizes community reactions, offering a comprehensive perspective on Kurono Tokyo's appeal and market position.

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Took a walk over to Aoyama to visit Hajime Asaoka’s Kurono Tokyo boutique yesterday evening.

The boutique opened last year I think, and in addition to having a display of several of the past collections they also have a limited run collection of 3 watches for sale in the boutique only (unlike all the others which sell online only). These editions are called Grand Urushi Aoyama. There are 188 of each, including either 80 or 88 of each that are sold only as a set of all three.

These boutique watches each have Urushi (lacquer) dials, something Kurono has used before, you can see the colours in the pictures below. In addition the base dials each have a different pattern / “finish” representing something personal to Asaoka-san. What I like about this edition is that there are no numerals, so almost Moser-like you have a pretty clean dial with the attention on the colour (and underlying texture, light play).

This is my first time seeing any of Kurono’s watches in person. Personally I like the sizing, all small cases including the new 34mm case with that art deco style. On first handling the cases seem to be of decent quality, something which is not always true at these price points. Inside are basic Miyota movements (except the chronos which are Seiko).

There is also a picture below showing the one of the current Boutique editions together with a similarly coloured (but different) Urushi dial from an earlier release.

The staff were super friendly and happy to spend time showing all the watches, and chatting about the brand.

The current boutique Grand Urushi Aoyama together with a similarly coloured Urushi dial from a prior edition. The colour is quite different, in addition the underlying texture on the dial surface is also different.

The newly released and sold out I think 34mm art deco style.

A chronograph, with the Seiko movement, from a prior edition.

Watch by AHCI and independent haute horlogerie, Kurono, Kurono Chrono, Kurono Chronograph 1

Watch by AHCI and independent haute horlogerie, Kurono, Kurono Chrono, Kurono Chronograph 1

Key Points from the Discussion

The Grand Urushi Aoyama collection is exclusively available for purchase in person at the Aoyama boutique, a departure from Kurono Tokyo's usual online-only sales model. This strategy appears to cater more to international tourists, who comprise an estimated 70% of the boutique's foot traffic, rather than domestic demand.
The Urushi dials, particularly the Grand Urushi Aoyama editions, are praised for their clean aesthetic due to the absence of numerals, which draws attention to the vibrant colors and underlying textures. The dials exhibit dynamic light play, shifting from grayish to plain white depending on the angle.
One collector noted that the dial color of their previous Urushi piece changes over time with UV exposure, suggesting that wearing the watch outdoors can subtly lighten its hue. This characteristic adds a unique, evolving element to the watch's appearance.
The time-only models, including the 34mm cases with their Art Deco styling, are particularly appealing to some collectors. The chronographs are also appreciated for their clean design, with the use of high-end Seiko movements featuring vertical clutches and column wheels adding significant value.
The boutique experience at Kurono Tokyo is consistently described as welcoming and accommodating, a refreshing contrast to many other luxury watch retailers where visitors might feel less at ease. Staff are reportedly very happy to showcase their collections.
The concept of 'love' for a watch, rather than 'need,' is highlighted as the primary driver for purchase, especially for unique pieces like the Urushi dials. The Aoyama box set, in particular, was seen as offering great value.

The Discussion

orahu

Mar 17, 2023

Very nice report — thank you — I think the 34 mm “art deco” reference appeals to me the most.

Jay (Eire)

Mar 17, 2023

Me too. But sold out I think.

Seems like art deco and small size will be a thing going forward however.

VinnieD

Mar 17, 2023

yes, I had an eye on that one

it deserves a more colourful strap though Congrats to those who secured it. I hesitated whilst the silvery white option was still available - nice pieces all around Thanks for the atmospheric photo report

Jay (Eire)

Mar 17, 2023

The SA said that they purposely choose these straps on all references.

The idea was keep it simple as the expectation is buyers will mount something more to their taste.

AuHavrePro

Mar 17, 2023

Beautiful pieces.

Thanks for posting the pictures here! Cheers, Filip

Jay (Eire)

Mar 17, 2023

They were pretty appealing.

To me, these boutique editions are likely my favourite so far. The caveat being, this was also the very first time to see any in the metal. But I like the simple dial without markers or numerals.

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