Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar Review

amanico · 2022-12-05T10:18:12Z

Explore the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar with amanico's expert review. Compare the 2016 rose gold and 2022 steel models, detailing design changes, movement, and collector insights.

amanico

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Amanico, a distinguished voice in the WatchProSite community, revisits the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar, offering a detailed comparison between the 2016 rose gold original and its updated 2022 steel counterpart. His comprehensive review highlights the subtle yet significant design evolutions that define this iconic reference's latest iteration. This article serves as an essential guide for collectors navigating the nuances of JLC's celebrated calendar complication within the Reverso line.

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Yes, we cannot really say it is a novelty, as the Reverso Tribute Calendar was issued in 2016, in rose gold, only.

But, to enhance the changes brought to this watch, Jaeger Lecoultre decided to change the name and to add the mention Duoface. To avoid any confusion, the 2016 Reverso Tribute Calendar also had the dual time complication, but here, there are some subtle but important cosmetic changes.

What doesn't change:

- The case proportions: 49, 4 mm x 29, 9 mm and it is 12, 06 mm high.

- The movement, which is the Cal 853, manual winding, beating at 21, 600 alterances per hour and whose power reserve is around 42 hours.

- The concept: The Recto displays the time, the day and the month, the moon phase and the date all around the moon phase, while the verso shows the night and the day indicator, as well as the second time zone.

What really changes is the choice of the straps, the dials design, and the fact that there is also a steel version now. Indeed, in 2016, the Reverso Tribute Calendar was only available in rose gold.

As for the design of the dials, here is the 2016 version:

You can better see the grained decoration of the main dial and how it depicts the moon phase.

Now we have a sunray decoration for the new Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar, and the moon phase style changes, too:

On the verso, the changes are more spectacular.

The 2016 version:

The new one:

No more clous de Paris ( hobnail ) on the outer part of the dial, the indices are surrounding the inner dial, they are differently shaped, as well as the night and day indicator.

The straps change, too. From the alligator straps we go now for two Fagliano: One which is a blend of calf and Cordura, and the other full calf.

The rose gold version is playing the card of nostalgia, adds some warmth, and gives a nice retro touch.

I find it even more elegant, and maybe a bit more qualitative than the former version.

But I am more attracted to the steel version. Of course, it is colder than the rose gold, it is monochromatic, at least on the recto, but I like its contemporary look a lot, as well as its blue verso dial.

And as there was no steel version before it adds some novelty to this reference.

The decoration of the dials are the same ( sunray rather than grained or hobnail ) for the steel and the rose gold. I find the verso blue dial quite cool and eye-catching.

Another detail, the straps. One is a blend of canvas and calf, the other is full calf, both Fagliano and blue.

A wrist shot ( Nicholas Hoult ) to give you an idea of rhe proportions of the watch:

Which one do you like ( more )?

The rose gold:

Or the steel:

Any thoughts?

Best,

Nicolas

Key Points from the Discussion

The steel version's dial appears to be grained rather than sunray, a subtle distinction that impacts its aesthetic. The larger size of this Reverso, while notable for the line, wears comparably to a 37-38mm round watch on the wrist, suggesting a design choice prioritizing dial symmetry and balance over a more compact case for the Caliber 853.
The blue dial and indices of the Duoface model are exceptionally well-executed, with the blue being particularly striking in person and the strap quality noted as superb.
Some collectors express a preference for the grained dial on the front and the hobnail pattern on the reverse of the older model, suggesting these elements contributed to a more classic JLC aesthetic. There's also a desire for more color accents, such as colored day and month indicators or a matching pointer tip, to enhance the watch's historical connection to JLC's calendar watches.
The hobnail pattern on the reverse side is a missed detail for some, though the updated Day/Night moon and star indicator is seen as an improvement. Suggestions include changing the date indicator to an arrow and using French text ('Jour' and 'Nuit') for a more romantic feel.
The absence of the hammered gold moon in the new steel version is noted as a loss, as its splash of color added a playful element to the previous iteration, making the new version feel comparatively more sober.

The Discussion

andrea~

Dec 5, 2022

I don't like the size though. Too big for a reverso.

Hulk

Dec 5, 2022

I tried on a similar duoface model recently and the blue dial and indices finish were gorgeous. The blue dial is hard to capture but in the flesh it's the best blue on a dial I've ever liked. The strap was superb too. Cheers S

andrea~

Dec 5, 2022

I can handle reversos that are up to 47mm lug to lug, anything more looks odd

mdg

Dec 5, 2022

...with the hobnail at the top of the list. Although the new Day/Night moon and star works better being 'revealed.' The date indicator would be nice as an arrow as well. Last, change the text to 'Jour' and 'Nuit.' More romantic in French : )

K-

K-Lo

Dec 5, 2022

Still chasing a 1931!!!

j.jota

Dec 5, 2022

...although I was under the impression that the dial on the steel version was grained (as opposed to sunray)? Hard to tell in the photos, but really nice never the less No doubt the size is large for a Reverso, but when compared to most contemporary watches it wears like a 37 or 38mm round piece. I guess we're just used to Reversos being on the small size. The caliber could probably fit into a Grande Taille size case, but the day and month windows would then either collide with the outer running

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar Review

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