JLC Master Ultra Thin 38.5 Automatic Review

amanico · 2014-02-17T02:39:35Z

Amanico reviews the JLC Master Ultra Thin 38.5 Automatic from SIHH 2014, comparing it to other MUT models. Discover its design nuances and appeal.

amanico

WPS member · Jaeger-LeCoultre forum

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Amanico introduces the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin 38.5 Automatic at SIHH 2014, detailing its place within the evolving MUT collection. He provides a comparative analysis of its design, dimensions, and movement against its predecessors, offering crucial insights for collectors navigating JLC's subtle yet significant updates to its dress watch lines.

Jaeger Lecoultre re thought the Master Ultra Thin Collection.

The MUT 38, born in 2008, is now discontinued, at the benefit of this new MUT 38, 5 ( mm ) automatic version.

At first glance, this may be difficult to understand, as the MUT 38 with its manual movement was a very desirable Watch, but...

But, there is the MUT 39 with its awesome case, much thinner than the MUT 38, which appeared last year in the Jubilé collection ( platinum case, limite to 888 pieces ), and unlimited, in rose gold, this year.

The MGUT 40mm will stay in the catalog, which was a question I had in mind, as both the 38, 5 and the 40 share the same dial.

The size is in the appellation of this Watch, but you have to know that it is 7, 58 mm high, to be compared to the height of the former MUT 38 ( 6, 31 mm ).

Sober, efficient, elegant, you have a classic dial, with a superb small seconds, complimented by a great case. Thin, rather than Ultra Thin, though...

Did I already tell you that I am totally in love with these Ultra Thin cases?

This reference will be available in stainless steel and in rose gold.

Here is the rose gold version I could shoot at the Manufacture, during the preview of the 2014 collection.

And here a groupshot of three MUT, from the right to the left: The former MUT 38, the MGUT 40 and the all new MUT 38, 5 for you to appreciate the differences.

You will notice the longer double indexes in the MUT 38, 5 compared to the MGUT 40.

Another point which is interesting to see is that the small second subdial is more present on the MUT 38, 5, due to the fact that the dial is a tad smaller.

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best,

Nicolas. This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-02-17 02:52:13 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-02-19 03:31:43

Key Points from the Discussion

The MUT 38.5 Automatic is a very balanced watch with an aesthetically pleasing layout and dial, but yearly 'finesse changes' across the MUT line can make differentiation challenging for collectors.
Small changes like index lengths or subdial borders significantly impact the overall aesthetic, making in-person evaluation crucial for appreciating the subtle differences between MUT models.
The MUT 38.5 is praised for its size, balanced dial, and discreet charm, making it an excellent dress watch, though some prefer a silver-grained dial or a white gold version.
The longer double indexes at 3 and 9 o'clock on the MUT 38.5, compared to the MUT 40, give the 38.5 a more elegant feel and make the small seconds subdial more prominent.
The MUT 38.5's small seconds subdial appears more balanced due to the slightly smaller dial, and its longer indexes contribute to a more elegant overall impression.
While the MUT 39 and the original MUT 38 might be preferred by some, the MUT 38.5 Automatic is the ideal choice for those specifically seeking an automatic movement with a small seconds complication.

The Discussion

Sandgroper

Feb 17, 2014

writing on the right post, as not always;) I do prefer the 38.5 exactly for the reason you mentioned, the seconds sub dial looks more balanced and the longer indexes give the watch more elegant feeling in my opinion. I must say that I like the "old" 38mm with the 3,6,9 and 12 number and in white metal...very lovely! Cheers Francois from Down Under

spinoza

Feb 17, 2014

I have to admit: I love this watch! The size, the balanced dial, and overall discreet charm makes it a great dress-watch. (IMO) Would I have preferred a silver-grained dial to an eggshell coloured dial? Yes! Or maybe even a version in white gold? Perhaps! BTW, how does the case compare with the MUT Moon 39? It is difficult to tell from the pics, only! Thank you for the intro to this wonderful watch. Best Andreas

amanico

Feb 17, 2014

But I am totally nut for the white grained dial, so I lack objectivity. As for the difference between this MUT 38, 5 and the MUT Moon 39, you have to see them in the real to notice that there is almost... No difference. Best, Andreas, and thanks for sharing your opinion. Nicolas.

ImranLondon

Feb 17, 2014

It's a more purist watch, and one that is true to its moniker of ultra thin Now…… where is the 1948?????? I am growing more and more impatient!!!! Lol Imran

watchme

Feb 17, 2014

the varying index sizes. I've always liked the "art deco arrow heads" (as I refer to them, though that may not be accurate). On the 38.5, I like how they lengthen at 3 and 9 instead of shorten on the 40. This makes the 40's dial look much larger, but I would love to see JLC adopt it for the 40. I, too, love the new cases. It's the whole enchilada: case profile, new bezel design, etc. Move over VC & AP, JLC is barreling through to sit next to PP! -Dean

amanico

Feb 17, 2014

;) As for your taste, I have to agree. I would prefer the MUT 39 to the MUT 38, and the MUT 38 to this one. But, for those who really want an automatic movement and a small second, this is the one! Best, Nicolas

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