Jaeger-LeCoultre Finishing & Decoration Guide

amanico · 2023-02-03T21:06:50Z

Explore the critical distinction between watch movement finishing and decoration with insights from Jaeger-LeCoultre. Learn how JLC defines these terms and their impact on horological craftsmanship.

amanico

WPS member · Jaeger-LeCoultre forum

67 replies19355 views10 photos

In the intricate world of horology, the terms "finishing" and "decoration" are often used interchangeably, yet they represent distinct processes critical to a watch's performance and aesthetic appeal. Esteemed contributor amanico delves into this nuanced distinction, drawing upon insights directly from the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture. His exploration provides a foundational understanding for collectors seeking to appreciate the true craftsmanship behind a movement.

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It is very difficult to try to give a good definition of the words " Finishing " and " Decoration ".

Indeed, in our Watch lovers world, we always mention the finishing of a movement, to say that it is great or poor.

You will see, here, that the reality corresponds to different situations.

According to the people I met in the assembling and encasing workshop, at the Jaeger-Lecoultre Manufacture, finishing includes all the operations which will allow the parts to work together.

Jaeger Lecoultre kindly sent me a text providing some technical informations.

" These operations consist of matching up going-train parts (wheels, barrel drums or covers, cannon pinions, intermediate wheels) with their pivot holes.

This enables their diameters to be adjusted to within two microns and to make them perfectly concentric (around 0µ).

The decorations carried out here consist of diamond-cut sinks (flat or round) and counterpiercing.

- Counterpiercing is a decorative operation, done by hand or on a machine, enabling a chamfer around the pivot hole. The 90° angle is bevelled to 45°.

- The diamond-cut sink is a decorative recess made with a rotating or fixed diamond bit. The sink can have a rounded or flat surface, the latter reflecting more light than the former. "

Here, the Cal 822, with the rotative diamond " head ".

So, if a part is too " rough ", you have to polish it in order to reduce the frictions ot the minimum and to ensure the movement a longer life.

We can say that finishing is more functional. I add " more " because some décorations, as explained above, are part of a movement finishing.

Here are some traditional décorations which are part of the finishing:

Circular polish, Diamond moulding, Counterpiercings are the technics shown on the picture I took at the assembling and encasing worshop.

Decoration is more about aesthetics.

A decorated movement will not work, if not finished, and a finished movement may well not be much decorated, to try to make it simple.

Decoration through some well know words:

Perlage ( Stippling ), Anglage ( Beveling ), Cotes de Genève which can be straight, circular ( Colimaçonnage ) or Sunray ( Soleillé ), Mirror Polish ( Poli Miroir ) belong to the belle horlogerie lexicon, definitely.

It is funny to notice how many french words are used and understood in the whole world to describe a movement!

Some examples to illustrate these different technics.

Perlage. Before, on your right / after, on your left.

Colimaçonnage. Before, above / After, below:

Anglage:

Cotes de Genève, straight:

Soleillé:

These aesthetical improvements don't have much to see with functionality, but with the prestige of a brand, manufacture. They are the window display of the brand savoir faire.

Let's end in beauty with a marvel, one of the most nicely decorated movement among the modern Jaeger-Lecoultre production, the Gyrotourbillon II.

Now, you will not make the confusion between finishing and decoration anymore.

... As I won't.

Best,

Nicolas

Key Points from the Discussion

Finishing primarily serves a functional purpose, ensuring parts work together seamlessly, improving user experience, function, and durability. Decoration, while aesthetic, can also contribute to the perceived quality and market positioning of a timepiece.
The level of decoration often aligns with a brand's market niche; for example, Grand Seiko emphasizes functional finishing with conservative decoration, while Credor incorporates more stylistic flair, even if the underlying functional finishing is similar.
Beyond accuracy and durability, a movement's horological significance can be defined by its design for ease of serviceability and the inherent difficulty in emulating its unique construction, apart from historical precedence or patent protection.
Modern manufacturing techniques like spinning motors for anglage and CNC machines for perlage and Côtes de Genève offer efficiency but can sometimes compromise the sharpness of angles and étirages compared to traditional hand-finishing methods.
It's crucial to differentiate between functional finishing, often machine-executed, and decorative elements like anglage, which may vary significantly across a brand's price points. A well-finished movement can be admired for its mechanical integrity even without extensive decoration.
The marketing or 'bean counters' often influence the final aesthetic decisions regarding decoration, determining the 'look' for a watch within a brand's hierarchy or larger group, and occasionally, influential customers may even advise on specific decorative elements.

The Discussion

crown comfort

Jun 8, 2017

very enjoyable read and sure, no more confusion.

Alex25

Jun 8, 2017

Thanks for a great bit of information. By the way is there any book or a source that is dedicated to finishing?

kev09

Jun 8, 2017

Nicholas, if I could ask a question please. Who would decide what style of decoration will be applied to a particular movement. Is it the designer at a very early stage or later and by the technical people who will be working on it? Regards Kev.

fernando

Jun 8, 2017

of what to look for in a movement. Most of the time I inspect the anglage first to see how well it is done and that usually sets the standard for the rest of the movement IMO. Thanks for sharing. Best Fernando

cazalea

Jun 8, 2017

Usually decides on the decorations. Because I have seen written instructions given on how to decorate the various pieces. Although this could be decided very early in prototype stage, and the "bean counters" or marketing people might make the final decision in choosing the "look" for a watch at a given level in the brand (and how it fits in the larger group, like SWATCH). Or sometimes even a specific influential customer... "advises" on the look for his piece Cazalea

COUNT DE MONET

Jun 8, 2017

The only thing that is hard for me to believe at the moment is the 2 micron accuracy that JLC is communicating (even 0 microns). I am certainly open to believe it but 2 micron ( 2 micrometre is the diameter of a bacteria, like a staphylococcus.

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