Haute Horlogerie Hand Finishing & Watchmaking

Key Points from the Discussion

• The Greubel Forsey Handmade 1 distinguishes itself with a ground-up in-house conceived, designed, and built caliber, featuring an exemplary and original finish, though its angles are noted as more rigid compared to Philippe Dufour's work.
• While Philippe Dufour's Simplicity is a classic for finishing, its technical complexity is considered lower due to being a two-hander with a sub-seconds dial, whereas the Greubel Forsey Handmade 1, with its tourbillon, is a true complication.
• George Daniels and Roger Smith focused more on technical aspects than luxurious finishing, often employing frosted/gilded bridges and plates with more austere angles, which, while not inferior, lack the opulent finish of the Greubel Forsey Handmade 1.
• The Simplicity uses automated cut plates from a third-party vendor and its design is based on an old movement, not original. The Greubel Forsey Handmade 1, conversely, is made as much as possible with hand-operated tools, placing it on a different level of handwork, even if its anglage isn't as wide.
• The Longines 13ZN chronograph movement, despite not being as immaculately finished as a Greubel Forsey or Dufour, is proposed as a strong candidate for 'most appropriate' given its standard production context, available tools, and techniques of the mid-twentieth century.
• The Greubel Forsey Handmade 1's accuracy of -1/+2 seconds per day is highlighted as a significant technical achievement, surpassing even machine-made Rolexes and matching Patek Philippe tourbillons, making it a highly attractive proposition for collectors prioritizing precision.