Green Dial Watches: Heritage, Trends, Marketing Analysis

patrick_y · 2022-10-04T17:54:36Z

Explore the green dial trend in luxury watches. patrick_y asks if brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe are honoring heritage, following trends, or just marketing. Discover collector insights.

patrick_y

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

72 replies10377 views5 photos

patrick_y's insightful post delves into the pervasive trend of green-dialed watches, prompting a critical examination of whether brands are genuinely honoring heritage, strategically capitalizing on market trends, or simply engaging in marketing exercises. His analysis encourages collectors to discern between 'naturally' green designs and those that feel 'forced,' sparking a robust community discussion on authenticity and market influence in luxury watchmaking.

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Green dials... It's no secret, green dials have become popular. Nearly every brand from A to Z has done a green dial. Even Patek Philippe has dressed up one of its iconic references in green.

But who started this trend? It was Rolex. Rolex did it because its signature color happens to be green. Rolex here is capitalizing on its heritage. The Green Submariner (aka Kermit) was initially launched in 2003 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner. At first, the green bezeled "monstrosity" didn't sell well, but about a year or two later it started to sell.

Today, you notice multiple watch brands coming out with green dials. Many are intended for the Middle Eastern market, one of the fastest growing markets in the world for luxury watches. And consumers - sometimes the smartest in the room (and sometimes not) have been relatively quick to gobble these green dialed watches up. This new plethora of green dialed watches on the market brings the question...

1. How many watch companies are doing green dials due to a nod to that company's heritage or organic design? I would say the Rolex models with green dials are heritage. I would say the IWC Pilots Spitfire watches with a bronze case and green dial is an organic design choice. In other words which ones are "naturally" green?

2. Which watch companies are doing green dials to capitalize specifically on a trend and not necessarily targeting organic design? In other words, what models are "somewhat forced" to be green?

3. Which watch companies are doing green dials specifically as a marketing exercise? Be it to incur the favor of the Middle Eastern market or some other marketing reason... Which watches are specifically utilizing green colors to gain penetration? In other words, which companies are the greedy sell-outs?

And what are your overall thoughts about green dialed watches? Do you own any that are "natural" or "forced" green watches? Maybe some that were pure marketing plays? No problem that you do - if you like your watches immensely... But sometimes I find that I get carried away, and I have to take a step back and look at the big picture.

About the Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16610LV

The Submariner Date reference 16610LV, often recognized by its distinctive green bezel, was introduced to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner line. This particular reference stands out from the standard Submariner Date models due to its unique colorway, offering a different aesthetic while retaining the core design principles of the collection. It represents a specific period in the Submariner's evolution, bridging classic design with a celebratory touch.

This reference features a 40mm Oyster case crafted from 904L stainless steel, paired with a matching Oyster bracelet. It is equipped with the self-winding Rolex Caliber 3135, a movement known for its precision and reliability, offering a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, and its construction ensures a water resistance rating suitable for its intended use.

For collectors, the 16610LV holds particular appeal due to its limited production run and unique bezel color, distinguishing it from other Submariner Date references. It is a notable variant within the Submariner family, offering a distinct visual identity while maintaining the robust engineering associated with the model. Its place in the lineup is marked by its anniversary significance and its departure from the traditional black bezel.

Specifications

Caliber: 3135

Case: 904L Stainless Steel

Diameter: 40mm

Dial: Black

Water Resist.: 300m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Getting the shade of green right on a dial is incredibly challenging for aesthetic appeal, with specific examples like the Patek Philippe 5270P in platinum being highly lauded for its striking green dial.
It's natural for brands to capitalize on popular trends, similar to the recent hype around steel sports watches. While difficult to prove, the 'green wave' in dials was likely inspired by Rolex's consistent use of its iconic green color.
Green dials can make an otherwise ordinary watch 'pop' and bring life to a design, which is a key reason for their appeal beyond pure marketing. Some collectors appreciated green dials even before they became a widespread trend.
The discussion around green dials unexpectedly segued into the extreme rarity of titanium Patek Philippe wristwatches, with only 13 known pieces in the brand's 183-year history, often created for charity auctions.
The value of ultra-rare pieces, like a titanium Patek Philippe, often lies more in their 'extrinsic value' (rarity, bragging rights, exclusivity) rather than their 'intrinsic value' (material cost or practical utility), influencing collector decisions.
The enjoyment of a watch can be influenced by external factors, such as a model becoming mainstream or widely recognized, leading some collectors to seek out more obscure yet beautifully crafted pieces.

The Discussion

Watchonthewrist

Oct 4, 2022

I think its with every dial color thats popular at some point. We had blue a while back and Salmon last few years (my fav😜) and ofcourse green .

I do like these colorful dials a lot . Here a few of my green dials

patrick_y

Oct 4, 2022

And a beautiful sweater!

You are a tasteful man! Thank you for sharing your green watches. None of which I consider to be "sell outs" neither.

AuHavrePro

Oct 4, 2022

My opinion....

who cares! I love green, we are all the better off for such a large selection of various shades of green.... Cheers, Filip

patrick_y

Oct 4, 2022

Very fair!

I like green too! But all of a sudden, I felt there was an overdose of green watches! But true, a lot of a good thing is not a bad thing!

FabR

Oct 5, 2022

Thanks for a typically thought-provoking post Patrick! Given the front picture, I was almost tempted to move your thread to the Patek forum and, as a likely byproduct, get a chance to clean the latter up after over 6 months....but I will refrain! -)))

On a (slightly) more serious note, deciding which watches are "created green" looks like a challenging job. For sure, once something is popular (be it a color or anything else), many brands want to capitalize on it. It's just the nature of any business. We recently saw an even more extreme version of this phenomenon with the hype around sports watches on a steel bracelet, which have literally saved brands from extinction....and I'm sure we'll see something else again soon! It's totally reasonabl

patrick_y

Oct 5, 2022

Now that's definitely an "organic" green watch!

And I'm not referring to the fish as organic! That's a super cool watch. What a beautiful piece of horology and art combined in one tidy little package.