Grail Watch Collection: Top Picks

sham1 · 2023-12-13T05:17:01Z

Explore the De Bethune DB8 monopusher chronograph, a collector's grail. Discover its unique design, exceptional wearability, and the allure of its clean dial and precise movement.

sham1

WPS member · Independents forum

94 replies20640 views3 photos

In a world of horological complexity, sham1's acquisition of the De Bethune DB8 monopusher chronograph offers a refreshing perspective on what constitutes a 'grail' watch. His detailed account, penned shortly after its launch, highlights the often-overlooked nuances of design, wearability, and the profound personal connection that defines true luxury. This article explores why the DB8, with its understated elegance and technical prowess, resonates so deeply with discerning collectors.

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Over the years, I have been blessed and privileged to own a number of extraordinary watches including a Roger Smith Series 1, a Gronefeld Remontoire, a Daniel Roth Tourbillon and a Patek Phillipe skeleton to name a few. None however have made me tinge with excitement when I set eyes and tried on the De Bethune DB8 monopusher chronograph in Geneva in May, a few months after its launch. At 42.4mm, it can easily be dismissed as too large a watch for many but I always say, it is the shape of the lugs that count most. For this, I must salute Denis Fageollet at De Bethune for creating the beautiful lugs that allow the supple strap to come right down and wrap the wrist perfectly.

So what is the attraction of this watch you might ask? For a start, I love the simple and legible dial. How often do we get to see a chronograph with a dial as clean as this one? In fact, it might even be mistaken for a three handed dress watch! And I just love dress watches! The blued hands are equally as gorgeous and the egg shell dial colour ticks another box. At 9.2mm which is almost unheard of for a monopusher chronograph, this watch is very wearable and the titanium case strikes the right balance for me between lightness and heft making it an excellent daily wearer. And I love the movement which although not as stunning as the Gronefeld Remontoire remains a delight to the eyes.

Approximately ten DB8s will be produced annually and I was fortunate to be allocated one this year and had it shipped to Hong Kong where I collected it last week. What I did not expect was to meet Denis Fageollet who was there to present me my watch! I was genuinely lost for words! Denis was there to launch a limited edition watch for the Hong Kong market. He also kindly autographed a De Bethune book to complete this surreal experience.

After one week of ownership, I can attest that the DB8 keeps excellent time, is a joy to wear and the crown is a delight to wind. Unlike the other watches I had mentioned earlier, this watch is without compromise and has lived up to my expectations as my grail. It is the ultimate for me.

Key Points from the Discussion

The De Bethune DB8's design, particularly its ogival lugs, is a significant draw, allowing the 42.4mm case to wear comfortably on the wrist despite its size. This design element is a hallmark of De Bethune's aesthetic, also seen in models like the DB2 and DB5.
The DB8 is lauded for its 'stealth chronograph' qualities, featuring a remarkably clean dial that could be mistaken for a time-only dress watch, combined with an exceptionally thin profile of 9.2mm for a monopusher chronograph.
The personal experience of meeting Denis Flageollet during the watch's presentation significantly enhanced the ownership experience, underscoring the value of direct interaction with the creators in high-horology collecting.
The author's preference for simple, two or three-handed watches for their reliability makes the complex monopusher chronograph movement of the DB8 an intriguing exception, highlighting its exceptional appeal.
The DB8's accuracy, averaging a one-second-a-day deviation, is an astonishing achievement, placing it among the most precise watches, comparable to those from Roger Smith.
The DB8 is compared to other highly regarded watches like the Patek Philippe 7200 London Edition and the Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakumo, showcasing its position within a collector's definition of watchmaking perfection.

The Discussion

Fastwong

Dec 13, 2023

Congrats! Really love this release and what a cool delivery experience!

sham1

Dec 13, 2023

Thank you Mr Wong!

For me buying a watch is not just about the watch but the pre and post sale experience. I will always treasure this one!

Fastwong

Dec 13, 2023

It should be one of the big benefits of buying from a smaller brand. DB (and now WB) have done an excellent job at this imo.

I got to meet Pierre at an event and he was great too, fun and very down to earth. This chrono was a hit, I hope we see this line with the old school lug design grow.

sham1

Dec 13, 2023

Agreed!

People in the watch industry tend to generally be friendly and humble but meeting an illustrious member is always an occasion for me. I do like the floating lugs on the futuristic watches but these lugs are also definitely well thought of.

mdg

Dec 13, 2023

Huge congratulations....

...half the fun is chasing it, and the other half is getting it : )

sham1

Dec 13, 2023

So true!

To receive an allocation this year was plain lucky since the order books for this year and next were full.