amanico delves into the rich history and modern interpretations of the Girard-Perregaux Esmeralda, a name synonymous with horological excellence since the 19th century. His detailed post, featuring stunning photography, traces the evolution from a legendary pocket watch to contemporary wristwatches, including the 2019 SIHH white gold model. This piece offers a comprehensive look at the Esmeralda's enduring legacy and intricate craftsmanship.
Esmeralda: A magic name given to a pocket watch in the second half of the 19th Century.
A rose gold Tourbillon Chronometer with gold bridges which received superb finishings:
This legend saw the light, once again, in 2016, but in a wrist watch, this time.
The 44 mm big, 14, 55 mm high case was in rose gold, sublime, even for the non colored gold watch I am.
In 2018, Girard-Perregaux went farther in the homage, with the Esmeralda à Secret, a rose gold version with a decorated case this time, and a hinged case back.
If the diameter is the same, it was a tad thicker, due to the hinged case back, with 15, 25 mm.
The work on the case is impressive, even if not my taste, I must say.
But the level of finishings of the movement, especially the three gold bridges and the back, and the possibility for the owner to admire the reflection of the movement in the inside of the hinged case back is a pure feast for the eyes.
I was able and very lucky to have the opportunity to take some pictures of this rare watch:
This year, Girard-Perregaux decided to revisit the Esmeralda, with a white gold version, and the same proportions than the 2016 model ( 44 mm x 14, 55 mm case ).
Colder, more discreet, the white gold Esmeralda is a pure and understated watch.
The white gold bridges are in harmony with the hands and the dial. The wheel and the balance wheel are the only parts which contrast with this monochromatic marvel.
Of course, the level of finishings of the dial and the back are at the same level the the former versions, as it can be expected for a Tourbillon with gold bridges.
And for those who think that an automatic movement cannot compete with a manual winding one, the Esmeralda and all the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillons with gold bridges give a superb demonstration on how wrong they are!
The movement is automatic, here. The Cal GP09400 has a micro rotor you can see at 12 o' clock. It beats at the pace of 21, 600 vibrations per hour and offers a good power reserve of 90 hours.
Now there is one question which is worth being discussed: Is it a sacrilege to have a white metal " Esmeralda ", does it have to be in rose gold, or is it a good thing?
My opinion is that it is a very good thing to have a white metal version. It adds a small touch of modernity and understatement to the Esmeralda.
Now, I would love to see a hinged case back on the white gold Esmeralda. In fact, this is my only regret on that watch. The reflection of the movement in the inside part of the hinged case back is such a feast!
One last word on the size: 44 mm may appear big for some of us, but when you are lucky to handle such a watch, it looks and feels, in the reality, a tad smaller.
One of the marvels of the SIHH, this year.
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best.
Nicolas
