Vintage
Crown comfort provides a comprehensive overview of Girard-Perregaux's manual-wind rectangular watches from the 1990s, a period marked by significant in-house movement development under Gigi Macaluso. This article highlights three distinct references from his personal collection, offering valuable insights into their design, movements, and historical context for collectors interested in this specific era of GP horology.
Friends,
I have here and there shown a bit of my 1990s Girard-Perregaux rectangular watches that are time-only.
It is time to provide an overview of all the rectangular time-only GPs from the 1990s that had a manual wind movement.
If I would include the automatic movements, I would had to expand quite a bit more towards the rectangular Richeville models or the later automatic Vintage 45, but here let’s stay with the manual wind versions.
From my records, I’m aware of 4 different references that fall into that category.
Unfortunately, only 3 are in my collection, but it is always good to have a target.
Here are my 3 manual wind rectangular time-only GPs from the 90s in all their glory:
From left to right: Tank 2532, Vintage 94 and Vintage 45.
Before we look at them individually, some word about the manual movements. After GP was taken over by Gigi Macaluso in the early 90s, one immediate focus was to develop an in-house movement. The focus was on a slim automatic movement, which later became caliber GP 3100.
GP did not have an in-house manual wind caliber at that time. Instead GP had some NOS 1970s Peseux 7001 movements, which they decided to take back into the production line, giving them a nice finish and a modern overhaul.
Most GPs with manual wind movements were based on that caliber.
The very first release was back in 1991, but I’ll keep that for last as this is the gap in my collection.
What is common with all those is that they were only available in precious metal and either as a limited edition or in low production numbers.
Let’s start with the Tank 2532. This goes back to around 1992/93 and looks like an “interpretation” of a Cartier Tank watch.
Case is solid yellow gold and measures 40mm x 25mm which provides a very slim profile. I have seen two different dial versions and mostly yellow gold or rose gold cases. A white gold case also existed.
The dial is either white painted with roman numerals or silver or black with applied indexes.
It doesn’t house the Peseux 7001 as we have in the other manual winds from the 90s, but a smaller round caliber, possibly a Ladies watch caliber. One day I will open the back and take some shots.
Next one up, was the Vintage 94, aka Ref 2550. I had briefly mentioned about the launch of the “Vintage” Collection in 1994, where a museum piece was chosen and re-released in a Limited Edition. The Vintage 94 is based on a tank GP from the 1940s and came with the typical arched plexi, a feature that makes this model stand out from the crowd.
Here the movement is a modified Peseux 7001 with small seconds at 9. The Vintage 94 was released as a limited edition of 203 pieces (203rd anniversary since 1791) with 100 in YG, 50 in RG, 50 in WG and 3 in Pt. Dials are either cream white, silver or black.
In 1995 the series of manual wind rectangular watches ends with the Vintage 1995 as it was called initially.
Also released as a Limited Edition (around 400) with the same manual wind Peseux 7001 as in the Vintage 94. It was modeled after another museum piece, a tank GP from around 1945.
It came in gold only, the usual YG, RG, WG and a mixed WG/RG version. The mixed case pays tribute to the original, which was also available with mixed colours, although gold and steel at that time.
Dials had either applied Arabic numbers or painted roman numerals. Some versions also had indexes and only a 12.
The Vintage 1995 became a huge success and was renamed “Vintage 1945” and continues to be in the collection till this present day.
Ok, so which one is missing?
In 1991, GP had its 200 year anniversary and for the anniversary a watch was issued. It happened to be a rectangular time-only manual wind watch and was called the Girard-Perregaux Anno 1991, Ref 4961.
It was available in solid gold in all colours and dials were either white, black or sunburst blue.
The case of the Anno 1991 is quite similar in shape to the Tank 2532 but much wider.
And this Reference is on my hunt list to complete the manual wind rectangular 90s theme. I really like the blue dial with pink gold case like this one:
So I hope one day I can take a side-by-side shot of all 4 watches and rest assured to see it here at WatchProSite first.
Best,
CC
The Girard-Perregaux reference 2550, known as the "Vintage 1994," is a significant model within the brand's 1990s output, representing a key period for the "Vintage" line. This reference predates the more commonly recognized "Vintage 1996" chronograph, offering a glimpse into the foundational designs of the series. Its introduction in 1994 established an aesthetic that would influence subsequent models, emphasizing classic proportions and a focus on essential timekeeping functions. It stands as an early example of Girard-Perregaux's commitment to reinterpreting historical designs for a contemporary audience.
This reference typically features a case crafted from stainless steel, reflecting a practical yet refined approach to watchmaking. The case diameter is 32mm, a size characteristic of dress watches from the era, providing a comfortable and understated presence on the wrist. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, ensuring reliable timekeeping without manual winding. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, offering scratch resistance and clear legibility. The design prioritizes clarity and a balanced aesthetic, consistent with its vintage-inspired nomenclature.
For collectors, the Vintage 1994 reference 2550 holds interest as an early and less frequently encountered piece from a pivotal Girard-Perregaux collection. It appeals to those who appreciate the brand's output from the 1990s and seek models that represent the genesis of important lines. Its understated design and historical context within the "Vintage" series make it a noteworthy acquisition for a collection focused on the evolution of Girard-Perregaux's modern era. It serves as a foundational piece illustrating the brand's design language before the introduction of more complex complications in the series.
glad you like it. The automatic rectangulars will take me some time, but you can always use the search function of the forum to find some older articles. Blue dial Vintage 45 would be a great catch. CC
The “missing” one is truly nice too. Especially with the blue dial. I sincerely hope you’ll be able to add it in your rectangular collection one day. Best wishes Alkiro
The Vintage 45 is an icon. so I'm with you on the affection. The Anno 1991 is not very hard to find, it will be just a matter of timing and funding, so one day, I'm sure... CC
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