Fumé Dial Watch Collection

jlux · 2021-08-08T12:22:14Z

Explore the captivating world of fumé dials, from H. Moser & Cie.'s pioneering designs to Audemars Piguet Code 11.59, Glashütte Original, and Certina. Discover collector favorites and diverse interpretations of this popular aesthetic.

In this insightful article, jlux explores the resurgence and widespread appeal of fumé (smoked) dials across the luxury watch industry. He highlights how brands like H. Moser & Cie. have popularized this aesthetic, prompting others, including Audemars Piguet, Glashütte Original, Anonimo, and Certina, to integrate these captivating dial variations into their collections. Jlux's original post serves as a vibrant showcase of diverse fumé interpretations, inviting collectors to share their own favorites and observations on this compelling trend.

I do give credit to Moser for making fumé dials popular again but in the meantime quite a few other brands have also added this attractive dial variation to their collections.

The AP Code 11:59,initially criticized for their non-inspired dials have now really come to life with the new fumé dials.

GO,since acquiring their own dial factory have made a quantum leap in the quality and design of their dials : here icy-blue.

A watch for the "italian moments" in life: Anonimo Nautilo Vintage with bronze fumé dial.

A surprising watch from Certina: cool green dial for this special edition of the DS-1 Big Date.

By far one of the best price values on the market.

And if only the technical properties of the movement would count (accuracy,robustness,power reserve and anti-magnetic properties) this one would win hands down against the others!

Anyone else likes these smoked dials?

Best,

Gerard

Key Points from the Discussion

H. Moser & Cie. is widely credited for bringing fumé dials back into the horological spotlight, inspiring many other brands to adopt this distinctive style.
While Moser is a pioneer, some collectors argue that Audemars Piguet's fumé dials, particularly the red variants, achieve an even higher level of aesthetic appeal.
The allure of fumé dials extends to vintage pieces, with specific Grand Seiko references, like the GS 56, being highly sought after for their smoked aesthetic.
Beyond aesthetics, practical features like a 5-day power reserve, as seen in the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic with its grey fumé dial, make these watches ideal for weekend wear.
Collectors appreciate dials with strong character, whether through fumé effects or intricate guilloché, though some still value the understated elegance of high-quality, simple dials.
The discussion showcases a wide array of fumé dials from various brands, including Patek Philippe, Moser, Audemars Piguet, and Grand Seiko, illustrating the breadth of this trend.

The Discussion

Chronometer (aka yacomino)

Aug 8, 2021

I really LOVE the red burgundy AP dial!

jlux

Aug 8, 2021

Yes,this one is really special.

And also a good unisex option as this watch was "stolen" already a few times from my wife!

afaleh

Aug 8, 2021

Love Fume dials

My favorite so far are my Patek 590P and Moser Pioneer Tourbillon, though I suspect once I get my hands on a AP Code it will give them a run for their money. Generally speaking I do love dials with character, weather it’s Fume or intricate guiloche, that said there’s something to be said for a simple dial made of high quality materials

jlux

Aug 8, 2021

The PP and Moser are gorgeous.

And yes,the fumé effect really adds character to the dials.

Aug 8, 2021

I like the GO glacial blue fume dial

Saw it in real life and the colours are very unique.

jlux

Aug 8, 2021

Yes,many different shades in the GO dial.

Key Points from the Discussion

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