Vintage
Reuven Malter challenges modern watch marketing claims by investigating what watches were genuinely worn during the 'golden era' of watchmaking. Through the lens of German politician Franz Josef Strauß's personal collection, Malter provides a fascinating historical account of actual wristwear from the 1950s to the 1970s. This article offers a unique, real-world perspective on vintage watch trends, contrasting them with contemporary brand narratives.
Part I: What is this text about?
Todays watch market is, probably more than ever, filled with companys claiming a „great tradition“ where their watches come from. In a way, you could say retro is the new normal. It doesnt happen very often that our beloved companys really find something new like.
For me, its quite important to have some sort of „tradition“ on my wrist: i just love the idea that a watch similar to mine has been worn 50+ years ago. I was always wondering whether i can trust these marketing-claims though: Is the „Calatrava“ really a watch people were wearing in 1955? The name calatrava probably has not even existed back then. Is the reverso a common watch from 1931 or is it a piece that really was born sometimes in the 80s? Is the moon watch just a moon watch or has it been a watch for everybody back then? Has anoyone in 1942 ever worn a vacheron like the historiques 1942? Probably not.
I wanted to find out what people were really wearing, but it really took me a long time to find a watch lover who has lived in that golden era of watchmaking with a ton of pictures on the internet to find out.
I can tell you that i have found someone who fits that description just perfect:
The german politican Franz Josef Strauß who lived from 1915 till 1988. I dont want you to stop reading because you fall asleep so lets start right now:
Part II: The 50s and 60s
After fighting in world war II, Strauß became a cabinet minister in Germany in 1953. He was responsible for building the nuclear energy in western Germany. This was obviously a very good time for him not just because he bought a Omega Constellation which was presented just a year before in 1952. After my research, i think that this is the watch he wore the entire 50s and 60s. As with all my claims, i naturally have no confirmation, yet that particular „knick-dial“ as a german would call it is quite unique. I think it is great to see the constellation back in the line up, people really should love this more as a real alternative to the ubiquitous datejust.
Strauß was quite intelligent, so he became even more important soon, when he became minister of defence in West-Germany in 1956. Strauß later became a good pilot and maybe that love started here. Anyways, he became more important in politics, so he bought himself a „better“ watch too: The pilot-themed Breitling Navitimer which has (like the constellation) been presented in 1952.
Part III: The 70s
In 1962, Strauß did some „nasty“
things and lost his job. His wife, Marianne, liked it though: He
finally had more time for the family. There are like 3 or 4 pictures
from the early 70s and they all show him beeing with his wife at home
wearing the same watch: A very rare Omega Chronostop that was
intruduced in 1970 (Im not sure if i got this one right, but there
arent many watches with not one or three, but two crowns). This is a
very nice piece and so seventies. All i want for christmas is omega to make a reedition of this piece!
Just a bit later, in c. 1975, we see
him with some similar, yet different watch. For the first time, he is
chosing a german piece (with the great swiss 7750 movement i guess).
Im a bit more sure with this one because i think that the owner of
Sinn has said that Strauß wore that watch. This is my favorite
Strauß-watch because i own two watches with that exact movement.
People tend to think that the 7750 has been with us forever, the
reality is though that there has been quite a long hiatus with that
movement: it really became a common movement as late as in the late
80s or so. He even was wearing this nice piece when he visited the great Oktoberfest in Munich drinking some "Spaten-Braeu".
Part IV: The 80s
From 1987 on, Strauß really became relevant again. Its been tough for him to get back on the national stage, so he bacame the „king of bavaria“ instead, he has been in fact the face of bavaria as their „Ministerpraesident“ for more than a decade. What does this mean? Well, his watches became more expensive than ever!In the early 80s, he really wore his
beloved Speedmaster almost on an daily basis. I think that this
particular model is from 1969, yet it is hard to say when he has
actually bought this piece. He bought a house in France in the 60s
and on one picture you see him wearing his piece on his vacation. The
great thing: I wore this same watch on formal occasions also. Thats
what i call a modern man! It also means that he continued his omega
tradition. That Rolex-Omega battle is 0:3 so far 
In the late 80s, he got another watch. I somehow think that this one is not a Royal Oak, yet the bracelet really looks like one. So for lack of better options im going to say that he bought a quartz-Royal oak c. 1986.
Franz Josef Strauß suddenly died in 1988 when he was hunting (you probably think so but no: i do not mean watch-hunting). When he was dying, he was wearing his Speedmaster. The sons and the daughter of Strauß later gave this watch to one of his best friends Wilfried Scharnagel. I think he still owns this piece, i hope it will be on sale at some point.
Part V: The 90s
I was born in 1989, six month after the death of Franz Josef Strauß. He seems to be quite a antique-guy. Yet his watches do appeal so much to me. I think in 2019 they are as modern as they have ever been. Well done Mr. Strauß!
Information: I have shown some pictures from the internet. I really dont want to offend the owner of these pictures. Let me know if I have used yours.
Today's timepieces are great as well... you just need to look in more unusual places😉
Would love to see more like this. Very interesting to see what watches people wore when a watch was (literally) essential to daily life. My father was born in 1910. He was 45 when I was born so I only remember the watches he wore when he was middle aged or older. There were only two -- first a Tudor that resembled a Submariner (not sure the model name or number). Then, since he was an early adopter and enjoyed new things (including a Chrysler 300, 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix, and 1962 Lincoln Contin
i wish i had memories like the ones you have. I dont and that was the only reason for me to refer to FJS. My granddad started collecting watches in 1992 or so.
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