KIH's report from de GRISOGONO's Tokyo Boutique offers a captivating look at the brand's 2011 collection, including the 'Black Forever' series and a sneak preview of the innovative Otturatore. This article highlights de GRISOGONO's distinctive approach to design and complications, showcasing their unique position in luxury watchmaking.
de GRISOGONO 2011 Collection Cocktail Presentation and Preview of a Yet-to-be Launched Model
I was invited to the private preview cocktail reception at de GRISOGONO's Tokyo Boutique last week.
BLACK has been in de GRISOGONO's DNA, and in 2011 it launches a series of special timepieces entitled collectively "Black Forever" with black cases and bracelets.
1. Novantatre - "93" in English. The index "9" and "3" are emphasized. Automatic, Annual Calendar.
As always, the boutique is in relaxing and welcoming atmosphere.
2. FG One - Automatic, Dual Time with Jumping Hour & Retrograde Second. Retrograde move is pretty quick and smooth.
A few early guests of the Reception
3. Famous Mecchanico dG in all BLACK Edition - Manual Winding, Dual Time with Analog & Mechanical Digital.
Video of the Digital adjustment:
CEO Gerald Roden on the right, and one of the PuristS Guests on the left. In Mr. Roden's hand is the next piece - yet-to-be-launched new piece.
4. Otturatore - "Still testing" according to Mr. Roden, CEO. To be officially launched in September 2011. "Otturatore" means "Shutter" in English and you will know why such name later.
Much more comfortable on wrist than it may look.
What are all these mechanisms for?
What do these gigantic "buttons" next to the crown do?
What is so unique about this piece? Just watch the video.
Yes, Sequential Rotation mechanism of the dial by 90 degrees angular pitch - each 90-degree move shows Moon Phase, Date, Power Reserve, and Small Second sub dial. And, although you may not see it from the display back, this is Automatic - the rotor and the barrel for the watch is INSIDE, sandwiched by the dial and the Rotation mechanism.
Back to the collections:
5. Instrument UNO - de GRISOGONO's first timepiece - Automatic, Dual Time with Big Date
6. Fuso Quadrato - means "Square Zone" in English.
See video of the unique function of the lever on the left side.
Fuso Quadrato - Automatic, Dual Time (when the blades open), with 12-blade diaphragm to open/close the inner dial.
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Now, Mr. Roden, CEO, took the podium and made presentation about the Otturatore.
As mentioned above, the dial rotates 90 degrees and each stop shows different information.
Easier said than done. It has to quickly rotate EXACTLY 90 degrees and can't pass the next stop. The speed of the rotation is 80km/hour, and the acceleration is 9G. And when it stops after exactly 90 degrees at the exact "pitch", the negative acceleration is 7G. The many patents are filed for the mechanism to accumulate such power and to absorb such shock with reliable durability. The project for this one was started when Mr. Roden came on board and it is entirely in-house development. He said "still testing", but seemed certain to launch it this fall.
The big barrel with dG logo is actually for the rotation power. The power for rotation is accumulated in that barrel by pushing several times the button on the lower right of the watch. As you saw on the video, the upper right button releases the power and rotates the dial for exactly 90 degrees.
7. Ring "PROMISE" - lastly but not the least, de GRISOGONO's Charity ring for the Earthquake Relief. The price is JPY99,000 (approx. USD1,200) and the sales goes to the Relief fund. Thank you for your support! Nice gesture from dG. If you are interested, please PM me. There are various sizes for men and women both.
And the box for this Charity Ring is signed by Cheryl Cole.
With Mr. Roden, who came on board as CEO last year, the new dG watch line has been given the big push and momentum with huge potential - I felt when I saw the new Otturatore. As I reported on the last year event article, this brand should be watched going forward.
My Special Thanks to Mr. Roden, CEO of de GRISOGONO, Ms. Itoh, Director and Communication Officer of dG Tokyo for the event.
Thanks.
Ken This message has been edited by KIH on 2011-05-14 05:37:40 This message has been edited by KIH on 2011-05-14 23:24:16 This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-05-17 13:14:36
Key Points from the Discussion
The Otturatore's rotating dial mechanism, which allows the client to choose the display configuration (Moon Phase, Date, Power Reserve, Small Second), is seen as a rational and appealing feature.
The large crown and pushers of the Otturatore, while visually striking, are questioned for their functional necessity, though the author explains they facilitate charging the rotation mechanism.
De GRISOGONO, previously perceived as primarily a jewelry brand, is recognized for its clever watchmaking, particularly with the Otturatore.
The brand's focus on 'animation type of watches' and brilliant concepts is appreciated, with the videos being a key highlight for understanding the mechanisms.
The Otturatore and Meccanico dG are described as stunning timepieces, with the videos being essential for conveying their innovation.
While the aesthetics may not appeal to everyone, the concepts behind de GRISOGONO's watches, especially the Otturatore, are found to be fascinating.
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The Discussion
DA
Davo
May 14, 2011
Great post! Thanks Ken.
Some very cool and original creations there. Looking forward to checking them all out in the near future.
PL
playtime
May 14, 2011
what a riveting collection!
especially the ottuature and the fuso quatrato--the two are a marvel to behold! thanks for sharing Jason
DX
dxboon
May 14, 2011
Fascinating new pieces
Aesthetically, I don't care for the watches that much, but the concepts are absolutely fascinating!! Thanks, Ken. The videos were a real highlight for me. Cheers, Daos
PP
pplater
May 15, 2011
In a 'regular' case...
...that Otturatore would be most enticing, but the crown and pushers are passion killers (for this bunny, anyway). Is there any functional reason why they need to be that large (seems unlikely), or is it a design story? The all-black 'digital', on the other hand.... Great report, Ken, and thank you very much for arranging it for us - especially the videos! Cheers, pplater.
KI
KIH
May 15, 2011
Requires lots of torque...
.. to charge the power to rotate (and initiate the rotation for that matter) and if the button is smaller, your thumb will be a bit sore... If you handle it, you would understand. But of course, the shape of the button is a part of design and I do not deny the design reason. Ken
D-
d-star
May 15, 2011
Enjoyed watching the video of the Otturatore
Thanks !
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