De Bethune DB12: Pink Gold vs. White Gold
Independents

De Bethune DB12: Pink Gold vs. White Gold

By sanro · Apr 7, 2012 · 19 replies
sanro
WPS member · Independents forum
19 replies3252 views12 photos
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Sanro, a devoted De Bethune collector, shares his unique experience of acquiring a second DB12, delving into the nuances of owning the same reference in both pink gold with a champagne dial and white gold with a silver dial. His post offers a rare glimpse into the early De Bethune models, which are less documented but hold a distinct charm compared to the brand's contemporary avant-garde creations. Sanro's detailed comparison highlights the aesthetic differences and personal appeal of each timepiece, providing valuable insights for collectors interested in De Bethune's foundational designs.

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Yep, Double Bision, with "capital B" because its DB...

I am sorry that I am such a lousy photographer, but even so, there is very limited information about the older De Bethune's and so I thought it wouldn't hurt if I did a little report for PuristS.

The reason for the report is...that I got my second DB12! smile

I have posted here before some photographs of my pink gold champagne dial DB12. Until one or two years ago I would not wear any yellow or even pink gold, so it was one big jump for me to dare go for something "so gold" (thanks, Ivanclai, for helping me appreciate the beauty of real-colored gold wink ). It is my favourite amongst all that I now own. The watch is incredibly elegant and the contrast of the blue hands on the yellow dial is one of the key elements.







The guilloche dial was another first for me. I had excluded Breguet from my target list due to this...and look at me now! The DB12 gilloche is wonderfully delicate and discrete. And the railtrack minute markers look also great.

The watch wears very big (I like big, coming from the Paneristi world). It is "only" 42mm but it nearly doesn't have a bezel, so it is all dial and that makes it very noticeable. Especially with the champagne dial...

Having been madly in love with this very-gold DB12 for some time, I came across some pictures of a similar white gold one which began to torture my mind... This new body of temptation caused a big turmoil in my mind because (1) I had never owned the same watch in two different metals and (2) this particular one was coming without original box & papers...those two factors would also be "firsts" for me and kept putting me off for nearly two months. But I kept coming back to this vendor's website time and again...until I decided to give in...





I had some doubts about whether the contrast of the blue hands on the silver dial would look as remarkable as it does on the champagne one. It does look a little different, but it is equally charming and elegant.

And, moreover, the combination of white gold and blue in such a classic design makes this an ab-so-lu-te-ly unbeatable watch when wearing a blue shirt and suit smile







The big date on these watches is perfect for my presbyopia (the month I can barely see) and the date change is fast and crisp, at exactly 12.00h on both watches.

But here comes the only thing I do not like about the DB12: while the month can be changed via a small pusher between the crown and the chronograph reset button, the date does not have a fast change feature via the crown! That means you have to move the time past 12.00h (or more precisely, past 24.00h) and then backwards again to about 20.00h and forward again to 24.00h to change each day of the month... If you are two or three days away from the correct date, not so bad, but if you pick the watch on the 30th of the month and the date window shows "1"... it will take you two or three minutes to reach to the current day.









The action of the chronograph is crisp. The feeling is between the "hard click" you would feel on my PP 5980 (or that of any ETA7750, for that matter) and the butter-like feel of the Lange chronos (sorry for the layman description, not a great technical expert here). I would say it is "sensuous and enjoyable". The reset button feels as if nothing was there, not even butter, as you practically notice no resistance when you push it. Wonderful.









The movement...just fascinating. I have never had the privilege of owning one of the beautiful Lemanias of the sort the PP 5070 or the VC Patrimony Traditionelle boast, but this Venus 175 truly does keep the appearances (and for a more affordable price wink ) I have tried to capture the beauty of the movement, skeletonized, the column wheel, etc on the photo. But I warned you before I do not aspire to a job at the National Geographic magazine...

A disappointment with the white gold version is that there is no sapphire back...











There is very little information on the early De Bethunes around the internet. I guess very few were ever made, but not even that I could find. That is a pity because I would love to be able to share and learn more through interaction with other owners... Magnus Bosse, I believe, had a disk with some info (which I would love to get my hands on, Magnus smile )

Just a couple more photos showing that this DB12 can be as elegant as it can be sporty.

I hope you enjoy my passionate review of this DB! Not very technical, true, but very passionate!












About the Panerai Luminor Ref. PAM1080

The Panerai Luminor PAM1080 is a distinctive interpretation within the Luminor collection, characterized by its specific aesthetic and technical configuration. This reference is notable for its particular dial execution and case finishing, which set it apart from other contemporary Luminor models. It represents a specific period in the brand's production, appealing to collectors who appreciate variations in design and material application within the established Luminor framework.

This Luminor model typically features a robust case construction, consistent with the series' design principles. The movement housed within is engineered for reliability and precision, offering a practical power reserve suitable for daily wear. The crystal protecting the dial is designed for clarity and durability, ensuring legibility and protection for the intricate dial details.

For collectors, the PAM1080 offers a specific point of interest due to its limited availability and unique characteristics. Its appeal lies in its particular combination of elements, which may include subtle differences in dial texture, numeral application, or case treatment compared to more common Luminor references. This makes it a sought-after piece for those assembling a comprehensive collection of Panerai variations.

Specifications

Caliber
OP XI
Case
Titanium
Diameter
44mm
Dial
Brown
Water Resist.
300m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
SI
sidneyc
Apr 8, 2012
Double beauty!

The early DB's have this special classic yet avant-garde charm that the current generation of DB models don't have. The modern family on the other hand are technical marvels and have the now-signature space-age aesthetics. The 2 era's show how much talent these guys have! I would love to have one from each era but could only settle with one DB15, which I love dearly. Congratulations on the double beauty!

SA
sanro
Apr 8, 2012
DB15...

...is certainly on my list too! Congrats on owning such a beauty!

OZ
Oztimelord
Apr 8, 2012
Thanks for sharing!

These DB's are the foundation of what De Bethune is today. It is a shame they removed the older models from their website. Regards Rene

SA
sanro
Apr 8, 2012
I too feel as if DB wanted to get rid of its past...

...when I don't feel there is anything to feel ashamed of. Even if the two "eras" are distinctly different. Maybe that is why it is sooo difficult to find information about these first watches...

QU
Quan
Apr 8, 2012
Huge Congrats

Both are beatiful

MA
Mark in Paris
Apr 8, 2012
I fully share your feelings here

Both are beautiful but I think I have a little preference for your new WG version (huge congratz by the way ! ). Even with this classic watch we can feel the pure and modern influence of DB. Especially with this picture : little figures, the symetry etc .... I would be very curious to see it in the flesh. Bravo again sanro ! Best, Mark

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