Custom Watch Dial Design: First Attempt

sham1 · 2022-03-24T00:56:39Z

Explore sham1's journey designing a custom Sartory Billard SB05. Discover the challenges and rewards of bespoke watchmaking, from dial choices to movement engraving.

sham1

WPS member · Independents forum

50 replies9590 views3 photos

In this insightful article, sham1, a passionate collector of independent watch brands, shares his journey of designing a bespoke Sartory Billard SB05. His detailed account highlights the intricate choices involved in personalizing a timepiece, from selecting Chinese numerals over traditional Breguet to pairing a salmon guilloché dial with a dark blue aventurine hour ring. Sham1's experience underscores the unique appeal of working with independent watchmakers to create a truly one-of-a-kind horological piece.

Ok, ok, so it was not quite my first attempt but it was the end product after being given so many options when ordering the SB05 from Sartory Billard. I have never ordered a watch with Chinese numerals but I felt that my favourite Breguet numerals that were being offered were not as attractive as these Chinese numerals. The choice of guilloche and the colour of the guilloche were also confusing because Armand Billard (the owner and the one man show at Sartory Billard) offers an attractive mirror polished seconds counter but I decided that the Comblemine made dial should take advantage of its guilloche prowess. I have chosen dark blue aventurine for the hour ring which seems to contrast well against the salmon guilloche. I had actually debated between a blue and salmon guilloche initially but I felt the contrast of the salmon dial and the blue aventurine hour ring worked a lot better, a colour combination that Armand endorsed wholeheartedly! As I love my watches to be as light as possible, I have requested for a titanium case and finally a calf suede strap in dark blue will complete my watch which should arrive before the end of the year.

The SB05 measures 38.5mm (45.5mm from lug to lug) with a height of 8.5mm. It has a manual wound movement which is made by La Joux-Perret who are well known for their chronographs. I like the look of this movement and one is allowed to have it personally engraved up to 18 letters. The hands of the watch is another detail I find very appealing and the attention to detail even extends to the buckle with the Sartory Billard logo. The brand only makes piece uniques which is an added bonus. They are based in France. I had started communicating with Armand slightly over a year ago and in typical slow motion Sham fashion, I finally decided to place an order yesterday.

Thank you all for reading.

Not quite a Voutilainen but good enough fort me!

Photo borrowed from SJX with thanks.

A buckle with a difference - no sharp edges

Key Points from the Discussion

The limited availability of independent watch brands in certain regions, like Malaysia, often necessitates ordering watches based solely on photographs, introducing an element of risk regarding fit and aesthetic appeal in person.
Relying on virtual images for watch purchases can be misleading, as the actual appearance and how a watch suits one's skin tone can differ significantly in reality. It's often best to try on a watch before committing to a purchase.
The extensive customization options offered by Sartory Billard, including case material, dial elements, and movement engraving, can make the design process a challenging yet rewarding endeavor, leading to a truly personalized timepiece.
Another collector's experience with the Sartory Billard SB05 confirms a typical wait time of around 12 months for a custom order and praises the feather-light feel of the polished titanium case.
The unique hands of the Sartory Billard SB05, a design element attributed to Armand Billard, are noted for their character and intricate detail, despite some expert opinions suggesting they might be too elaborate.
The combination of a dark blue aventurine ring with a salmon guilloché center is particularly praised for its aesthetic appeal and harmonious proportions.

The Discussion

AuHavrePro

Mar 24, 2022

Subtle and original. I look forward to seeing candid pics when you get it!! Cheers, Filip

sham1

Mar 24, 2022

Anyone who knows me will know that I am anything but cool!! But thanks Filip for your kind comments. I wish I could fast forward time to nine months from now!

enjoythemusic

Mar 24, 2022

What material is the outer ring? Copper center.

Motty

Mar 24, 2022

This is a real different master piece, which no one will have ever I like the creativity

sham1

Mar 24, 2022

I am always looking for something different but while retaining its classic values.

RahulR

Mar 24, 2022

Truly stunning Sham. I particularly like the gold and dark aventurine combination. Size is perfect at 38.5. Hands are lovely, buckle truly unique. And I can see why you chose the Chinese characters instead of Breguet. I too prefer the guilloche over the mirror polish finish in this case! Can't wait to see the final result on your wrist Rahul

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