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Emmanuel, known as quattro, brings to light the often-overlooked Chopard Luna D'Oro references 1206 and 1165. This article delves into the intricate details of these 1990s retrograde date moonphase perpetual calendars, showcasing their design and the JLC 888-based caliber. Emmanuel's meticulous presentation, complete with stunning photography, invites collectors to appreciate these pre-L.U.C. Chopard complications.
Let's have a look at the beautiful photos of this overlooked
36 mm Retrograde Date Moonphase Perpetual Calendar with
screw down crown produced
circa 1990.
The watch is powered by a calibre based on the JLC 888 with additional module on top.
The watch comes in two references (1206 & 1165), which I haven't been able to tell apart from each other.
Best, Emmanuel
A/ Ref. 1206
1/ PLATINUM (limited to
100 pieces)
2/ YELLOW GOLD
credit: watch brothers London
B/ REF. 1165
1/ YELLOW GOLD
2/ WHITE GOLD 
credit: ineichen (1-2) & antiquorum (3-4)
Key Points from the Discussion
- The dial texture, described as 'grainy,' significantly enhances the aesthetic appeal of the Luna D'Oro, particularly in the platinum variant.
- There is a strong community preference for the platinum version of the Luna D'Oro, often citing its sharper appearance and the aesthetic of the case back engraving.
- A minor design critique suggests that the 'Automatic' text on the dial could be omitted or curved to improve the overall dial symmetry.
- The calendar pushers on the Luna D'Oro appear raised, prompting a question about whether a stylus is still required for setting the perpetual calendar.
- The author notes that Chopard's pre-L.U.C. models, like the Luna D'Oro, generally receive less attention in the collector community, making their discovery through dedicated research particularly rewarding.
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