Review
Soyuz introduces his Chopard L.U.C St. Moritz Chronograph Ref. 8386, a watch he describes as a 'forgotten reference' that embodies the spirit of integrated bracelet sports watches. His detailed review covers the watch's design, movement, and unique aesthetic, offering a compelling argument for its place among iconic chronographs. This post serves as a valuable resource for collectors seeking alternatives to more mainstream luxury sports watches.
I was looking for a new chronograph, something that satisfied me... after many years of collection it's getting more complicated...
During my life of watches enthusiast I've had so many chronographs (Daytona, speed, chronomaster, a couple of vintage best calibers...) But not yet an FP chronograph. I wanted to fill the gap...
I like so much the Hublot Big Bang and AP royal Oak style, but I prefer normal size watches...and at the moment that watches is not through my budget. So I was thinking to pass and to looking for other models with an FP caliber...like Blancpain Air Command or Omega Broad Arrow...but I wasn't sure and I decided to hold on...
...until one day casually I discover that reference and it was exactly what I had in my mind. And I'll be honest that I have never considered Chopard before.
But there was another problem ... That watch is really hard to find!!!
Here in Italy is totally unknown and in Europe only some dealers have the white version, but I was in love for the blue. So...when I found one, even if it was in Japan, I did not hesitate to pull the trigger!
And finally on my wrist!
Chopard St Moritz Chronograph ref 8386
In that watch we can feel the "Genta's touch" (GG works many time in Chopard)
Case: 38mm Steel/Steel with an "Celtic cross" shape bezel with 8 screws, steel caseback with central sapphire crystal to show the movement.The size and shape of the case (excluding the bezel) remembers too the 1970's Zenith El Primero ref. A384 : the 3 counter config and date window between 4 and 5 gives it something of vintage zenith chronographs... So I think, if you want to give it an touch of vintage style, that is the best with an Gay Frères style bracelet.
Dial: nicely finished and special metallic blue colour who change shade second inclination. Applied steel polish indexes, lumed on the scale.
Crown: screwdown crown signed LUC
WR: 10ATM
Movement: finally got the Frédéric Piguet 1185 !! This movement is awesome. Great looking and feeling with very smooth pushers. Best caliber I owned IMHO.
Band/buckle: black alligator strap with signed buckle. The buckle shape follow the case design and it is really comfortable. I've found on the web the config with bracelet: the original bracelet remembers a Vacheron overseas, but is not easy to find and I don't know if I prefer with or without it.
Final consideration:
- If you like AP/Hublot style but you have an 1/3 budget
- If you like normal size watches with an little touch of vintage style
- if you want an Genta on your wrist
- If you hate fakes and hommages
- if you like to "think different"
The answer is Chopard St Moritz.
Thanks for looking.
Hope you enjoy!
Best regards
Andrea
The Zenith El Primero reference A384 is notable for being among the earliest models to house the brand's high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. Introduced in 1969, it presented a distinctive aesthetic that set it apart from many of its contemporaries, characterized by its tonneau-shaped case and a dial layout that became a signature for the El Primero line. This reference is recognized for its historical significance in the development of automatic chronographs.
The A384 features a stainless steel case, measuring 37mm in diameter. It is powered by the Zenith El Primero caliber 3019 PHC, an integrated automatic column-wheel chronograph movement operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, providing a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The watch typically utilized an acrylic crystal, contributing to its vintage appeal and period-correct specifications.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the foundational pieces of the El Primero series and early automatic chronographs. Its design, while unique, is a clear precursor to later El Primero models, making it a key piece for understanding the evolution of the line. The A384 is valued for its originality and its place in watchmaking history.
Been looking at one of these for a while, so your review has been very helpful. Definitely an interesting piece
Thanks for appreciate it
Multi-level dials can make or break a piece IMO. Chopard has done a nice job by varying the depth in different areas. I like the shape of the bezel though I'm not sure how I feel about the paired screws. Chopard is between a rock and a hard place on this issue. AP has 8-screws and Hublot with 6. Odd numbers look weird. 4 is too few and more than 8 is too many. Hublot MDM tried 12 back in the day, but that was way too many. So where do you go from there?
Thanks for appreciate it. Screws layout is cool IMHO. And I love the effect of Polished screws heads inside the brushed bezel. It remember too an evolution of the Breitling "Knights" on chronomat bezels...
You’re absolutely right about it. I remember I saw mainly of them in white and not with a chrono function. Yours is in really good state. Great find after such a hunt. Enjoy and wear it in the best of your health. Best wishes Alkiro
Thanks for your kindness and for appreciate it!
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