Cartier Watch Reference Guide

Mach · 2023-11-04T23:58:48Z

Explore the Cartier Santos-Dumont XL limited editions with stone dials. Mach shares his experience declining an 'application piece' and community insights on rarity, design, and collector preferences.

Mach

WPS member · Cartier forum

22 replies4836 views6 photos

Mach's recent experience with a Cartier 'application piece' offers a fascinating glimpse into the evolving world of luxury watch acquisition. His detailed account of the limited edition Santos-Dumont XL models, featuring unique stone dials and Breguet-style hands, provides valuable insight into Cartier's strategy for exclusive releases. This thread explores the nuances of collector preference versus brand allocation, highlighting the importance of personal taste even when presented with highly sought-after timepieces.

This was one of three Santos-Dumont XL pieces that were released ‘under the radar’ during this year’s Watches and Wonders:

These were all precious metals: yellow gold, platinum, and rose gold. Each one of these featured Roman numerals on the dial cut directly dumortierite, jasper, and jade, respectively:

I was especially attracted to the Breguet-styled hands:

These are limited editions pieces with 200 for each edition:

When I spoke with the local boutique, I learned a new term: ‘application piece.’ The boutique had to submit an application on my behalf advocating for the piece:

I made sure to clarify that I didn’t care that these are LEs. I also expressed concern not be able to see one in the flesh until now. Finally, I told them I’m primarily a stainless steel collector. Fortunately, we were aligned before they submitted the application.

Don’t get me wrong, I really like this. But deep down inside, I wished it was stainless steel with blued hands.

Note: I only saws these mentioned on Fratello’s and Hodinkee’s sites. These are still not on Cartier’s site (not my wrist shot):

Key Points from the Discussion

The 'application piece' process for these limited edition Santos-Dumont XL models is a real phenomenon, with boutiques needing to advocate for clients, even for those who didn't explicitly request the specific reference.
Some collectors find the precious metal, limited edition Santos-Dumont XL models to be too expensive, undersized, or featuring a sub-par movement, leading them to decline allocations even after expressing initial interest.
A stainless steel Santos-Dumont XL with blued hands is available as a regular production model, offering an alternative for collectors who prefer steel over precious metals.
The perceived rarity of 200-piece limited editions and the 'application piece' process can be a point of contention for some collectors, questioning if such exclusivity is truly warranted.
The bold Roman numerals on these limited edition Santos-Dumont XL models are considered less refined by some compared to regular production models, with a preference for earlier limited editions like the 2018 releases featuring classic plane engravings.
Even boutique sales associates were initially unaware of these 'under the radar' limited edition pieces, requiring clients to provide external articles to confirm their existence and initiate the application process.

The Discussion

ArmisT

Nov 5, 2023

but isn’t there already the available steel Santos Dumont XL, which is regular production? It’s not exactly the same, but is this not to your liking? Source: Cartier website

hoseachandra

Nov 5, 2023

The roman numerals are too bold and less refined than the regular models. I think the best limited santos dumont are the 2018 issues (the ones with classic plane engraved on the caseback).

Clueless_Collector

Nov 5, 2023

They submitted your apllication even you didn’t ask for it?? My AD can’t even get these….i did ask to out my name on the Santos Dumont skeleton YG, Tank Normale Pt and or YG and in the end, got allocated the 3rd option, sigh. Like yourself, I declined because I felt it is too rich, smallish in size and movement is sub-par. Also I have to pay in full without an estimated delivery time which is not favorable.

amanico

Nov 5, 2023

Come on, 200 pieces each, application piece... Is that THIS rare that they need to go for an application before allocation? They can keep it. Merci. Best, Nicolas

VinnieD

Nov 5, 2023

No doubt it is a technical tour de force to cut such thin numerals out of stone though

Mach

Nov 5, 2023

I just wished the hands were a different color to provide some contrast against the dial.

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