Innovation
SJX offers an exclusive look at Cartier's groundbreaking ID One concept watch, captured in its first-ever wristshots. This article also provides a rare glimpse into the Cartier Collection in Geneva, highlighting the brand's rich heritage alongside its commitment to future innovation. SJX's report underscores Cartier's unique position as both a historic jeweler and a forward-thinking watchmaker.
This is the first ever wristshot of the ID One, anywhere.
The ID One is of course Cartier's concept watch that is lubrication free and not necessary to regulate (click here to read an in-depth explanation of the ID One). Beyond its remarkable innovations, the ID One is itself very attractive in the metal. It is lightweight with a very distinctive aesthetic that has subtle hints that it is a Cartier.
At 46 mm the ID One is identical in dimensions to the Ballon Bleu tourbillon. Though it's a large watch the dark colour of the case and dial make it appear smaller. Its lightweight titanium-niobium alloy case allows it to sit comfortably on the wrist as well.
The ID One looks and feels a lot cooler than I thought it would. If it were made for sale - which it will not - it would sell well. Importantly, it is not just a pretty face, the ID One contains developments that might one day become tremendously significant in watchmaking.
And since I can't bear to withhold much from this forum, this is the second ever wristshot of the ID One.
And yesterday, I was privileged to visit Collection Cartier in Geneva, where Cartier's historical collection is housed in an anonymous looking building. Comprising about 1000 pieces of watches, clocks, jewellery and objets d'art. It is probably the largest collection of Cartier items in the world.
Everything on display was incredible, ranging from mystery clocks to brilliantly enamelled items.
A standout was the minute repeater Tortue from the 1920s with an EWC movement (which used a LeCoultre ebauche). Only one has ever been sold at auction and it went for several hundred thousand francs. Though the chimes were too fast paced, the clarity and volume of the repeater was superb.
Surprisingly the minute repeater is adequately sized to be wearable today, unlike the Tortue chronograph monopoussoir (above, right) is too small by today's standards. Interesting it was not the only watch that is reasonably sized by modern standards. An 8-days Tank from the 1930s also had fairly modern proportions.
And in between the pair of Tortue watches above is a pair of rare, vintage Santos watches.
Also on shown was an assortment of pocket watches, including a grande complication, a minute repeater with jumping hour, two mystery pocket watches (one contemporary and the other vintage), an early automatic pocket watch with power reserve display and an ultra-slim 24-hour pocket watch. I particularly liked the 24-hour pocket watch. It is wonderfully slim and elegant, yet eccentric thanks to its time display.
The stark contrast between the ID One and the vintage Cartier watches serve to reinforce the multi-faceted identity of Cartier. It is a jeweller with a storied history, in watchmaking, as well as a watchmaker with a deep committment to innovation. Very few other companies, be they watchmakers or jewellers, can illustrate their past and future so vividly.
And I finish with a photo of an incredible watch, for the sole reason that it was disassembled and reassembled (save for the tourbillon regulator) by the moderator of this forum. Here it is midway through its destruction.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-08 02:17:18 This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-09 09:16:35Incredible coverage. Am pleasantly surprised to see the ID One for the first time in a non-press picture. Not surprisingly, it's looking to be a super cool watch begging to be done commercially. Now have a question or two from an all-thumbs guy aka from someone who has yet to partake in a watch destruction class. Is it just for color preference or is watch assembly usually done on a seemingly rubberized mat other than the felt texture of those watch trays? And secondly, the strap on the ID One i
I am sort of sure this question must be on the tip of all our tongues...and the answer will never be that simple. But...I am sure we just want a "off the hip" shot at the target. Forget classifications into budget ranges etc etc...just take two shots. 2 choices. Current models or even upcoming ones...which two would you suggest for "non ultra wealthy" consumers? Note..consumers. Not collectors. But..what the hell...take 2 shots. I really really like Cartier after your post SJX!!! I think all the
The mat is not rubberised. It's hard, textured plastic on a wood bench (fusion). Strap for ID One is a nylon like material, not alcantara. If by fixed lugs you mean an integrated strap that has a limited degree of motion, then no, the strap can fit even a small wrist, just like the Ballon Bleu tourbillon. - SJX
Cartier makes an enormous range of watches. Personally I'd go for the Santos Galbee XL. It's entry level but iconic in design. If one buys a Cartier it is easy to choose one of the brand's classic shapes like Tank and Santos. An iconic Cartier shape is easy to determine, it's the one that is most commonly copied and faked. The watch, despite being entry level is also well made and finished. In fact the case work is better than many other brands in the price class, with a complex case shape conta
I agree with that, the Santos Galbée is the best entry level the company ever had and this last version has so much improved in dial and case design. Very comfortable and all round watch. Very interesting report SJX, especially this one, your visit to Cartier Collection must have been something like a kid in a candy store. I have never seen is and only have seen some of the historic models at the travelling exhibitions around the world. One day I hope to seeing the historique Tank Asymetrique. B
SJX, Thanks for this series of photo reports. I have been driven past the outside of Cartier assembly plant many times, either on the way to, or back from, the many factories, suppliers and Manufactures surrounding La Chaux-de-Fonds. We've never had time during our PuristS on Tours to stop at the big Cartier 'box' It assembles so many watches that it must suck up a lot of local resources and manpower. BTW, that Cartier ID One seems difficult to photograph with the curved reflections. Regards, MT
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