Review
WHL explores the Cartier Calibre de Cartier 38mm, a significant departure from the original 42mm model. This article delves into how Cartier adapted its masculine Calibre line to a smaller size, maintaining its in-house movement while subtly refining its aesthetic for broader appeal. WHL's observations highlight the visual impact of the size reduction and the nuanced dial changes that distinguish this reference.
I think of Cartier’s Calibre de Cartier watch as the collection of watches from Cartier, other than the expensive pieces in the Fine Watchmaking family, as being exclusively for men. Born from the start with a masculine presence and size (42 mm), it has expanded in two directions: complicated with a chronograph, and “hardened” with the excellent diver version. I was slightly surprised when I saw a new, smaller version at a retailer recently.
The diameter of the Calibre 38 is reduced 4 mm from the original, which doesn’t sound like much but visually is quite dramatic. The movement is the same in-house caliber 1904 MC as in the original model, and it is also visible through the sapphire case back.
The thickness is also the same, as you can see in this profile photo:
This gives it the effect of being thick and chunky, not unlike a 40 mm Panerai Luminor compared to a 44 mm model with the same thickness.
The major changes with the Calibre 38 compared with the 42 is with the dial. The new design tones down some of the bolder strokes that are present in the 42. The Roman numbers are uniform in size (no outsize XII as in the 42), and they continue all the way around the dial, not switching “California-style” to index markers below the 9-3 axis. Also, there is no luminous material on the dial or hands, rather, they are classic Cartier blued steel.
Another dramatic change is the use of a single date aperture at 3 o’clock, rather than the elongated 3 date aperture on the 42. (A good design decision, otherwise the aperture would take up too much real estate on this smaller dial, messing up the proportions.)
In general, the Caliber 38 is more classical Cartier in spirit than the Calibre 42, which I can see appealing to some people who appreciate those aspects of Cartier, though there is something about the boldness of the original Calibre that breaks away from past Cartier efforts and is something that I find appealing, beyond my preference for its larger size.
While still marketed to men, I wonder if Cartier might be seeking out a female audience with the Calibre 38. I’d like to hear feedback on this front from both the male and female readers.
The Calibre 38 is valued at $6450, materially less than the $7150 of the 42 mm model.
Bill
The Longines Legend Diver reference 7150 is an early iteration of the modern Legend Diver series, distinguished by its smaller case size and a dial design that closely echoes its vintage inspiration. This reference is notable for its internal rotating bezel, operated by a second crown, a characteristic feature of compressor-style dive watches. It represents a faithful reinterpretation of a historical Longines diver, capturing the aesthetic and functional elements that define the original.
This particular reference features a stainless steel case, typically measuring around 38mm in diameter, a more compact size compared to later versions. It houses an automatic movement, likely based on an ETA caliber, providing reliable timekeeping. The watch is fitted with a domed crystal, contributing to its vintage appearance and offering a clear view of the dial.
For collectors, the 7150 is appealing due to its adherence to historical dimensions and design cues, making it a desirable piece for those who prefer smaller, more period-correct watches. Its position as an early re-edition within the Legend Diver lineage also adds to its collectibility, often sought after by enthusiasts of vintage-inspired dive watches.
I will eat my shoes if that's the case, but I can assure you that Cartier targeted this watch for men! It is made for men who prefer a more wearable watch. Besides that the whole trend is going back to smaller watches. This watch has all the lines and details to be a real masculine piece and I wonder what kind of lady would prefer to wear this watch, when there are gorgeous Ballon Bleu and Clé models in the collection. Cartier is a company with taste after all. GEO
Love it that Cartier made a smaller size version Maybe ladies can wear this but I still feel it is more suited for males. It has a rather masculine Cartier look to me Cheers Robin
prior to this, the Calibre Diver was very compelling but the size didn't work too well on my wrist. This one is definitely at a sweet spot!
they target both... I think that the concept of Men's or Ladies' watches is not so obvious now. Even if I'm used to wear a Diver, the 38mm Calibre looks very fine on my wrist. For me, a successful approach. Fx
And for the pics with both versions! It is a watch I highly appreciate. It is balanced and it doesn't look its powerful design despite its case reduction. About the targetted customers, for me, it is typically a men's/ladies' watch. I was very convinced with it on the wrist... Fx
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