Complications
SJX's 2010 post revisits the Cartier Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon, a timepiece that, despite initial lukewarm reception, proved to be a pivotal launch for Cartier's High Watchmaking collection. This article explores how this model, first seen at SIHH 2008, laid the groundwork for Cartier's rapid ascent in haute horlogerie, challenging perceptions and establishing a distinct aesthetic. It's a look back at a watch that, while perhaps not Cartier's most complex tourbillon, was instrumental in redefining the brand's horological standing.
Cartier presented the first model of its High Watchmaking collection, the Ballon Bleu flying tourbillon, at SIHH 2008. It was the first watch with the now distinct aesthetic of multi-layered ruthenium and silver dial that characterises the High Watchmaking collection.
At the time, observers were not particularly impressed with the tourbillon. Neither was I, admittedly. It was yet another tourbillon. And while the movement was well finished, it was not entirely original, being based on a Roger Dubuis calibre, albeit thoroughly reworked and improved.
Then Cartier unleashed the rest of the High Watchmaking collection in 2009, with several more models for 2010. In those three SIHH fairs Cartier has totally changed public perception of its high horology. Many are surprised at how fast and far Cartier has come, even industry insiders – I received some interesting comments in response to my factory report (click here to see it) from industry folk. At the very least there is a grudging respect for what Cartier has accomplished.
Cartier now offers more complicated tourbillons, like the Astrotourbillon and the Rotonde de Cartier skeleton tourbillon, both of which have more merit than the flying tourbillon in terms of technical achievement. But the original Ballon Bleu flying tourbillon, as well as the Tank Americaine and Santos 100, sell well, largely because they are represent a strong proposition at a particular price point.
If you look at the flying tourbillon closely, it has charm. The finishing on the movement is Geneva Seal quality, followed in spirit and not just to the letter. Decoration like Cotes de Geneva and anglage is carefully done, while less apparent details like bevelled spokes of the wheels are present as well.
Visually the movement is also attractive, combining Genevoise style elements like the elegant spring for the click of the ratchet with the Cartier “C” in the bridges and tourbillon cage. And if you look closely at the anti-shock spring of the cap jewel you will see a double “C”.
The only criticism I can make is that all three watches, the Ballon Bleu, Tank Americaine and Santos 100, are extremely large and the movement is small. The Ballon Bleu is 46 mm wide, the Tank Americaine is 35.8 x 52 mm and the Santos is 46.5 x 54.9 mm. Cartier, however, deserves credit for designing the dials and cases such that the tourbillon neither looks lost in a large dial nor uncomfortably close to the centre.
Even if it has been surpassed in complexity or innovation by other Cartier timepieces, the flying tourbillon has its place. Many years into the future when the history of Cartier is written, this will be remembered as the first of many.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-07-24 22:11:32 This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-08-03 22:56:48
The Cartier Santos 100 was introduced in 2004 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the original Santos-Dumont watch. It represents a contemporary interpretation of the historic pilot's watch, featuring a larger and more robust case design compared to its predecessors. This model positioned itself as a sportier, more modern offering within the Santos collection, appealing to collectors seeking a bolder presence on the wrist while retaining the iconic square aesthetic.
The Santos 100 typically features a stainless steel or precious metal case, often with a brushed finish and polished bezel screws. Case dimensions vary, but common sizes include a large model around 51mm x 41mm. It is powered by an automatic mechanical movement, often a modified ETA caliber, providing reliable timekeeping. The crystal is usually sapphire, and water resistance is generally rated for daily wear.
For collectors, the Santos 100 is notable for its blend of heritage design with modern proportions and construction. It marked a significant update to the Santos line, moving towards a more substantial and contemporary aesthetic. Its robust build and versatile design made it a popular choice, bridging the gap between Cartier's dressier offerings and more overtly sporty watches.
Some would like, and some wouldn't like them, but it's a trusted and evident fact that the new Haute Horlogery timepieces from Cartier have the best that the watch industry can offer technologically speaking, with the sweet touch Cartier puts in everything they do. The new line of Tourbillons are awesome, I specially love the Tank Americaine in WG. So cool. The new Santos Dumont Skeleton really got all my attention when I saw it, what an ultra-cool timepiece. Love it. Happy for them. Vte
And has to be seen in person. The ballon bleu tourbillon is a large watch, but fits nicely on smaller wrists. Here's a few more shots from a visit to the Cartier boutique at Wynn Las Vegas: Regards, ED-209
Love the shot of the domed crystal profile. - SJX
The Ballon bleu tourbillon has certainly started 'the' new era for Cartier. Very new looks and an extreme high level of finishing. Last week I was at Place Vendome in Paris and saw this watch in a white gold diamond version, it looked absolutely amazing. Sure, a tourbillon is often seen as the 'hard to afford' very high end in watchmaking, but when compared to other brands, these new tourbillons offer very good value for money. I was quite impressed when I handled the Ballon bleu tourbillon and
this together with the Astrotourbi and the jump hour really repositions Cartier as a serious ocntender imo. Still have some ways to go but if ever there was trouble looming on the horizon for the other manufactures, Cartier could be it. Thanks also to JX for the coverage. He and Kong seem to be putting out so much good coverage. Shall christian the both of you the Purist Twins! Good job you 2!
the ballon bleu tourby looks to me to be most "balanced" of the lot. and it fits surprisingly well one the wrist, not too thick and yet the visual enough. correct me if i am wrong, it is also the most "affordable" of all the carier tourbys?
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