Bulgari Baselworld 2012 Report: Daniel Roth, Genta

Ornatus-Mundi · 2012-03-22T13:29:34Z

Explore Bulgari's Baselworld 2012 novelties. Ornatus-Mundi reports on the integration of Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, new Serpenti, BVLGARI BVLGARI, and haute horlogerie pieces, showcasing Bulgari's watchmaking evolution.

Ornatus-Mundi

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Ornatus-Mundi's comprehensive Baselworld 2012 report on Bulgari offers a deep dive into the brand's strategic evolution in fine watchmaking. The article meticulously details Bulgari's integration of Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, showcasing how these acquisitions enhance Bulgari's watchmaking expertise while maintaining distinct brand identities.

Dear All:

we begin our series of Baselworld 2012 reports with the Bulgari company.

Bulgari, formerly known as a jewellery/luxury brand made serious foray into the world of fine watches. It started already in 1977 with the launch of the BVLGARI BVLGARI watch which has received a cult status amongst collectors. Only 5 years later, in 1982, Bulgari Time, a company dedicated to watchmaking, was created in Neuchâtel.

From these beginnings Bulgari pursued the aim of becoming more and more independent in watchmaking terms, acquiring Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta as well as component companies such as Cadrans Design, a producer of dials for high-end watches, and Prestige d’Or, a specialist in the production of metal watchstraps.

In 2009 Bulgari could present its first manufacture watch with proprietary movement and all components completely produced and assembled in-house, the Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, named after the founder of the company. For a presentation please click here.

Novelties – we saw several pieces from their Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta, BVLGARI BVLGARI, as well as Serpenti collections.

We will start with the first two lines which deserve special attention as both have been recently acquired and are continuously integrated within the entire Bulgari universe. We were eager to learn if and how Bulgari intends to further develop them.

We asked Guido Terreni, Managing Director of Bulgari’s watch business unit, whether Bulgari intends to further develop the two lines or whether they want to slowly reduce their visibility (and eventually abandon them). Mr Terreni assured us that Bulgari is committed to further developing the two lines. He added that Bulgari acquired much needed watchmaking expertise with those two brands. He conceded that this is seen as a valuable complement to the firm’s mastery of interpreting contemporary styles and trends (the Italian roots, sic!), it adds the credible content. With both Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta Bulgari aims to achieve a balanced level of skills in design as well as in expertise.

More concretely, Giudo Terreni suggests that with Genta the imminent task is to add balance to the watch and to reduce the overdesign, whereas the Roth watches need a more contemporary touch.

In other words: Bulgari aims to create synergies and cross-fertilsation by combining the design and execution with the watchmaking skills.

Let’s take a closer look on the novelties and see how this turns out in practice.

A first hint at what would follow was already prominently placed adjacent to the entrance lobby of the impressive two-story Bulgari booth. Two captivating kinetic/acoustic installations drew us there, the first one representing a tonewood arrangement (-> can we expect a repeating watch?)…

… and the second one being a mesmerising mechanical sculpture of breathing, illuminated bellows. Its movements resembled - in pace and rhythm - the dance of the Papillon hands…

And now, let's start!

This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2012-03-24 09:23:03 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-04-24 08:16:29

Key Points from the Discussion

Bulgari's strategy for Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta is evolution, not revolution, focusing on subtle improvements and expansions rather than radical changes, which builds customer confidence.
The Serpenti collection demonstrates Bulgari's multidisciplinary creative mastery, blending jewelry and watchmaking skills to interpret the iconic serpent theme.
The Gerald Genta Octo Maserati is a co-branding effort that aims to balance the watch's design and reduce overdesign, integrating Genta's iconic case with Bulgari's vision.
The BVLGARI BVLGARI Diagono Ceramic features a ceramic bezel, showcasing Bulgari's precision in engraving and rejuvenating a timeless collection with modern materials.
The Bulgari PuristS 10th Edition Diagono X-Pro, a special boutique-only edition, highlights a convergence in strap design with other models, suggesting a consistent aesthetic direction.
The smokey grey color and beveled edges of the movement in the Bulgari Carillon Tourbillon Repeater are particularly striking, making it a standout piece despite the increasing commonality of complex complications.

The Discussion

Ornatus-Mundi

Mar 22, 2012

Daniel Roth watches are characterised by their distinct case shape. In a 2003 description of the first iteration of the Papillon (more on that later!) Alberto Shileo writes on the occasion of the presentation of the original Papillon: “Enough has certainly been said over time about the unique Daniel Roth case shape, which has been from the very beginning one of the symbols of the brand (all boxes and papers from that time are thus shaped). As far as I can tell from what I have seen, this has bee

Ornatus-Mundi

Mar 22, 2012

This Collection dates back to the late famed watch designer bearing this name, Gerald Genta . Famous mostly for this iconic case design such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oa k, and later the Mickey Mouse watches . Currently, the Octo Collection still bears his name. NOVELTIES: Gerald Genta Octo Maserati Octo Maserati The Octo case design was one of the last creations before Gerald Genta was integrated into the Bulgari company. The new version is a co-branding version with the sports car manufactu

Ornatus-Mundi

Mar 22, 2012

The collection that first comes to mind when talking about Bulgari watches. Established since 1977! NOVELTIES: BVLGARI BVLGARI Diagono Ceramic Diagono Ceramic As the name already hints, ceramics are a major feature of this year’s rejuvenation of this timeless collection. Most prominent beneficiary is the bezel, formerly made with rubber and now crafted from brushed black ceramics. Note how precise the BVLGARI BVLGARI logo is engraved (quite a feat Bulgari rightfully is proud of, considering how

Ornatus-Mundi

Mar 22, 2012

The Serpenti collection is first and foremost a feminine jewelry collection, but it is much more than that. It is also a demonstration of skills acquired by the luxury house: “The interpretation of the serpent theme bears eloquent witness to the multidisciplinary creative mastery of Bulgary, which displays its amazing diversity of talents […].” (Press Kit) The Serpenti is an utmost original watch which has seen quite some evolution. Certainly not for every day use, but the spar

Ornatus-Mundi

Mar 22, 2012

One of the first appointments of this Basel fair, and it already gave us quite the full message: evolution instead of revolution. Notwithstanding the Carillon, Bulgari revisited their classics and added subtle improvements and/or expansions. The company played its full strength of expertise and resisted the desire to show off something spectacular. In our view a most welcome change. It gives customers the confidence that today’s watch is not obsolete tomorrow, and it also allows a better appreci

AnthonyTsai

Mar 22, 2012

If the rubber strap is as comfortable as the Diagono X-Pro rubber strap (looks like similar construction), it'll make the Endurer an even more comfortable watch to wear on the wrist. And those who like bracelets will be happy to see a bracelet available for the Endurer as well. Cheers, Anthony

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