blu MT3 Majesty Three-Speed Tourbillon

MTF recounts an exclusive evening with Bernhard Lederer of blu in Singapore, offering a deep dive into the brand's philosophy and the intricate mechanics of the MT3 Majesty Three-Speed Tourbillon. This report highlights Lederer's dedication to in-house manufacturing and meticulous hand-finishing, providing rare insights into independent watchmaking.

Background

Bernhard Lederer learned his trade in Germany but relocated 7 years ago to Switzerland and formed blu – ‘Bernhard Lederer Uhrmacher’ with his wife, Ewa. (Uhrmacher=Watchmaker in German) 

Now the company is called ‘Bernhard Lederer Universe’.

The flagship of the blu line is the MT3 or Majesty Three-Speed Tourbillon. The half-flying tourbillon has the lowest cage mass of all the tourbillon types. More of the mainspring energy can be used for maintaining high balance wheel amplitude, as less is needed to turn the cage. This MT3 tourbillon movement is made entirely in the blu workshop.  The only parts coming from out-of-house are: the sapphire glass, jewels, mainspring and hairspring.

Bernhard took the trouble to explain how he hand finishes the hands and then carefully does the blue-ing by slow heating. The different hands have different thickness of metal so are not "batch-heated" like screws. They need to evenly reach 290 degrees Celsius.

The hand polishing of the 2 facets on the minute hand takes 5 hours....... I cannot remember if that quoted time was for each facet or both! Either way, it seemed a long time.

I think this is one of the most "effort-less looking" but complicated watches available. You don't have to take only my word for it because at Asia’s largest Watch and Jewelry Fair organized in December 2007 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, a pre-production MT3 was awarded the Starhill Gallery Award for “Most Revered Watch 2007 in terms of design and technological innovation“.

Prototype MT3: Note that the hands are not of production standard of finish

Prototype MT3

MT3 movement back

Ewa & Bernhard Lederer, Dr Bernard Cheong (Starhill Awards Judge), Frank Low (Luxury Concepts)

At least 5 moderators of PuristS family of websites from USA, Malaysia and Singapore were at the Starhill Gallery Awards 2007: click here

7 August 2008: Il Lido Ristorante, Singapore

An Evening with blu

Kelvin Lim of Dickson Watch started the welcome speeches; note the hand gesture for later........

Frank Low of Luxury Concepts shared his views about the watches and showed the secret blu hand gesture

blu Open Planet

Bernhard Lederer and a fervent lady PuristS' fan; I guess they are wearing blu watches

Production grade MT3; note the superb hand-finished and blued hand with crisp faceting

My.....that feels good.....and by golly....it is good.

Bernhard makes the watches but Ewa Lederer sells the blu concept

Both these ladies love Bernhard for different reasons

The WFED (Wine, Food & other Epicurean Delights) section

 Red wine of the evening

scaloppia di fegato grasso d'anatra con albicocche arrostite e riduzzione al moscato

pan roasted goose liver with apricots and moscato wine sauce

riccioli all'uovo con vongole, limone candito e olive disidrate

riccioli pasta with clams, candied lemon and dried black olives

filetto di manzo con patata ratte, indivia belga e salsa mostardata

beef tenderloin with ratte potato, endive and mustard sauce

tortino caldo di cioccolato "monorigine saint dominque" con composta di mele verdi

"monorigine saint dominque" chocolate molten lava cake with green apple sauce

sorbetto del limone

lemon sorbet

Thanks to Bernhard & Ewa Lederer , Luxury Concepts and Dickson Watch for an educational and enjoyable evening with horology friends, watches and WFED elements.

Regards,

MTF