Bespoke Watch Straps Collection Guide — WatchProSite Forum Digest

takman · 2022-02-07T00:51:47Z

Explore the world of bespoke watch straps with takman, focusing on spring bar hole modification for the perfect curved strap fit. Learn about customization, its impact on watch aesthetics, and collector considerations.

takman

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

22 replies2062 views3 photos

In a quest for the perfect strap fit, WatchProSite contributor takman delves into the nuanced world of bespoke watch straps and the often-overlooked detail of spring bar hole positioning. His exploration highlights how subtle modifications can dramatically alter a watch's aesthetic, sparking a discussion on customization that challenges traditional collector sensibilities. takman's insights provide a valuable perspective for anyone considering enhancing their watch's appearance through custom strap solutions.

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Have any of you considered/followed through with modifying the spring bar holes on your watch? Why would you ever do something like that you ask? Well, let me elaborate... You see, if you want your bespoke strap to have curved ends, simply curving the ends will not make the strap hug the watch. The holes for the spring bar actually have to be positioned closer to the case. Let me share some photos to illustrate:

This is a standard straight strap

Here is the same watch with a curved strap, notice the space between the strap and the case is quite obvious due to the position of the spring bar holes

Here is an image showing two spring bar holes, one for straight end straps, the other for curved straps. By positioning the holes closer to the case you can achieve a ”cleaner" and in my opinion more bespoke look.

So, dearest forum... has anyone tried to (gasp) modify their watch to accept curved end straps? What was the process like or did your watchmaker just look at you funny? Do you even like the idea of curved straps or have I just ventured way to deep into customization?

Photo credits to Delugs strap company.

Best,

Chris

Key Points from the Discussion

Achieving a 'tight' curved strap fit often necessitates repositioning spring bar holes closer to the watch case, as simply curving the strap ends will still leave a gap.
The thickness of the leather at the spring bar end can also be adjusted to create more space or a tighter fit between the strap and the case, offering an alternative to modifying the watch itself.
Modifying spring bar holes should ideally be performed by the watch manufacturer or during a routine service when the movement is already uncased, to ensure precision and minimize risk.
While some modifications are subtle, even small changes like repositioning spring bar holes constitute a case modification, which can impact a watch's originality and collectibility.
Curved end straps can be beneficial for certain watches, such as Rolex models, as they can prevent the strap leather from rubbing against and being 'eaten up' by the watch case.

The Discussion

Bill

Feb 7, 2022

Pretty daring approach. I would have thought custom strap rather than case mod.

takman

Feb 7, 2022

Yes, for now I am sticking to custom straps but was surprised when I came across this new-to-me info as I was going to order curved straps at first

only5402

Feb 7, 2022

interesting to follow yor thoughts, but think about: modification will cost the value of the watchcase additional dismantling costs 😬 regards Stephan

takman

Feb 7, 2022

Ah yes the cost

That is another variable unknown to me but I would probably pose this question during a routine service where the movement might need to be uncased anyway. I think I’d only trust the manufacturer to perform such work though.

only5402

Feb 7, 2022

the word "cost" in my post perhabs was a bid to harmless - it is the depreciation by modification - regards Stephan

takman

Feb 7, 2022

I understand now…

I may have flown too close to the sun on this one and went for a deep deep dive… I almost lost my purist head on this one! Thank you for the feedback

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