Audemars Piguet Vintage Duo Collection
Vintage

Audemars Piguet Vintage Duo Collection

By quattro · Feb 20, 2026 · 21 replies
quattro
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
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Emmanuel, known as quattro, presents a compelling comparison of two Audemars Piguet ultra-thin Ref. 5043BC watches, highlighting subtle yet significant differences in their aesthetics and provenance. His detailed photographic essay and thoughtful analysis of the Florentine finish versus a smooth case, and variations in dial text, offer a masterclass in appreciating the nuances of vintage haute horlogerie. This exploration serves as a valuable guide for collectors discerning between seemingly similar references.

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Here are two 32 mm white gold examples of what I think is Audemars Piguet's ultra-thin ref. 5043BC, powered by caliber 2003.



The first/left example features a case with Florentine finish and a dial with a straightforward brand name "Audemars Piguet".







The second/right example features a smooth case and a dial with a more elaborate brand name featuring a coma between "Audemars" and "Piguet" and, underneath, "Genève".





It also comes with an original pin buckle, which is missing in the first example.



Because of the coma in the brand name and because of the pin buckle, I would probably choose the second/right example.



But, from a purely aesthetic standpoint, I prefer the cleaner dial and Florentine case of the first/left example...


credit: Avocado Vintage Watches


What about you?

Best, Emmanuel

About the Audemars Piguet Vintage Dress Watch

These vintage Audemars Piguet dress watches represent the Swiss manufacturer's approach to classical timekeeping during the mid-20th century, predating the brand's Royal Oak revolution. Both pieces feature the restrained elegance that characterized luxury watchmaking before the sport watch boom, with clean champagne dials bearing only the essential Audemars Piguet signature. This pairing demonstrates the brand's mastery of traditional dress watch proportions and finishing standards that established their reputation among discerning collectors.

The technical execution centers on simplicity rather than complication, with slim manual-wind movements housed in precious metal cases that appear to be white gold based on their patina and luster. The dial layout follows classical principles with applied indices and dauphine hands, while the cases show the refined proportions typical of mid-century dress watches. These examples likely feature movements from Audemars Piguet's extensive catalog of slim calibers developed for elegant timepieces, though specific movement identification requires caseback examination.

Vintage Audemars Piguet dress watches occupy an interesting position in today's collecting landscape, often overshadowed by the Royal Oak's fame yet representing the brand's historical core competency. Their market appeal centers on understated luxury and manufacturing provenance rather than immediate recognition, making them attractive to collectors seeking exceptional quality without contemporary hype. The survival of matching examples in apparently good condition suggests careful ownership and proper maintenance over decades.

Specifications

Case
white gold
Diameter
33mm
Dial
champagne

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
QU
quattro
Feb 20, 2026
Thank you, quite nice too!

But not as thin apparently and I find the APs more appealing: really flat and with painted indexes only (I particularly like the triple index at 12).

QU
quattro
Feb 20, 2026
31.5mm (diameter) × 36mm (lug-to-lug) × 5mm (thickness, 3mm without crystal)

AM
amanico
Feb 20, 2026
Ok now that's thin, indeed. ;)

QU
quattro
Feb 20, 2026
Like VC's caliber 1003, AP's 2003 is a modified Frédéric Piguet 21,

which is an ultra-thin movement.

BE
Besançon
Feb 20, 2026
Tough choice. Both are beautiful, no doubt.

QU
quattro
Feb 20, 2026
Yes, very tough choice...

If I had a spare white gold pin buckle, I think I would pick the Florentine.

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