Arnold & Son: Royal and Instrument Collections

DonCorson · 2014-07-21T10:05:38Z

DonCorson's visit to Arnold & Son showcases the Royal and Instrument collections, including HMS1, Perpetual Moon, and UTTE Tourbillon. Explore movements and designs.

DonCorson

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

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DonCorson's visit to Arnold & Son offers an insightful look into the brand's two distinct collections, Royal and Instrument, and their historical inspirations. This article provides a detailed overview of several key models, highlighting the technical prowess and aesthetic considerations that define Arnold & Son's contemporary watchmaking. Readers gain a deeper understanding of the brand's heritage and innovative approach.

Visiting Arnold and Son, the Watches

Last week I posted a few pictures of my visit to La Joux-Perret. We saw the manufacturing capabilities of LJP and some of the finished watch heads that I saw in the factory. Check out my visit report here if you haven't seen it yet. Let's now move on to see some finished watches from their two collections.
Arnold and Son has two collections, the Royal collection, inspired by the watches that Arnold made for George III and the members of the royal court, and the Instrument collection, inspired by the watches Arnold made later in his life with his son that sought highest chronometric accuracy allowing him to be an offical supplier to the Royal Navy.

In the Royal collection we find the HMS1 small seconds watches with the in-house AS1001 movement. This double barrel movement has 90 hours power reserve. Please note that this is a prototype movement, the production units have correctly blued screws, the slots are not silver as we see here.

The HM Perpetual Moon has a very large moon aperture as you can see. A second moon phase display on the back is to aid when setting the moon phase.

The TB Victory celebrates one of Englands famous battle ships with a gold appliqué on the dial.

HMS Victory – Cannons Ablaze, Lord Nelson's Flagship Takes On The French Fleet, part of the Royal collection the dials of the Victory Set watches are cast in silver from masters engraved by Arnold & Sons in-house engraver.

The UTTE Beagle adds a dial with a hand painted miniature commemorating the HMS Beagle to the ultra-thin UTTE torubillon movement.

The UTTE Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Escapement watch is a mere 8.34mm thick. The movement itself, the A&S8200 is only 2.97mm thick, including the tourbillon! This makes for a very elegant watch on the wrist.

From the East India Company Set this watch again has a hand painted minature on the dial. The automatic movement with dead seconds complication is a A&S6103. (Again a prototype movement)

The DBS Equation Sidereal is a tribute to Arnold's siderial time watches. The movement has two separate movements (would, however, together), one regulated for siderial time, the other for "normal" mean time.

The dial side true beat DSTB watch, a novelty for BaselWorld 2014. This dead beat seconds has the dead beat mechanism on the dial side. Note the counterweight on the dead beat lever is in the form of an anchor from the Arnold & Son logo.

The TE8 tourbillon. Wow!

From the Instrument collection the CTB, an automatic chronograph with dead beat seconds. Both the running seconds, jumping once a second, and the chrono seconds hand ar placed at the center of the dial making a very interesting effect when the chrono is on as the running seconds jumps and the chrono seconds is a trotteuse.

The TEC1, announced at BaselWorld 2014 part of the Royal Collection.
Automatic tourbillon colomn wheel chronograph. The tourbillon runs at 288000 vibrations a hour, a very high speed for a tourbillon and the wath has a power reserve of 55 hours.

To not forget one of A&S's most stunning time pieces here are again some pictures of the Time Pyramid from my last post.

Key Points from the Discussion

Arnold & Son, now owned by Citizen, is making impressive strides in high-end luxury watchmaking, rapidly producing technically sophisticated in-house movements and expanding its collection, despite some designs not appealing to all tastes.
The brand has significantly reinvented its identity, with some designs reminiscent of iconic pieces from other brands, while others are highly complex and well-executed but may not resonate with everyone.
The Perpetual Moon, particularly the cream dial version, was praised for its balanced colors and amazing moonphase details, though its 42mm size was considered slightly large for some wrists.
While the blue dial of the Perpetual Moon is gorgeous, the white-dialed version is considered more versatile and timeless for long-term wear, despite the large moon display potentially making it less 'low-key-dressy'.
Considering Arnold & Son produces only about 500 watches annually, with perhaps 30-50 Perpetual Moon watches in gold, their retail pricing is justified and cannot be compared to brands with much higher production volumes.
The dead-beat seconds chronograph was highlighted as a unique and elegant complication within the collection.

The Discussion

Dave G

Jul 21, 2014

I have viewed several of their pieces here in Hong Kong and they are really special.

Goldenlutin

Jul 22, 2014

I especially appreciate the dead beat seconds chronograph. Unique and so elegant. Thanks for the post Don! Best regards, Goldenlutin

amanico

Jul 22, 2014

I rediscover the brand, through your pics and text... Impressed by the level of finish. Best, and thanks! Nicolas

Arie - Mr Orange

Jul 22, 2014

I'm so into that perpetual moon! Which one is nicer? The blue dialed one or the white dialed one? Has to be in rose gold IMO.

Goldenlutin

Jul 22, 2014

It is a difficult question because both are beautiful while being quite different. I think the blue dial is the most stunning and spectacular choice but maybe not for everyday use. The cream dial is a little bite more classic and you will probably wear it more often. Best, Goldenlutin

docsnov

Jul 22, 2014

The symmetry of the dial with the visibility of the gears is fantastic. Another relatively new watch that you did not show in this post is the TB88 which I really like as well. Am I correct in that they are now owned by a big Japanese company (Citizen?) and this is their foray or foothold in the high end luxury watch market? If so they are doing a great job, their new movements are impressive and the level of finishing looks impressive as well. I don't like all their designs, just personal taste

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