New Perpetual Calendar & Tourbillon from Chopard

Jan 20, 2025,12:57 PM
 

L.U.C Lunar One

An historical L.U.C complication: the perpetual calendar with astronomical moon phase in reshaped aesthetic

 

 

Since being the first calendar and astronomycomplication presented by Chopard Manufacture in 2005, the L.U.C Lunar One model has remained the only timepiece in its category equipped with precision orbital moon-phase display featuring arotating window. The mechanical self-winding L.U.C Calibre 96.13-L with perpetual calendar and astronomical moon-phase function – achieving arare degree of accuracy guaranteeing a single day's difference in 122 years – powers two new timepieces whose profile has been reshaped in line with the latest L.U.C aesthetic. Framed by a 40.5 mm-diameter case in ethical 18-carat gold, the hand-guilloché dial demonstrating artisanal expertise is distinguished by highly legible indications, while an ingenious interchangeable strap system offers a variety of styles. While the movement’s accuracy is chronometer-certified, the high-quality finishing of these two L.U.C Lunar One models has also earned them Poinçon de Genève recognition. 

 

 

L.U.C Calibre 96.13-L: a mere one-day difference in 122 years – astronomical accuracy 

In 2005, by introducing a complication for the first time in an evolution of its founding L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L, Chopard Manufacture presented one of its milestones: alarge-date perpetual calendar with a degree of astronomical precision to which only a handful of Manufactures can lay claim

 

The L.U.C Lunar One timepiece equipped with the L.U.C 96.13.L chronometer-certified movement illustrates the trajectory of the moon with remarkable accuracy. Its perpetual calendar with orbital moon phases clearly indicates the date, day, month and leap years. It also features an additional 24-hour scale. The night star rotates around the small seconds axis, hence the term ‘orbital’. The movement represents the sky as seen from the Northern Hemisphere with the Big Dipper; as well as from the Southern Hemisphere with the Southern Cross. Calibrated by Chopard's finest watchmaking Artisans, this display boasts astronomical precisionwith a time difference of just 57.2 seconds between two moons, it will take 122 years for it to show a one-day discrepancywith the real moon. Only then will it need to be adjusted. 

Reflecting Chopard Manufacture's perpetual quest for slenderness, the L.U.C Lunar One timepiece is also one of the very few self-winding perpetual calendars to feature a micro-rotor. The latter is made of solid gold andintegrated into the movement thickness, thereby slimming it down and enabling it to be admired through the sapphire crystal pane fitted on the case-back. Engraved with the L.U.C logo and finely guilloché, this micro-rotor heralds the extreme degree of finishing lavished on L.U.C Calibre 96.13-L – of which all 355 components are produced, hand-decorated and assembled in the Manufacture's workshops. Thanks to the two stacked barrels of Chopard Twin technology, the L.U.C Lunar One model is also endowed with a 65-hour power reserve.

 


The Poinçon de Genève: a guarantee of excellence

The L.U.C Lunar One testifies to the finest craftsmanship cultivated by Chopard. Several hundred made-to-measure tools are involved in reworking and hand-trimming each rough-cut component, before manually decorating it using traditional skills – even if it is destined to remain concealed beneath a bridge. Each creation is successively enhanced by chamfering, satin-brushing, polishing, circular graining and Côtes de Genève patterns, before being individually tested and hand-assembled in the workshops. The prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark to which Chopard has been loyal for many years attests to this degree of artisanal skill and meticulous care. This aesthetic and technical certification is validated by an independent body and governed by a law instated by the Canton of Geneva. It imposes peerless criteria of excellence encompassing the case and movement, including theirstructure, appearance and precision. 

 


slimmer, reshaped case

While these two new timepieces are joining the L.U.C Lunar One family, they differ from their predecessors with a slimmer case, subtly reshaped in line with the L.U.C collection’s latest aesthetic codesAt 40.5 millimetres in diameter and 11.6 millimetres thick, they fit smoothly on any wrist. Crafted in ethical 18-carat white or rose gold, the case features a bassine shape, meaning its base is narrower than its domed, polished bezel. Reflecting craftsmanship inspired by the pocket watches that emerged from Louis-Ulysse Chopard’s creative heritage in the 19th century, this distinctive profile creates an impressive sense of aesthetic refinement.

This new case with its vertical satin-brushed sides is paired with a curved, fluted crown that is not only elegant but also easy to handle. The slightly domed sapphire crystal perfectly matches the curves of the bezel, giving the watch a rounded, harmonious profile. Another sign of fine craftsmanship is that the lugs are made separately before being welded to the case to ensure a perfect aesthetic result. This reshaped designmakes the L.U.C Lunar One a timeless object for watch connoisseurs, and paves the way for the aesthetics of future timepieces in the collection.

 

 

The hand-guilloché dial: a strong commitment tocraftsmanship

Since the first L.U.C 1860 timepiece was presented in 1997, the L.U.C models’ dials have perpetuated a legacy reflecting the purest watchmaking tradition, in which the art of guilloché has become a collection signature. Having teetered on the brink of extinction during the 1990s, this age-old craft has survived thanks to the efforts of Manufactures such as Chopard, which still owns a few rare guilloché lathes with which specialised artisans guide their burins over fine metal surfaces to adorn them with repeating patterns accurate to a tenth of a millimetre.

 

Meticulous work is required to ensure that each dial intended for these new L.U.C Lunar one models – available in a choice of deep blue or salmon pink colours – is adorned with a sunburst guilloché pattern radiatingfrom the moon-phase indicator at 6 o'clock, the focal point of this timepiece.

 

One particularly distinctive feature of the L.U.C Lunar One model is the large twin-aperture date window at 12 o'clock. A concentric snailed pattern runs around the dial peripherybelow the minutes track. The Dauphine fuséehands and herringbone-type hour-markers are in white or rose gold matching the case. The two perpetual calendar counters are also snailed, with the exception of the central section of the one located at 9 o'clock. The latter is dedicated to the 24-hour indicator, which also serves as a day/night display. The upper part (day) bears a radiating pattern symbolising the presence of the Sun, while the lower section is engraved with ahorizontal motif evoking the serenity of the night. Ultimately, the arrangement of each indication is both aesthetically pleasing and perfectly legible.

 

 

Interchangeable straps: a combination for every occasion

For the first time in the Chopard collections, this new model is equipped with an interchangeable strap system enabling its owner to vary styles and adapt to different outfits, occasions and activities. This extremely convenient new system is designed for quick, tool-free swap-outs via the case middle and clasp. The aim is to guarantee the user-friendliness and wearer comfort that are core to the Chopard philosophy. In addition to the two alligator leather and calfskin straps supplied with the timepiece, each Chopard boutique will offer an assortment of additional straps in a variety of textures and colours.

 


The L.U.C collection: watchmaking excellence

In 1997, Chopard Manufacture launched the first watch to emerge from its watchmaking workshops: the L.U.C 1860, equipped with the L.U.C 96.01-L movement. Since then, through the L.U.C collection, it has accumulated mastery of all the major horological complications. Between Fleurier and Geneva, Chopard Manufacture conceives, develops, produces, assembles, decorates and certifies all its timepieces. Thanks to Karl-Friedrich Scheufele's commitment to watchmaking tradition combined with technical innovation, the Manufacture maintains a high level of finishing by preserving numerous artistic crafts and skills. 
















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Comments: view entire thread 

What great news!

 
By: TeutonicCarFan : January 20th, 2025-13:07
I always liked the LUC complicated pieces but they were too big. At around 40mm by 11.5 seems great.

Applause at first, but then looking at the specs I'm a little disappointed.

 
By: patrick_y : January 20th, 2025-18:43
First, I applaud the design is so much better than the previous one. Then I applaud a second time, it's now got the Geneva Seal. But then I start looking at the statistics... And I see two big problems; The price is $30,000 higher than the previous LUC Pe... 

💯

 
By: TeutonicCarFan : January 20th, 2025-19:29
I thought the old one was even thicker. I guess it appears so. They should have done thinner maybe it’s their barrel layout? I didn’t see the price until now, yea 30k is a big jump especially since LUC PC don’t necessarily jump off the shelves. I think th... 

You are comparing Perpetual Twin with the new Lunar One

 
By: loujo : January 21st, 2025-06:22
. Perpetual Twin does not have the moon phase and the movement 96.22L doesn’t have Geneva seal. It can also be had in SS. Previous Lunar One shares the same movement as the new one 96.13L that comes with the Geneva seal.

Right. I'm aware of the Geneva seal part.

 
By: patrick_y : January 22nd, 2025-23:17
I didn't explicitly mention the lunar moon phase part - but good point. The previous perpetual calendar could even be had in steel for a very palatable $28,000 USD. A strong value.

On photos, I find a lot to love here, except the insane price.

 
By: quattro : January 20th, 2025-21:53
One detail I particularly like is the new larger crown: wonderful. And the only detail I’m not fond of concerns the design of the new Dauphine-fusée hands, with the V shape at the jonction of the Dauphine and fusée part (instead of the structure in the sh...  

These look so much nicer without the large Roman numerals, finally!

 
By: Clueless_Collector : January 21st, 2025-04:36
I’m quite surprised by the various comments above, quoting the high price point. If we’re referring to perpetual calendar, isn’t a grand complication perpetual calendar from such a brand be in that range? I’m comparing Patek Philippe VC and Langematik to ... 

You are right!

 
By: patrick_y : January 22nd, 2025-23:24
The Lunar One with Geneva Seal is in that quality range as Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. However, the Chopard LUC series has a wider variance; you have some "mid-high quality level" models that are much less expensive, and you have some "Geneva-... 

The last gen Lunar One with the same movement and bigger case (more gold :) ) was $70k.

 
By: loujo : January 23rd, 2025-05:49
So a $15k increase is pretty significant. the problem is that the cost of these watches will likely be less than 50% on second-hand market, so it doesn't do any good to the perceived value of a new one.