Hands on review of the Chopard L.U.C All-in-One 2018

Jan 08, 2019,14:23 PM
 

For many years, Chopard has established itself as one of the most technically creative and innovative Swiss Manufactures thanks to a very large catalog of complications available in the L.U.C collection. In 2010, to celebrate its 150th anniversary, Chopard presented its most complicated watch, the L.U.C All-in-One, whose name was ideally chosen. Indeed this watch was a demonstration of the know-how of the Manufacture by gathering many complications displayed on both sides of the case. The problem with "demonstrative" watches is that they are often imposing and ultimately not very elegant, looking more like pizzas with a lot of toppings than refined pieces. Chopard was able to avoid this pitfall thanks to the dimensions that are all acceptable for such a type of watch (a 46mm diameter for a thickness of 18.5mm) and to the optimal readability due to a clever lay-out of displays. Moreover, the dial of the L.U.C All-in-One was little different from that of a L.U.C Perpetual Tourbillon.

Chopard presented an evolution of the LUC All-in-One at the 2018 edition of Baselworld which allowed me to see it again and to appreciate one more time the skills of the Manufacture. The new version differs from its predecessor only from the aesthetic point of view because for the rest, case, movement, organization of displays, everything remains the same. It must be said that the watch was well born.



The L.U.C All-in-One is in the rare category of watches with displays on both sides. It has been designed in a very practical way. The dial includes the time indication, the calendar data and the tourbillon. The back of the watch is dedicated to astronomical functions and the power reserve indicator. I therefore very much appreciate this clear separation between useful data on a daily basis and the ones what I would consider as more poetic.

It is dial side that are the main aesthetic changes. The Roman numerals of the original model have been replaced by fine and long indexes that perfectly accompany the guilloche of the dial. This guilloche, already present on the first model, brings a nice dynamic on the dial like sunrays that emanate from the big date. The replacement of the Roman numerals by the indexes allows the dial to breathe better and to be, in my opinion, more harmonious. The other modification consists of the deletion of the creation date of Chopard which was housed in a rectangular area under the big date and which is henceforth replaced by the more discreet inscription of "chronometer".



The strengths of the dial of the L.U.C All-in-One are reaffirmed. The watch is very readable and especially the complication of the perpetual calendar finds its meaning thanks to the use of a large date at the top of the dial. The other displays (days, months, leap years, day & night) are clearly positioned. The tourbillon and the small seconds generously occupy the lower area of ​​the dial. Regarding the tourbillon, I particularly appreciate its cage but I must admit that I am less seduced by the shape of the bridge. I would have appreciated a more discreet bridge. The other element I like less is the shape of the hands even if it brings originality while being typical of the Chopard style. It is obviously just a matter of taste.

Anyway, the dial is obviously very well finished, respecting the most demanding standards of the Manufacture. The applied indexes and the guilloche clearly contribute to the perceived quality. Its color, in the pink gold version, is rather original because it is a verdigris dial that goes well with the case. The platinum version has a blue dial.


The back of the watch shares the same approach as that of the visible part. The dial dedicated to the astronomical functions is perfectly  and organized in a very rational way. I really like the lay-out of indicators around the beautiful display  of the astronomical orbital moonphases. Thus, the indicators of sunrise and sunset are a model of its kind. At the top of the dial is located the power reserve display which is mandatory in the context of the L.U.C All-in-One. Indeed, the handwind caliber which animates it has a power reserve of more than 7 days thanks to its four barrels. Moreover, the theoretical power reserve is higher (more than 210 hours) but Chopard, for reasons of efficiency, prefers to communicate on the optimal operating time.

Given the distribution of functions on both sides of the watch, L.U.C 05.01-L is not visible. It represents obviously the best of Chopard both from the technical point of view as that of the finishes (the movement respects the criteria of the Geneva Seal). Its performances are already high level. The 7-day power reserve is reached within a high frequency (4hz) while taking into account the multiple complications to animate. Moreover, despite this long power reserve, the caliber is chronometer certified. All these elements show the quality of design and the excellence of the realization.


The 2018 version of the L.U.C All-in-One is available in pink gold and platinum in limited editions of 10 pieces each at a price of 360,000 and 374,000 euros. The sensation on the wrist is similar to that of the original version of 2010 since the watch comes with the same case dimensions. The L.U.C All-in-One is a heavy watch, thick in the absolute but the curved lugs and the folding clasp allow to position it well on the wrist. Among the very complicated watches on the market, the L.U.C All-in-One seems to me to be one of the easiest to wear.

The L.U.C All-in-One is for me a very beautiful flag bearer of the capabilities of the Chopard Manufacture. It is a complex watch but at the same time it is easy to live with it thanks to its excellent readability and clever design. The slight aesthetic changes made in 2018 are welcome and make the dial more airy and pleasant. The L.U.C All-in-One is a convincing reminder that Chopard is one of the most skilled Manufactures in Switzerland.


Pros:
+ a cleverly designed watch
+ the clarity of the displays
+ the performances of the caliber L.U.C 05.01-L
+ the acceptable dimensions for a watch of this type


Cons:
- the tourbillon bridge, too visually present
- the shape of the main hands (but it is a matter of taste!)

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