amanico[JLC Moderator]
338386
Chopard LUC Traveler One. Some thoughts.
Jan 15, 2023,13:00 PM
If you like world time watches, you immediately have in mind Patek Philippe, Girard Perregaux, which both offered their modern vision in year 2000, with the 5110 and the WW TC, respectively. Jaeger Lecoultre came a bit after, circa 2005 with the Extreme World Chronograph, and Vacheron a few years later, with the Patrimony World Time. In 2014 came the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum, and last nut not least, the Jaeger Lecoultre came again, in 2015, with the Geophysic Universal Time as a " World Time Only ", I mean without chronograph.
Other brands launched their vision of the world time, such as F. Constant, Breitling, and Omega.
And those who are also paying some attention to Independents will rightly mention Andersen Genève.
As for my own journey into World Time watches, I started with the Girard Perregaux WW TC, in white gold, as soon as 2002. I sold it in 2005, as I got my dream, the Patek 5110P, in 2004.
The " KIng " Patek 5110P:
Even though I only have one in my collection, I am thinking of adding a few others. Some are vintage, such as the Breitling Unitime, the first one, the Tissot Navigator, and the Seiko Tokyo Olympics from 1964.
As for moderns, those who are tempting me a lot were the Girard Perregaux WW TC Time Only or, even better ,John Harrison, the Vacheron Patrimony Word Time, and the Jaeger Lecoultre Geophysic Universal Time.
Girard Perregaux:
The Vacharon Patrimony Word Time:
And the Jaeger Lecoultre Geophysic Universal Time.
In 2016, came another serious contender, or outsider, the Chopard LUC Traveler One, in steel, rose gold and platinum. I am a fan of white metal watches, so I liked the steel and the platinum versions. For once, with a strong preference for the steel, because of its dial which is more my taste than the platinum.
The " regular " steel:
And, for the comparison, the Platinum:
What I like a lot is the case proportions: With a diameter of 42 mm and a height of 12, 1 mm; it is not too big nor thick. Some would say that 40 mm would be better, and I could be among those ones, but we should keep in mind that this world time has a circular ( and very nicely integrated ) date, and that, if you want to easily read it, you need some space... Well played, Chopard.
The brushed and polished decorations of the case, lugs and bezel are eye catching, too. The crowns are superb and well located.
As for the movement, for an automatic one, it is made with a lot of care. Even if I would have preferred a micro rotor, or even better, a manual winding one...
Just after these regular releases, Chopard issued some special editions, such as:
1/ The Time of the Desert ( Dubai, if my memory serves me well ) , steel, 20 pieces:
2/ The Moscow Edition, Steel, 15 pieces.
3/ The Singapore Edition, Steel, 15 pieces.
Among the current steel, the Moscow and the Singapore Edition, I would say that my preference would go between the current and the Singapore. I am still debating.
For those who also love rose gold, there was a Singapore LE and a Beijing LE, to be complete.
But one thing is for sure, I will get one LUC Traveler One, one day.
Best,
Nicolas