Part II: Complications and men's

Jan 30, 2013,21:34 PM
 

Before SIHH Cartier unveiled the new Calibre de Cartier Chronograph with the in-house 1904CH-MC movement. I liked it a lot more than the original Calibre de Cartier automatic, and you can see photos and my thoughts on it .



 

At SIHH Cartier unveiled two more mechanical men's watches that are noteworthy. Both are in the traditional Cartier style, with a slight touch of modern watchmaking.

The first is the Tortue XL with big date. Simple but attractive, and available in white or rose gold. The movement is based on a JLC calibre.


















The other is the Santos-Dumont with date and power reserve. I like this a lot, despite the date window being the three-date aperture from the Calibre de Cartier that I dislike. Though the shape is similar to the Santos-Dumont ultra-thin, the watch is markedly thicker, which gives it a solid feel on the wrist.












This is available only in rose gold, with either a grey or silver dial. The movement is a Piaget.






 

And the Tank Anglais, which was only available on bracelet when launched last year, is now available on leather strap - and it looks tremendously better. This is available in three sizes and the various colours of gold.










 

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2013-01-30 21:59:20


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Cartier at SIHH 2013

 
 By: SJX : January 30th, 2013-21:33
Cartier had a strong year in 2013. Amongst the SIHH exhibitors, it was amongst the best in terms of breadth, complications and ideas. For me the highlights are the pair of mystery watches in the Fine Watchmaking line, the Crash on bracelet, and the little...  

Part I: Fine Watchmaking

 
 By: SJX : January 30th, 2013-21:34
The news of the 2013 Fine Watchmaking line was revealed on the forum earlier, and here is the complete list. My favourites are the twin mystery watches, which are inspired by Cartier's iconic mystery clocks. The Mysterious Hours is an especially compellin...  

Part II: Complications and men's

 
 By: SJX : January 30th, 2013-21:34
Before SIHH Cartier unveiled the new Calibre de Cartier Chronograph with the in-house 1904CH-MC movement. I liked it a lot more than the original Calibre de Cartier automatic, and you can see photos and my thoughts on it . At SIHH Cartier unveiled two mor...  

Part III: Ladies and jewellery

 
 By: SJX : January 30th, 2013-21:34
The highlight of the ladies' and jewelled watches is the new Crash with a matching teardrop bracelet. I was sceptical when I first saw stock images of the watch, but in person it is beautiful. The delicate teardrop links of the bracelet match the case sha...  

What especially grabbed my attention was the day hand of the…

 
 By: marcelo : January 31st, 2013-04:05
…Rotonde de Cartier PC Chronograph. So clever! Thank you for the great report, SJX. ;)

I like the "T" shape, which makes it much easier...

 
 By: marcelo : January 31st, 2013-11:32
...to see which day the hand is pointing to.

The T-shaped hand is actually

 
 By: SJX : February 1st, 2013-10:12
used on all the perpetual and annual calendar models. And you are right, it is very functional. - SJX

Nope but that does not mean the end of the collaboration

 
 By: SJX : January 31st, 2013-10:16
Cartier may work with AP R&P in the future. - SJX

Nice new line-up, as always...

 
 By: KIH : February 2nd, 2013-19:28
.. I am just concerned that Cartier is getting further away from my league before I can reach and bigger and thicker like other brands.... :-( The mysterious tourbillon is one to meet in person.... Ken

Double Mysterious tourbillon is very interesting

 
 By: SJX : February 2nd, 2013-23:56
visually and mechanically, though perhaps a bit big for the Japanese market. - SJX

Part IV: An analysis of Cartier's 2013 collection

 
 By: SJX : February 17th, 2013-21:11
Cartier’s new collection presented at SIHH 2013 is notable not just for the various watches, but for a few trends that reflect the brand’s development as a watchmaker. One is the invoking of Cartier’s historical timepieces with the new Crash and Mysteriou...