Octo Finissimo got a new movement and Bulgari forgot to tell anyone? 🧐

Apr 12, 2022,01:37 AM
 



 
Screenshot from bulgari.com shows the old calibre 138 movement with 36 jewels.





Screenshot of the new 138 movement with 31 jewels.



The bridges aren’t separated in the same places and the bevels and movement interior are less visible.

Both new movement screenshots taken from watch box reviews YouTube March 20 2022 https://youtu.be/ehzUheWaeDE



Bulgari made seemingly substantial changes to their movement, didn’t mention it (to my knowledge), didn’t change the calibre number and continue to advertise the old version as the movement various Octo Finissimos come with. 

Interesting 🧐 


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Haha

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-01:42

I beat you to it

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-01:42

Maybe the Tim Mosso version is a fake?

 
 By: JoshTheCanadian : April 12th, 2022-01:42
My version, purchased 9/21, has the "old" movement.

I looked into that

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-01:44
Don’t think so. Other micro rotor replicas look much different. Also, he said the finish is on par with other top brands.

I believe the architecture was changed for reasons including durability and cost-cutting.

 
 By: Tim_M : April 12th, 2022-02:03
Finish remains good for the price, roughly on par with JLC, the (majority) mass-produced AP movements, and GO. Best, Tim

Interesting.

 
 By: JoshTheCanadian : April 12th, 2022-02:09
Did you find the finishing on the new movement to be of a lower quality? Visually, it seems less arresting, and the bridges are far less ornate. The old movements were a cut above JLC, in my opinion.

Definitely not a fake. But I'm glad you considered this!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-06:14
Because one day there probably will be a fake! Once the Octo Finissimo bandwagon takes off!

So, since I am already working, I'm going to keep my lawyer hat on...

 
 By: JoshTheCanadian : April 12th, 2022-02:07
Caveat - it is entirely possible that Tim Mosso's version is a fake. In this day and age, this is nothing short of shocking to me. It would be one thing to roll this movement out in a new watch - however, to put a "new" movement into existing lines withou... 

Am glad to have the 'old' version. Has been solid and reliable.

 
 By: enjoythemusic : April 12th, 2022-02:56
Have taken her swimming to the beach many times, and our pool, plus there's the on/off road bicycling. So far she has been incredibly durable and keeps excellent time. Winding is fine too, stay active my friends. If the new movements turns out to be true,... 

The 10th Anniversary OF has kept the old version…

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-03:20
saw this on , hands on review. What does it say that Bulgari decided to use the old one for this important release? ...  

This is absolutely perplexing.

 
 By: JoshTheCanadian : April 12th, 2022-03:21
Would like to see a second watch with the “new” movement.

I'm with you...

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-03:35
but I've watched that review a couple times. The watch is as real looking as it gets. Tim has already commented in the thread with some additional info.

The “new” movement appears to be similar…

 
 By: JCF81 : April 12th, 2022-03:33
…in design to the new Bulgari perpetuals. Image from revolutionwatch.com ...  

Good catch! The plot thickens.

 
 By: enjoythemusic : April 12th, 2022-03:36

Hmmm ok, interesting catch!

 
 By: Daandeluxe : April 12th, 2022-05:40
In order to make it more interesting: please see attached photo of my OF 10th anniversary. Apparently with the new movement..... ...  

More interesting indeed.

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-06:16
Just checked the Bulgari website they show the new version on the anniversary model. ...  

Hmm. Bulgari is probably trying to address some of the little quirks of the old movement...

 
 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-06:03
The old movement, the one with more jewels, didn't wind perfectly, as almost all automatic winding micro rotors suffer. It's not a problem unique to Buglari. A lot of micro rotors have winding issues. Thus, some clients would complain the movement would s... 

Those are reasonable and valid points. But to keep the same calibre number...

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-06:20
show the old version in website descriptions and even, seemingly, put both into the anniversary model without any mention? It's hard to understand.

Agreed. It was definitely a very covert move...

 
 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-06:34
Definitely unusual! I might have called it BVL 138 V2 or 138B or something to denote there's a difference. But then again, I'm not the one in charge!

Definitely calls for a new designation…very surprised Tim Mosso didn’t make any remark at all about the change during the review…

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-16:36
Contrary to your thread where you thank him for initially pointing out the changes, he made no mention whatsoever. Just to clarify. Whether he was aware of the alterations at the time of the review is not known.

Oh. I thought he identified the changes.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-16:45
The other threads cited they found out through Tim’s video and I must have made the incorrect assumption that Tim mentioned it. Oops. Sorry! Thanks for straightening out the record there!

The changes were picked up by others who saw the video review…

 
 By: oyster case : April 12th, 2022-17:20
So, thought it important to clarify that instead of praise perhaps some criticism is more appropriate, assuming he was aware of the changes.

Overall, these YouTube videos aren't terribly critical...

 
 By: patrick_y : April 13th, 2022-02:50
And especially on Watchbox, a platform with the intention of selling a watch, one has to assume they will naturally never be critical of their own product in a video. It's neither the place nor the time, and the questions it raises wouldn't be able to be ... 

Not expecting Tim to be critical but it was an opportunity to mention this one had the new movement…

 
 By: oyster case : April 13th, 2022-17:58
I’m guessing he wasn’t aware it was new. As for the rest, the issue with this, as has been repeatedly stated by many, is that major changes were made, without mention, without any numerical or alphabetical alterations and that the Bulgari website pictures... 

Maybe. Who knows.

 
 By: patrick_y : April 14th, 2022-02:31
Patek Philippe had made a modification from the 315 to the 324 movements. They were relatively minor. But enough for them to make a new caliber number for it. The two movements look physically the same to my eyes. These Bulgari movements to me looks somew... 

It was easy to see, but I'm not sure there's a functional change here.

 
 By: Tim_M : April 20th, 2022-01:36
In videos, I try to focus on functional changes that alter how the product works or ages during use time. Also, it's not clear to me when this running change was made, and I like to link changes to identifiable model years or production periods. The chang... 

Agreed!

 
 By: patrick_y : April 12th, 2022-07:52
Probably for better winding is my guess...

Perplexing for sure.

 
 By: MiguelFlash : April 12th, 2022-11:31
I am very happy with the original movement on mine. Beautiful. If Bvlgari made changes to improve the movement it should be transparent. But in my opinion the original is much nicer looking.

Maybe this is being done with a view to using the movement as a base driver of complications

 
 By: Tim_M : April 21st, 2022-02:19
Particularly with the larger winding rotor, I get the feeling that some of these changes might be driven by the desire to use the BVL138 as a tractor movement for complications. With the perpetual calendar launched and more complications likely, it is pos...