Baselword 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Bulgari

Mar 22, 2012,13:29 PM
 

Dear All:

we begin our series of Baselworld 2012 reports with the Bulgari company. 




Bulgari, formerly known as a jewellery/luxury brand made serious foray into the world of fine watches. It started already in 1977 with the launch of the BVLGARI BVLGARI watch which has received a cult status amongst collectors. Only 5 years later, in 1982, Bulgari Time, a company dedicated to watchmaking, was created in Neuchâtel.

From these beginnings Bulgari pursued the aim of becoming more and more independent in watchmaking terms, acquiring Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta as well as component companies such as Cadrans Design, a producer of dials for high-end watches, and Prestige d’Or, a specialist in the production of metal watchstraps.

In 2009 Bulgari could present its first manufacture watch with proprietary movement and all components completely produced and assembled in-house, the Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, named after the founder of the company. For a presentation please click here.









Novelties – we saw several pieces from their Daniel RothGerald GentaBVLGARI BVLGARI, as well as Serpenti collections.

We will start with the first two lines which deserve special attention as both have been recently acquired and are continuously integrated within the entire Bulgari universe. We were eager to learn if and how Bulgari intends to further develop them.

We asked Guido Terreni, Managing Director of Bulgari’s watch business unit, whether Bulgari intends to further develop the two lines or whether they want to slowly reduce their visibility (and eventually abandon them). Mr Terreni assured us that Bulgari is committed to further developing the two lines. He added that Bulgari acquired much needed watchmaking expertise with those two brands. He conceded that this is seen as a valuable complement to the firm’s mastery of interpreting contemporary styles and trends (the Italian roots, sic!), it adds the credible content. With both Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta Bulgari aims to achieve a balanced level of skills in design as well as in expertise. 

More concretely, Giudo Terreni suggests that with Genta the imminent task is to add balance to the watch and to reduce the overdesign, whereas the Roth watches need a more contemporary touch.

In other words: Bulgari aims to create synergies and cross-fertilsation by combining the design and execution with the watchmaking skills.

Let’s take a closer look on the novelties and see how this turns out in practice.

A first hint at what would follow was already prominently placed adjacent to the entrance lobby of the impressive two-story Bulgari booth. Two captivating kinetic/acoustic installations drew us there, the first one representing a tonewood arrangement (-> can we expect a repeating watch?)…




… and the second one being a mesmerising mechanical sculpture of breathing, illuminated bellows. Its movements resembled - in pace and rhythm - the dance of the Papillon hands…




And now, let's start!
This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2012-03-24 09:23:03 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-04-24 08:16:29

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The Daniel Roth Collection...

 
By: Ornatus-Mundi : March 22nd, 2012-13:30
Daniel Roth watches are characterised by their distinct case shape. In a 2003 description of the first iteration of the Papillon (more on that later!) Alberto Shileo writes on the occasion of the presentation of the original Papillon: “Enough has certainl...  

Nice to see the Endurer Chronosprint is available with a rubber strap

 
By: AnthonyTsai : March 22nd, 2012-19:43
If the rubber strap is as comfortable as the Diagono X-Pro rubber strap (looks like similar construction), it'll make the Endurer an even more comfortable watch to wear on the wrist. And those who like bracelets will be happy to see a bracelet available f... 

The Carillon Tourbillon repeater is exceptional

 
By: doubleup : April 1st, 2012-06:49
As you mentioned in a world where tourbillon repeaters are common place, (which is pretty crazy when you think about that sentence) there is something delightfully different about this one. The smokey grey collor and beveled edges of the movements is real... 

"tourbillon repeaters are common place"...

 
By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 3rd, 2012-01:41
that of course was written with a twinkle in the eye. Modern design and construction technologies make it much easier to construct complications (and combinations thereof) which were just impossible a few years ago. That still does not mean its easy, but ... 

The Gerald Genta Collection...

 
By: Ornatus-Mundi : March 22nd, 2012-13:31
This Collection dates back to the late famed watch designer bearing this name, Gerald Genta . Famous mostly for this iconic case design such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oa k, and later the Mickey Mouse watches . Currently, the Octo Collection still bears...  

The BVLGARI BVLGARI Collection...

 
By: Ornatus-Mundi : March 22nd, 2012-13:32
The collection that first comes to mind when talking about Bulgari watches. Established since 1977! NOVELTIES: BVLGARI BVLGARI Diagono Ceramic Diagono Ceramic As the name already hints, ceramics are a major feature of this year’s rejuvenation of this time...  

On Chronograph Movements

 
By: aaronm : March 23rd, 2012-11:06
I could swear that they used to use the F.Piguet 1185 in the BulgariBulgari chronograph... A

The Serpenti Collection...

 
By: Ornatus-Mundi : March 22nd, 2012-13:33
The Serpenti collection is first and foremost a feminine jewelry collection, but it is much more than that. It is also a demonstration of skills acquired by the luxury house: “The interpretation of the serpent theme bears eloquent witness to the mul...  

Our Conclusion!

 
By: Ornatus-Mundi : March 22nd, 2012-13:33
One of the first appointments of this Basel fair, and it already gave us quite the full message: evolution instead of revolution. Notwithstanding the Carillon, Bulgari revisited their classics and added subtle improvements and/or expansions. The company p...  

Fabulous report Magnus and Oliver!

 
By: AnthonyTsai : March 22nd, 2012-19:50
I was hoping we would see more Endurer variants but guess not this year. Hopefully next year! I enjoyed both your commentaries and personal opinions, and keep up the great work you 2! Cheers, Anthony

Thank you Magnus and Olivier...

 
By: dreamer8 : March 23rd, 2012-23:38
Enjoyed your report and especially the photos. I prefer them not to be clinical and your photos have some shadow , light and shade which brings out those gorgeous voluptuous shapes of the watches. Bravo. Cheers, dreamer

An interesting conclusion

 
By: MTF : March 27th, 2012-11:50
Thanks, chaps, for the report and the surprising affordable favourite. There seems to be a convergence of strap design; the Diagono and X-Pro share commonality. One watch that sneaked in between two Baselworld shows (2011 and 2012) is the special edition ...  

Another terrific report guys.

 
By: MichaelC : April 5th, 2012-06:22
There was a lot to cover here and your insight is very thorough. Thanks again!

Thank you Magnus...

 
By: pingtsai : March 22nd, 2012-22:03
....for this excellent Bulgari report from Basel. The photos are amazing. Great to hear that Bulgari is giving reassurance that they intend to continue the DR and GG lines.