Breguet

Ornatus-Mundi
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BaselWorld 2016: Breguet presents 2 outstanding Reine de Naples: Perles Impériales & 9818

In my personal opinion the Breguet Reine de Naples is the sole personification of a lady's watch. During BaselWorld 2016 the l’Abbaye-based manufacture once more demonstrated this position with the introduction of two new variants of this model, the masterfully crafted Reine de Naples Perles Impériales & the more casually elegant Reine de Naples 9818 . Both are jewellry watches with an astounding amount of artisanship in conception and execution:



1.) Reine de Naples Perles Impériales:
This is the luxurious glamour piece par exellence. It comes with a red gold ovoid-shaped case (a white gold version is available as well), but the mark of distinction certainly is the 'diadem' around the - naturally finely hand-guilloched - dial:



Firstly, there are 66 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.13 ct) that frame the dial. The bezel itself is adorned with 23 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 4.12 cts) and an Akoya pearl at the 6 o'clock position. But to appreciate the exceptional gemsetting work you need to look further....



Around the caseband you'll find 24 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.24 ct), and a crown set with a briolette diamond (approx. 0.28 ct). Towards the base of the case Breguet incorporated chaton settings of 15 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.93 ct).



The overall aim was to set and place the diamonds such that the maximum amount of light could pass through them, resulting in an unprecedented sparkle. I would say: misson accomplished.



Breguet delivers the timpeice with a satin strap with a folding clasp set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.14 ct).

Alltogether we'll count approx. 5.7 carats of diamonds in total.

The dial is - compared to the case - almost conventional (for a Breguet, that is!): an engine-turned natural mother-of-pearl with a Breguet medallion at 12 o'clock and an offset hours chapter with diamond markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. Time is indicated with typical Breguet open-tipped hands in red gold (blued steel for the white gold version).







If you compare the above images with the following you cannot help but being captivated by the fantastic guillochage work so typical for the brand. Catch the right light and you are truly rewarded:



When it comes to the movement, Breguet also delivers: a self-winding Breguet. Cal. 586/1 movement. Small at 6¾ lignes, and with 'only' 38 hours of power reserve, it still features the most recent Breguet advancements such as Breguet balance on a silicon spring, and it is adjusted in 6 positions. The rotor  is nicely decorated and crafted in engine-turned 950 platinum.  

This is real horological credibility!



If that is not enough, you could treat your girl to the Perles Impériales Haute Joaillerie ring in 18-carat red (or white) gold set with an Akoya pearl (9.5-10mm) that is surrounded by 11 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.71 ct). The entire ring is shank set with 16 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.17 ct).





Anything to criticise? Probably the price, but this I do (thankfully!) not know!

2.) Reine de Naples 9818 :
If the above is too much for you (for whatever criteria), Breguet has an alternative: The Ref. 9818, an elegant, contemporary and modern interpretation of Art Déco, I would say:



The watch reduces the Reine de Naples to its essence: as 'indication' just an oversized roman 12 in white natural mother-of-pearl marquetry, taking up the entire dial which is crafted in a lavender-coloured mother-of-pearl, individually numbered and signed by Breguet.



Around the bezel and on the even links of the bracelet you'll find many, many brilliant-cut diamonds, on bezel and lug alone 64 (approx. 1.654 cts) and on the crown you'll admire a briolette diamond (approx. 0.15 ct).

Movement-wise there is the same Breguet. Cal. 586/1 as above.



Surely, the Reine de Naples does not revolutionise watchmaking. Not in technical aspects, but I am not so sure when it comes to the craftsmanship and design. I have yet to see another basic ladies watch design that is at the same time as proprietary and idiosyncratic, as immediately associatable with its brand (here: Breguet) as the RdN, but at the same time as effortless at ease with many, many styles and preferences. It can be as classic and as Breguet as possible (e.g. the 8908), but also very modern and sober (think 8968).

Nothing here appears stressed or forced into; all is a natural fit. I could look intensively, and I did so. But I have yet to encounter another watch that is so happily versatile.

And herin I guess lies the entire mysterium of the Reine de Naples!

Thanks for reading,
Magnus


This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2016-08-25 08:38:07

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