As expected, Cartier was one of the most
active and creative brands of the 2014 SIHH. It is not a surprise since
Cartier has followed this trend for several years. Frankly speaking, who
could imagine in 2006 that within 8 years, Cartier would become a very
credible player in the high horology segment? That was at that time the
target assigned to Carole Forestier and the development team and this
target is achieved now.
There are several roles given
to the high horology collection: of course to contribute by itself to
the growth of the brand but also to improve the image of Cartier as a
global and very credible watchmaking player. It is a bit a paradox.
Cartier is one of the most famous brands in the world with a very long
history which contains iconic timepieces but there was a need to create
and to reinforce the image of a true Manufacture to meet the
expectations of the market.
The collection presented this
year is very important. Not only because of its quality, of its size.
It is very important because it gathers some pieces which will be
crucial for the strategy of the brand. I take only one example: the
Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch is in my point of view, along maybe with
the Automatic Reverso, the most strategic piece of the Salon. Why?
Simply because Cartier has high expectations with it when it comes to
sales figures and because it allows Cartier to enter a new territory,
the segment of "casual" or "sports" watches.
I
propose you to discover the key pieces of this collection with a brief
description of them and my first feelings. Of course, I will
have the opportunity to come back with detailed presentations during the
year.
I would like to start with my fav watch of the
collection: the
Tank Louis Cartier skeleton
sapphire.
This watch is a perfect
demonstration of the expertise of the Cartier Manufacture but at the
same time, I consider it as the meeting point between two universes: the
universe of fine watchmaking and the universe of
elegance.
Being a Tank Louis Cartier,
the watch has very balanced proportions with a very slender style
enhanced by the flat case sides. I love the contrast between the
circular shape of the main bridge of the movement and the rectangular
shape of the case. I love the feeling given by the movement which seems
to float inside the case. Despite the purety of the design, the
horological contents of the watch are also visible. At the top of the
movement, we can observe the presence of the two barrels. The watch has a
power reserve of 72 hours for a 4 hz frequency. It means that the power
provided by the barrels is more used to influence the thrust and the
accuracy than to get a longer power reserve. And honestly, winding the
watch is such a beautiful experience (also for the eyes!) that I would
not be happy to not do it on a daily basis!
The back of the movement is
as beautiful as the front side. The watch is successful because it
manages to perfectly integrate some details that are usually a bit out
of context in skeleton watches like the barrels and the incabloc. Look
at the balance wheel: it seems to be so delicate with its very thin and
shy bridge...
The case size is well defined
(30mm x 39,2mm), not too large, not too small, to take advantage of the
visual effect given by the movement without losing the refined style
this watch requires. On the wrist, the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton watch
has a strong presence thanks to the mesmerizing movement. A true beauty
and a star of the Salon.
Some
data:WG case
Size:
30mmx39,2mm
Thickness: 7,45mm
Handwind movement 9616MC
- 4hz frequency - power reserve of 72 hours - 159 parts - 21
jewels
Pros:+ a superb
movement enhanced by the flawless finishings
+ a design
achievement with beautiful contrasts: blued hands/grey
bridges, circular bridges/rectangular case shape
+ a very
balanced size
+ the performances of the
movement
Cons:- let me
think again to try to find one... but for the time being, except the
folding clasp (I'm not a fan of the Cartier one), I didn't see any. I
think that a buckle would have been more coherent with this
watch.
The
Rotonde de Cartier Earth and
Moon was already known by the SIHH visitors since the press
release was issued at the end of the year. It features a very unusal
complication: the moonphase... on demand! But this poetic complication
doesn't have to make us forget about the two others: the flying
tourbillon and the second timezone display.
Actually, the main interest
of the watch is the way it plays with the tourbillon. The tourbillon has
a very active role here because it is used to display the moonphase
thanks to the disk which symbolizes the moon and which finds its
adequate location on demand in front of the tourbillon. It is a way to
combine these two complications and also to make them play together. In a
way, it creates a dynamic around the moonphase display which is usually
a very static complication. So why not? At the beginning, I was not so
attracted by the concept but I start to appreciate it more and
more.
The second timezone is
displayed thanks to a disk around the time subdial which allows to free
space on the front side. The lapis-lazuli dial is very nicely made and
it creates some spectacular shades of lights... in coherence with the
moonphase complication and the poetic side of the
watch.
In the past, I used to be
disappointed by some renderings of Cartier movements on the back. It is
absolutely not the case here: the movement 9440MC has a very original
lay-out thanks to its semi-skeletonized finishings. I had the feeling to
observe stars or a kind of intriguing web. It is one of the most
convincing Cartier see through casebacks and a true feast for the
eyes.
The Rotonde Earth and Moon is
a heavy and large watch and its 47mm platinum case is easily felt on
the wrist. Even if the size of the movement is large by itself (40mm!), I
would have appreciated to see the same combo of complications in a
smaller case. The 3D Roman numerals are a bit too present dial side for
my taste and a more delicate context would have improved the magic side
of the watch.
Some
data:Platinum case
Diameter:
47mm
Thickness: 16,65mm
Handwind movement 9440MC - 3hz
frequency - power reserve of 72 hours - 362 parts - 40
jewels
Pros:+ a charming way
to combine the tourbillon and the moonphase display
+ the use
of lapis-lazuli
+ the beauty of the movement on the
back
Cons:- the watch is
large, heavy and thick so it will not fit the small wrists
-
the 3D Roman numerals are visually too present dial
side
We stay with a complicated Rotonde with the
Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendar. Even if it remains a
large watch with a 45mm platinum case, I was seduced by the way this
Rotonde plays with the complications. Like the Rotonde Earth and Moon,
the watch combines two complications to create a very unusual dial
lay-out. Actually I have never seen such way to display Perpetual
Calendar and tourbillon together: the tourbillon is litterally
inserted inside the Perpetual Calendar zone. Can you imagine an arena
with a tourbillon on its center? The Astrocalendar gives this
feeling.
The flying tourbillon is
surrounded by 3 circles used for the Perpetual Calendar data. These date
are indicated thanks to moving blue windows. At the beginning, the
Perpetual Calendar needs time to get used with it since the locations of
the windows are never the same. The time is displayed thanks to a
subdial located on top of the dial. The trouble is that the Perpetual
Calendar zone is so huge that the time subdial is cut and that a large
area of the scale is removed. In some hands positions, the legibility of
time can be a bit difficult.
On the other hand, the
movement 9459MC which powers the Astrocalendar is really impressive
thanks to its easy use. All the data can be set by the crown except the
days of the week which are set thanks to the pusher (the days always
follow the same sequence). The original architecture of the movement,
different from the usual Perpetual Calendar calibers was designed to
make it more practical and more reliable. This automatic movement is
nicely finished and decorated, quite appealing with the leap year
indicator on the back side. But it is not as spectacular as the Earth
and Moon one.
The Astrocalendar, despite
2mm less than the Earth and Moon is obviously a large watch. But it is
the price to pay to get this spectacular area dedicated to the Perpetual
Calendar data and the flying tourbillon. Our eyes are attracted by the
tourbillon and we almost forget the time display on the top of the dial!
An innovative and intriguing watch.
Some
data:Platinum case
Diameter:
45mm
Thickness: 15,1mm
Automatic movement 9459MC - 3hz
frequency - power reserve of 50 hours - 382 parts - 51
jewels
Pros:+ an original
way to display the Perpetual Calendar data
+ the hypnotizing
flying tourbillon
+ the efficient and easy to use automatic
movement
+ the movement is nice to observe through the sapphire
caseback
Cons:- the
legibility can be sometimes difficult due to the large segment of the
scale which was removed
- the watch is large, thick and heavy
and will not fit the small wrists, the price to pay to enjoy this
original dial lay-out
Let's stay with a similar case
size with the
Rotonde de Cartier tourbillon
chronograph. We find again the caliber 9438MC coming from
Renaud&Papi in this Rotonde context (we previously saw it with
the Pasha tourbillon chronograph). It features a minutes &
seconds chronograph and a tourbillon with a 8 days power
reserve.
Despite a rather classic
context, it contains several original details like the power reserve
indicator or the vertical bridge of the tourbillon. I appreciate the
dial lay-out of this watch even if I'm sure that, due to the subdials
locations and the diameter of the movement (34,6mm), the watch could
have been a bit smaller and much thinner.
The movement gives a strange
feeling: it is at the same time very enjoyable to observe thanks to its
flawless finishings and its complexity but it is also a bit too
concentrated and not homogeneously spread over the plate. Anyway, it
remains a top handwind chronograph movement.
The Rotonde tourbillon
chronograph is another impressive novelty from Cartier even if it
doesn't have the same impact than the others of the high-end segment:
its movement is not new and it lacks the magic side of the Earth and
Moon or the Astrocalendar. Let's say it is dedicated to clients who look
for a high horology Cartier watch with a more familiar
context.
Some
data:Pink Gold case
Diameter:
45mm
Thickness: 16,4mm
Handwind movement 9438MC - 3hz
frequency - power reserve of 8 days - 318 parts - 31
jewels
Pros:+ the
pleasure to find again the 8 days tourbillon chronograph
movement
+ the overall finishings of the watch
+the
dial lay-out
Cons:- the
feeling that the watch could have been smaller and
thinner
We enter a different dimension now with the
Rotonde Cartier Day and Night with retrograde
moonphases. We all know the famous Rotonde with the Day and Night
display on the top half and the numerals on the bottom half. It was one
of my fav Cartier watches ever thanks to its charming way to display the
hours with the Moon and the Sun. This watch created a different way to
apprehend the flow of time with the slow motion of the top
disk.
The watch is released again,
featuring now an additional complication: the retrograde moonphases. The
consequence is a larger case (43,5mm vs 42mm) but hopefully, the new
Rotonde Day and Night stays very refined thanks to a balanced
diameter/thickness (12,77mm) ratio. I have to confess that the choice of
the additional complication is perfect. Actually, the watch uses the
moon twice and it gives an almost mysterious atmosphere to this Rotonde.
When you look at it for the first time, you don't understand how to
read the time. But you quickly understand that you only have to follow
the sun and the moon on the top while the minutes are indicated by a
classic hand.
The Rotonde Day and Night,
available in Pink Gold or in Palladium, is powered by the automatic
movement 9912MC. Once again, Cartier improved the visual rendering of
the movement which is nice to observe through the sapphire caseback
despite, maybe, the feeling to be a bit too small for the case (this
feeling doesn't exist dial side).
I had a lot of pleasure to
put this Rotonde on the wrist: its originality, the way the retrograde
moonphase display decorates the dial and the beauty of the
day&night disk make this watch very appealing. Even if it
doesn't reach the same level of enthusiasm than the Tank Louis Cartier
skeleton sapphire, I was highly seduced by its beauty and its
alternative time display.
Some
data:Pink Gold or Palladium case
Diameter:
43,5mm
Thickness: 12,77mm
Automatic movement 9912MC -
4hz frequency - power reserve of 48 hours - 290 parts - 44
jewels
Pros:+ the pleasure
to find again the day&night disk
+ the additional
complication is perfect in this context
+ a refined watch with a
sublt touch of mystery
+ balanced proportions despite a rather
large diameter
(43,5mm)
Cons:- the
movement 9912MC seems to be a bit too small on the
caseback
I presented you at the end of the first half
of 2013 the new Tank MC line. The
Tank MC skeleton
was a bit the flag bearer of the line thanks to its very contemporary
skeletonized movement which highlighted the key features of the new Tank
MC case.
This Tank MC skeleton is back
with a two-tone movement which takes advantage of the contrast between
black and pink. The movement 9619MC finds here a new dimension: the
moving parts are more visible while the large Roman numerals (actually,
the bridges of the movement) become more sober. The watch is also warmer
than the first version thanks to the colour of the case material and
the contrast between the case and the
bridges.
It is a very different watch
from the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton sapphire: the aesthetic approach is
more powerful with the Tank MC while I consider the Tank Louis Cartier
as a very delicate watch. I clearly prefer the Tank Louis Cartier for
its subtlety but the Tank MC skeleton is a very valuable demonstration
of what could be a successful contemporary skeleton watch. Its case is
much larger than the Tank Louis Cartier one (34,5mm x 43,8mm) and so
this watch is more dedicated to larger wrists without being outsized for
people who also appreciate balanced watches.
Some
data:Pink Gold case
Size: 34,5mm x
43,8mm
Thickness: 9,3mm
Handwind movement 9619MC -
4hz frequency - power reserve of 72 hours - 138 parts - 20
jewels
Pros:+ the contrast
between the case and the bridges colours
+ the contemporary
skeleton style
+ the sensual curves of the Tank MC
case
+ a watch which manages to be powerful without being
outsized
Cons:- since I
saw the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton sapphire, I always have this watch
in my mind...
As you can see, the 2014 high horology
offer from Cartier is broad with a wide range of complications and
different aesthetic approaches. The Rotonde case is the most used this
year when it comes to complicated watches and I think it is an excellent
idea. In the past, I thought that some complicated Calibre or Pasha
were lacking the Cartier touch of elegance due to their bulky cases. I
consider the Rotonde case as a good compromise between character and
refinement.
It is also important to notice that the
Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon is now available with a
39mm case in two versions:
- with a blue
flinqué enamel dial
- with the classic
dial
Obviously, it is the first
version which is the most special: thanks to its dial decoration
technique and its colour, the blue flinqué enamel dial Ballon Bleu
Flying Tourbillon is a very attractive watch which finds its
roots in the history of Cartier. The decoration technique, the flinqué
enamel, was previously used in artistic objects and it finds now a good
context with this 39mm Ballon Bleu.
The purery of dial allows us
to appreciate the guillochage which is covered with enamel. It is very
difficult to combine guillochage and enamel since the process has to be
repeated several times to get the targetted result and the appropriate
shades of colours.
The movement which powers
both watches is the 9452MC also used by the 46mm version. So the
question I have is to know if a diameter around 42/43mm would have been
the right size, the most suitable for any wrist rather than presenting 2
"extreme" sizes with 39mm and 46mm cases. Anyway, the beauty of the
dial is indisputable and believe me, it is very difficult to capture
with a camera the wide range of blue colours created by the lights on
the dial.
The 39mm version of
the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon with the classic
dial:
Let's stay in the
Ballon Bleu collection. Cartier did an important move
in its collection this year by presenting a
thinner
version of the Ballon Bleu case. With a slender
diameter/thickness ratio (40mm/6,9mm), this thin Ballon Bleu becomes a
very surprising watch. You can't imagine how the perception of the case,
the feelings we have are changed due to this thinner height. I was a
bit afraid at the first glance that the case could be felt as a
"ladies'" case.
At the end, I felt
more the elegance and the comfort on the wrist than a deeper inclanation
towards the women' tastes. The Ballon Bleu case can be worn on men or
ladies' wrists and it is still the same with this thinner version. An
astonishing watch available in Pink Gold with silver or slate dials or
with a gems set bezel. Please note than any of these watches doesn't
feature a second hand.
This 40mm Ballon Bleu is
powered by the handwind caliber 430MC (actually, the Piaget 430P), a
right movement for a thin case.
Some
data:Pink Gold case
Diameter:
40mm
Thickness: 6,9mm
Handwind movement 430MC
Pros:+ a nice
evolution of the Ballon Bleu case
+ the efficient 430MC
movement, perfect in the context of a thin watch
+ a very
elegant watch on the wrist and the Ballon Bleu character is
preserved
Cons:- the
lack of second hand makes the dial very
static
The gems set bezel version of the
Ballon Bleu 40mm thin:
I propose you to have a
closer look on the most important watch of the collection, the
Calibre de Cartier Diver watch. As I said at the beginning of
the article, this watch is important because Cartier has high
expectations with it and because it allows Cartier to enter a new
segment, the segment of the "sports" watch.
Cartier didn't have the right
to fail and I can easily imagine the pressure on the
development team. Cartier had to demonstrate its skills with this watch
and we all know that it is more complicated to create a
"blockbuster" in the segment of the Diver watches than an outstanding
watch in the high horology range. Actually, Cartier could take advantage
of a strong base to develop its diver watch: the Calibre de Cartier
itself.
I remember very well when the
Calibre was presented: at that time, I considered it as a very
versatile watch. Maybe not an all-around one but it could be used in
more casual conditions thanks to its quite powerful design (case shape,
crown protector, large date window, large XII on top of the dial
etc...). The evolution of this base made by Cartier is for me successful
because the Calibre de Cartier Diver watch contains everything a diver
watch requires without losing the Cartier touch. Following this road map
was not easy but despite some strange details for a diver watch (roman
numerals, the cabochon, the small second hand), I consider that Cartier
achieved its objective.
The watch respects the
technical requirements of ISO 6425 and I could appreciate the feeling
while moving the unidirectional turning bezel. This bezel is coated with
black ADLC and the visual result improves the perceived quality. The
great asset of this Calibre Diver is that it features almost the same
sizes than the "classic" Calibre: the diameters are equal (42mm), only
the thickness is slightly bigger with the Diver watch (11mm vs 10mm).
This achievement is key because the 300m waterproofness
doesn't bring any additional constraint and a client can really hesitate
now between the two watches. And considering the beauty and the
character of the Caliber Diver watch, I wonder if the latter could not
become the most successful Calibre by far.
The Calibre Diver watch is
powered obviously by the movement 1904MC already housed by the Calibre
and other Cartier watches like the Tank MC Automatic. I remind you that
this basic movement was designed with only one word in mind: efficiency.
Efficiency when it comes to accuracy, to reliability and to the ability
to service it easily. Its visual rendering is not breathtaking and in
the context of the Diver watch, we don't really care. But we could feel
that Cartier spent a lot of time to design it due to the clever
technical details it contains (for example, the two barrels improve the
thrust and accuracy and not really the power reserve of 48 hours).
The Calibre Diver is not a
single watch but a full collection with several cases available: steel,
Pink Gold, two tones. It will be available around May with a rubber
strap and later this year with a bracelet.
I was seduced by this watch
thanks to its nicely made details and the comfort on the wrist. I'm sure
that it will become a star within the Cartier
collection.
Some
data:Stainless Steel, Pink Gold and Two tones
cases
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness:
11mm
Automatic movement 1904MC - Frequency: 4hz - Power reserve
of 48 hours
Waterproofness:
300m
Pros:+ a watch with
an excellent perceived quality thanks to several details nicely
made
+ the Cartier atmosphere like the Cabochon or the Roman
numerals
+ the good diameter/thickness ratio
+ the
comfort on the wrist
+ the efficient caliber 1904MC
Cons:- I would have
preferred a central second hand for a diver watch
- does
Cartier still need the "classic" Calibre in its collection
now?
The Pink Gold
version: The report is over now and I hope that I managed to
faithfully forward you the feelings I experienced at the SIHH while
browsing the 2014 Cartier collection. It is a broad collection with a
lot of technical and artistic features. It is the reason why the Cartier
forum on PuristSPro will propose you during the year more articles
about these features which explain why Cartier is now a major player in
the high horology segment.
I would like to thank a
lot the Cartier team for the warm welcome and the time they spent with
me during the SIHH.
Fr.Xavier