toowoundup
193
Incoming! A grail of mine :)
Mar 26, 2021,05:36 AM
Just got this in, a grail of mine, a Jules Audemars Tourbillon. This particular reference has the famous AP in-house back-winding automatic caliber - this means that there is no crown and 3 o'clock. You may realize that AP also put this caliber in the Royal Oak case. This makes for a very interesting design that I think is so unique. The watch is, of course, a tourbillon but also has a date function as well as a power reserve. Given that this is automatic, the inclusion of a power reserve is definitely questionable from AP but hey, that's what AP was in the 80s and 80s - a hot mess lol. AP made this reference in gold, rose gold and platinum (seen here).
This particular example has the rare "first series" dial with the old-style "audemars piguet" stamped at the 12 o'clock. From what I can tell, there are fewer than 15 examples of with this dial configuration in the D-36___ case range, making it ultra rare. After that, the case numbers switch to the D-39___ range. Over a 10-ish year period they made around 50 of these platinum tourbillons with various dial configurations. In the mid 90's, AP switched their logo design to a more bold font, which I think is less elegant. Fun fact: this watch was manufactured in the early 90's but only sold in the mid 2000s - that means it was sitting in the AD's window for over 10 years - perhaps understandable given that the original MSRP was around 180,000 EUR.
It's about time that we start appreciating AP's incredible past. Even in the 90s they were making such phenomenal and unique watches. Too bad they will be making superhero watches with Marvel going forward LOL