Hi, Re: AP and Vaucher, I based my remark on the review by Monochrome Watches
Source: "Hands On - Audemars Piquet Royal Oak Self-winding 34mm," dated 7 Oct 20.
The Audemars Piquet website states only that this new release operates on a self-winding 5800 caliber. It does not mention where the base caliber is from.
This is one example of how brands do not reveal their dependencies. It's a commonplace tactic, and part of overall branding that gives the impression of autonomy. The truth is that many high-end Swiss brands lean on assets from within the country and beyond.
Disclosures would be welcome but as someone else in this thread has already mentioned, it would shake the somewhat fragile illusion of exclusivity that these brands try to cultivate.
Vaucher/Parmigiani understands this too, which is why they are discreet about their business partnerships.
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AP and Vaucher
My understanding is AP uses the Vaucher base cal. 3002 on its new 34mm ROs, and has exclusive customisations done to it.
As far as I know, yup
the only ones that get a substantial amount of hand finishing are the Jumbos. As our other colleagues have pointed out, pretty much standard practice for all but special models or small scale manufacturers.
Many crafts are a secret. It stop copying from each other. Transparency is important, but it can take away some magic. The same as an illusionist tell the trick.
Tim Mosso speaks the truth...
It's all those Patek Philippe fan boys and Audemars Piguet fan boys who spread incorrect information and assume that because it's got a reputable name on the dial that things are always good. A lot of the AP RO Offshore Chronographs are just generic Frede...
This is not necessarily true anymore, unfortunately
In some 5177 movements (I'm unsure if this applies to all new 777Qs), the interior angles are now replaced by rounded ones which are likely done by machine. This can be seen in this video at 0:41, officially from Breguet: Regards, skyeriding
I think this is just the video, not a change in production.
Here's an actual picture: We're not taking about Dufour, the interior angles are hand finished in both cases, though. Just here they are more shallow on the entry level Breguet. Also, it is likely the hand finishing on this Breguet is just that: The finis...
Just to explain this in a bit more detail....
When people talk about machine finishing, what they're typically referring to is the anglage on the bridges. Machine finished anglage will often look flat and may have slight vertical striations visible left over from the machining process. What you ideal...
The real crime here is the opacity of the term 'hand assembled'
It's not factually false, but its not true to its implied meaning to the average watch buyer ether. The companies like to maintain the illusion of some decades experienced watchmaker obsessing over the perfect assembly of your 'precious'. Mass production ...
Patek Philippe also avoids chronometry trials these days.
It's quite a change. In the late 19th century it would enter observatories and trials, and win. Its performance chops were part of its allure. Perhaps it's the increase in volume that you mention, added to its pivot to stressing heritage and exclusivity, ...