Richemont has always been this way...

Jul 17, 2022,21:49 PM
 

I agree. I would like to see a multi-brand store. Swatch Group has the Tourbillon stores that sell multiple Swatch brands, why not something similar for Richemont? But this has always been something unique to Richemont. Richemont is unlike Swatch - Swatch is kind of like Volkswagen group, Blancpain and Breguet get the best, and the other brands get the "trickle down" and there's a lot of platform sharing, technology sharing, and advice between all the brands at Swatch. In Volkswagen, Bentley shares platforms with Porsche and Lamborghini with Audi - V8 engines are shared amongst all the brands (VW, Audi, Lambo, Bentley, and Porsche all share tech on V8 engines). Richemont on the other hand is very different. Each brand is very independent. There is almost no co-development at Richemont. Each brand is very much silo-ed and needs to operate on its own and be profitable on its own. I agree, they could operate together and see more efficiencies - especially on the retail side. But generally most Richemont brands do not operate like that. It's just how Richemont operates. But I agree. I'd like to see multi-brand Richemont stores. I could put together a compelling business case for this in certain markets - particularly tourist-heavy markets but not the Chinese market. Luxury brands want the Chinese to understand the individuality of each brand, so for their China stores, they're often individual stores (even Breguet and Blancpain are often separated in Chinese flagship stores). In China, the stores don't generate tremendous sales volumes (the wealthy buying a Breguet generally buy them overseas where the costs are lower) but are great for educating the clients about the brand and its history.
But also look at the problem with Tourbillon stores. Tourbillon stores all have that beige look. A Breguet Tourbillon sits in a beige showcase next to a Glashutte Original Flying Tourbillon, a Jacquet Droz Tourbillon, and a Blancpain Tourbillon. All of them are priced between 120,000 Euros and 150,000 Euros. A big percentage difference, but not a huge difference to someone who is seriously able to afford a Tourbillon. All in a beige case, all presented at similar price points, it's hard to get a client to understand what makes each one special... So then you're back to the "shop in shop" retail concept, where one retailer has a built out area for each brand. Lange will have its half of the store outfitted in their signature grey color scheme with Lange furniture; the Vacheron Constantin side of the store with their art-deco black and peach color scheme. There's a bit of a clash sometime. Richemont should just sell Lange and VC in a Cartier store. That would generate the biggest sales increase! The men will buy something. The ladies will buy something at the same time. Max revenue and lower costs too!  But then the watch brands would complain that they are overshadowed by Cartier.  And that this wouldn't lead to passion-buliding, excitement, and secondary/tertiary sales and turning these clients into collectors.  Richemont thinks that these mono-brand stores are more likely to turn a first time buyer into a future super-appreciator and thus a future super-collector. 


More posts: AudiBallon BleuFlying TourbillonGlashutteLamborghiniPorsche

  login to reply

Comments: view entire thread

 

New ALS boutique open

 
 By: ArmisT : July 16th, 2022-15:43
It looks like the new Boston boutique is finally open. I’m not sure exactly when opening day was, but just checked the website and see it’s listed with hours. I wonder if anyone here has been there or spoken with anyone there yet? I’m curious to know if t...  

I would not be surprised. In Canada where we have no boutique…

 
 By: Chronometer (aka yacomino) : July 16th, 2022-16:49
Lange started to restricted about a year ago the reference an AD could have and the ones that can only be sold at boutique. Now both AD left in the country are not even sure what will they hat from Lange, if anything…. So clearly they seem to be moving to... 

Correct

 
 By: Mach : July 16th, 2022-17:37

Lange is going the boutique route.

 
 By: patrick_y : July 16th, 2022-19:24
Lange feels that the brand is "lost" among multi-brand ADs and that ADs don't represent Lange especially well. They feel that ADs cannot explain the special-ness of Lange according to their surveys and analysis. I concur, all of my experiences at Lange AD... 

I know one example is just one example...

 
 By: blau : July 16th, 2022-20:14
but I will be *extremely* surprised if the new Lange boutique in Boston does a better job at all that than the recently-dropped AD did!

It's a strategy that a lot of brands are embracing...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 16th, 2022-20:26
Think about it... Let's say a salesperson works at an AD and she cannot possibly remember all the facts and details about each brand, then she has several jewelry brands she has to learn, study, and remember too. Thus, the brands are realizing that the cu... 

I was just gonna write the same

 
 By: boskomtl : July 17th, 2022-03:08
That SC&L did a good job repping ALS and the pieces they had there. I once walked in with my gen1 Datograph and the lady rep there immediately noticed it, knew exactly what watch it was, and proceeded to show me a number of interesting ALS pieces they had... 

You may think that. I may think that. But does Lange think that?

 
 By: patrick_y : July 17th, 2022-04:37
And who knows, Lange may think SC&L did a great job. BUT, they may think that they can do an even better job themselves. What's wrong with that thought process? They want to take a huge risk, but they're doing it with the hopes of improving the client exp... 

That makes a lot of sense…

 
 By: ArmisT : July 16th, 2022-21:04
For lack of better characterization, I regard Lange as a brand for those “in the know,” compared to Rolex or PP (which some may also debate), for example. And I agree that they were indeed “lost” at SC&L, whom certainly didn’t do a great job at selling me... 

That business strategy is a unique one...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 17th, 2022-01:14
I would argue that almost no multi-brand store in the country has a great sales team that truly understands Lange. At least not as well as the average buying customer. It's such a special product. And the manufacturing process is so different than the Swi... 

I am sorry, but Lange had amazing ADs representing them in both New York and Boston.

 
 By: als1678 : July 17th, 2022-02:42
They supported the brand for many years and were the most knowledgeable ambassadors in the most difficult of times. They were shut down. And the answer is pure greed and nothing else.

It isn't pure greed. It's a tremendous amount of risk for a brand to take on such fixed costs...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 17th, 2022-04:32
You're entitled to your opinion. Absolutely. And I would agree that the stores in Boston and NYC supported the Lange brand for many years. But I would also say that the stores selling the product knew less than the average customer buying the product. Lan... 

Thank you for taking the time to write a detailed response.

 
 By: als1678 : July 17th, 2022-12:57
You are right that there are nuances and I am sure not every multi brand retailer was able to represent the brand in a knowledgeable manner. But my comment was referring to two specific ADs only, ones where many members of this forum started their Lange c... 

Ok. Let's say you were referring to two ADs specifically...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 17th, 2022-15:25
Two ADs in Boston and NYC that you thought were very good. That's pretty micro to Lange. Where, Lange as a brand, needs to think of a worldwide strategy. Lange is thinking more macro here. They're thinking a whole worldwide sales strategy. Furthermore... ... 

I always appreciate your wisdom, Patrick. I am curious...

 
 By: CR : July 17th, 2022-16:48
... about Richemont's decision to have brands open their own boutiques rather than opening multibrand Richemont boutiques with say 3-5 Richemont brands (which might exist in other regions). I noticed that even the Richemont website highlights their number... 

Richemont has always been this way...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 17th, 2022-21:49
I agree. I would like to see a multi-brand store. Swatch Group has the Tourbillon stores that sell multiple Swatch brands, why not something similar for Richemont? But this has always been something unique to Richemont. Richemont is unlike Swatch - Swatch... 

I can visualize a Richemont shop-in-shop with Lange, VC, JLC, and Cartier...

 
 By: CR : July 18th, 2022-03:00
Brands have distinctive DNA that gets lost when they're intermingled. The shop-in-shop concept is superior. I visited the Swatch Tourbillon store in Miami several years ago (which I believe closed) and recall not being especially impressed with the presen... 

And now the final question...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 18th, 2022-03:25
Will the sales associate only sell in his specific "shop in shop" or will he be able to sell all brands? The brand wants a dedicated person. But the salesperson doesn't want the risk, they want to sell all brands. Thus, when a salesperson is limited, they... 

Definitely all of them

 
 By: CR : July 18th, 2022-12:40
Otherwise it's the horological equivalent of a mall food court. Very uncomfortable. And I finally googled "Balenciaga" and learned that they're a fashion company!

That's what the brands want...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 18th, 2022-16:07
Individual food court. They really want individual restaurants. A food court shares the same custodial staff and the same tables and chairs. Lange would want to use its furniture scheme and VC would want to use its own furniture too.

In this “shop in shop” hypothetical scenario…

 
 By: ArmisT : July 18th, 2022-16:02
the various brands are all ultimately Richemont brands, correct? Therefore, from a cost effective /economy of scale perspective, Richemont would want a salesperson to be able to sell any and all of the house brands…and to do so well, obviously. I can’t be... 

So... Here's another thing you probably didn't know...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 18th, 2022-16:27
There are hundreds of Duty Free stores in airports run by DFS (Duty Free Stores) which is an LVMH company. LVMH's DFS-branded stores carry brands from all the major groups, including competitors to LVMH. In fact, many DFS stores carry tobacco products, Ri... 

Love it…your points all nicely made. 👏🏼

 
 By: ArmisT : July 18th, 2022-23:08
A lot of food for thought came out of this thread. It’s a testament to this forum and the wide spectrum of interesting people that take part in it (but excluding myself…I’m still soaking it all in and learning).

We are all learning. At every level, we are all learning.

 
 By: patrick_y : July 19th, 2022-00:20
When Tiffany & Co. used an old MS Dos computer system (they only switched away from this system about 5 years ago), the salespeople had to be really smart with the computer. Moreover, they had to remember codes. You had to punch in codes and commands.... 

Excellent idea!

 
 By: amanico : July 18th, 2022-05:42

Alas...

 
 By: amanico : July 16th, 2022-17:20

Multiple brands have decided to establish boutiques in Boston . . .

 
 By: Mach : July 16th, 2022-17:37
AP, Rolex, and A. Lange & Söhne. We will soon have a Patek boutique. Unfortunately, to your point, they don’t want to sell pieces! IMHO none of them respect true watch connoisseurs. I’ve visited the AP boutique multiple times. I’ve had no purchase his... 

I have a feeling this strategy of just displaying and try, but nothing to sell is….

 
 By: Clueless_Collector : July 16th, 2022-18:08
To let you have the perception of any watch is now scarce and difficult to get. When they offer you a two tone ladies one day and you’re jumping up and down, they have succeeded.

+1

 
 By: ArmisT : July 16th, 2022-23:01

Sad.

 
 By: amanico : July 17th, 2022-20:37

Don't forget Richard Mille!

 
 By: blau : July 16th, 2022-18:29
Definitely the boutique in Boston with the most expensive nonexistent watches.

:))))

 
 By: amanico : July 17th, 2022-20:37

Yes… I know Rolex went to this try on approach

 
 By: Darron : July 17th, 2022-19:54
But it is funny that Lange is opening a boutique when there are no watches for sale. There is that other point about the workforce of adding knowledgeable folks but again nothing to sell. Of course I am still unsure of the limited output is due to less ou... 

Politics of a group?

 
 By: amanico : July 17th, 2022-20:38

Excellent point Nico.

 
 By: Costa (aka Connie) : July 19th, 2022-00:35
Well done.

Alas, truly sad.

 
 By: amanico : July 19th, 2022-05:31

Disappointed that I'm hearing this first here

 
 By: blau : July 16th, 2022-18:37
As a member of the Boston Lange collecting community I *might* have expected better

Lange overall is doing their best...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 16th, 2022-19:26
The transition phase is always a little messy. But introduce yourself to the team at the boutique. And register your watches on the Lange website.

I had actually emailed ALS a couple months ago asking when they expect to open in Boston…

 
 By: ArmisT : July 16th, 2022-21:07
but never got a response. But it’s a minor point, although a response saying we don’t know yet would have been meaningful.

Interesting news

 
 By: Aquaracer1 : July 16th, 2022-22:42
Also being a Boston local, I did enjoy visiting SCL. More specifically, their watch salon was impressive, with a small area dedicated to ALS. Did not buy an ALS there, but did buy a new ALS strap for my u/d. The experience was excellent

Thanks for clarifying that they're not totally open yet! The person who called called it a "flagship" is mistaken...

 
 By: C_W : July 17th, 2022-00:17
I recently got clarification about this. Lange has 7 flagship boutiques - Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo, New York, Dresden, Shanghai, and Dubai. They are listed here . Supposedly, flagship boutiques will have access to rare and discontinued pieces.

I'll check in on Friday or Saturday

 
 By: dhendolan : July 17th, 2022-01:07
If they've fully open by then. I'll post updates if they've open.

Just note that the website suggests to call to make an appointment…

 
 By: ArmisT : July 17th, 2022-03:30
but it also says they’ll accommodate walki ins as they are able. I doubt there’ll be an overcrowding situation, but consider calling ahead if that’s the only reason you going to Newbury.

Boutique is open!

 
 By: thekman : July 19th, 2022-21:24
For those saying why open a boutique without inventory, actually it is fully stocked. Tons of Lange 1s, Saxonias, Datgraph, even a titanium Odysseus for display. I think the only thing I missed seeing there was a Zeitwerk.

Very nice! Thank you for the update!

 
 By: ArmisT : July 19th, 2022-21:56
Do you know if they’ve been getting a lot of visitors? Great to know they have inventory. 👏🏼

Lange Boutiques vs Authorized Dealers

 
 By: rld : August 4th, 2022-19:36
Sorry I am so late to this party! Lots of interesting and insightful points that I have enjoyed reading. I can add a few comments with regard to some points and questions earlier in the thread, based on my own experience. With regard to the (former) ADs i...