Dials for divers
Supreme craftsmanship for the striking faces of the SeaQ from Glashütte Original
Discussions
about the making of highly refined mechanical watches usually begin
with a description of the sometimes extraordinary complications and
sophisticated decorative finishing of the movement. Equally important,
however, and no less elaborate, is the manufacture of exquisite dials –
since they represent, after all, the face of a watch. As striking as
they are, they are the first to catch the viewer’s eye, and are
doubtless the reason for many a purchasing decision. Glashütte Original
is one of the very few watchmakers in the prestige segment to have its
own dial manufactory situated in Pforzheim, a city in the south of
Germany. This capability makes it possible to create highly individual
products that lend every timepiece from Glashütte Original an
unmistakable appearance. The most recent examples are the dials on the
new SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date diver’s watches, which are made using a
number of different characteristic techniques.
Punching dial from the blank SeaQ
Cleaning polished SeaQ dials
Polished SeaQ dials
Application of sunray finish SeaQ
Sunray finish SeaQ
Sunray finish SeaQ
Diver’s
watches are characterised by their striking appearance. As a rule,
black dials predominate, presenting highly visible numerals, indexes and
hands with generous luminous coatings along with solid metal cases with
rotating bezels to set the dive time. There are good reasons for all of
this, of course. In contrast to most wristwatches, with an almost
limitless range of different shapes and colours, these watches must also
meet specific design requirements. Dictated by their primary purpose
and use in diving, it is particularly important that one be able to read
the time easily – in daylight and in the dark, on land and under water.
But as great as the similarities among diver’s watches may be, there
remains sufficient freedom of design to create an individual look and
feel. Glashütte’s designers already proved this point in the late 1960s
when they developed the first Glashütte diver’s watch. The look they
created at the time, with its eye-catching Arabic numerals and striking
hands, served as an inspiration for the new diver’s watches from
Glashütte Original: the SeaQ and the SeaQ Panorama Date.
Cleaning dials after_black galvanisation SeaQ
Application of numerals and index lines in light primer colour SeaQ
Application of numerals and index lines in light primer colour SeaQ
Tampon with numerals and index lines in light primer colour SeaQ
Application of logo and further details SeaQ 1969
Application of logo and further details SeaQ 1969
SeaQ 1969 dials after pad printing
The
debut models are presented with a total of four different dial
versions. Of these, the two for the SeaQ models are 30.5 mm in diameter,
and in terms of colour and design are closely modelled on their
historic predecessors. The slight difference between the versions lies
in the lettering on the dial. While on the edition limited to 69 pieces
one finds, as with its historic predecessor, “25 Rubis, Shockproof”, the
unlimited model presents “Glashütte i/Sa“. The two 33.1 mm diameter
SeaQ Panorama Date dials, produced in black and blue versions, set a
number of new accents. Along with the larger window for the Panorama
Date at 4 o’clock, the most obvious differences vis-à-vis the smaller
SeaQ versions are the applied numerals and indexes, which give the dial
as a whole a three-dimensional quality.
Quality control of finished SeaQ 1969 dial
Assembly of finished SeaQ 1969 dial
Final inspection of finished SeaQ model
SeaQ with historic dial samples
A great deal of effort for a perfect result
Every
dial starts out as a blank, which is punched from a strip of metal, in
this case brass. At the same time two studs at the edge and later four
so-called catch holes are pressed into each blank, which serve to lock
it in place at the subsequent processing stations. In a further step the
date window is created, later enhanced by a stamped decorative frame.
Subsequently a central hole is inserted where, in the end, the hands
will make their rounds. Additional, almost invisible holes are drilled
for the SeaQ Panorama Date version, into which the small feet of the
appliques are fitted and then welded in place at the back. To complete
these basic steps the dial is then punched from the blank, giving it its
definitive diameter.
Dials in different stages SeaQ
Dials in different stages SeaQ
SeaQ 1-39-11-06-80-70
SeaQ 1969.1-39-11-01-80-33
SeaQ Panorama Date
Embossing frame window SeaQ Panorama Date
Punching dial from the blank
Application of sunray finish SeaQ Panorama Date
Sunray finish SeaQ Panorama Date
At
this point the surface treatment begins. With the assistance of a
grinding and polishing machine and a special liquid (emulsion) the dials
are first ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. This is the
necessary prerequisite for the subsequent application of the sunray
finish, which is performed using a vertically rotating brass brush. And
now colour comes into play. Galvanisation gives the dials their black or
blue hue, depending on the version. The dialmakers need a great deal of
experience and sustained concentration in order to produce identical
results with the same high quality for the entire edition. Once the
dials have been rinsed in clear water and dried they are ready for the
application of numerals, indexes, the logo, lettering and additional
details.
Cleaning dials after black galvanisation SeaQ Panorama Date
Application of logo and further details SeaQ Panorama Date
Mounting of numeral and index appliques
Numeral appliques
Numeral_applique
Quality control of finished SeaQ Panorama Date dial
Assembly of finished SeaQ Panorama Date dial
Final inspection of finished SeaQ Panorama Date model
Details on the dial SeaQ Panorama Date with blue dial
Details on the dial SeaQ Panorama Date with blue dial
Dials in different stages SeaQ Panorama Date
Dials in different stages SeaQ Panorama Date
Subsequent
processing of the two dial versions follows diverging paths. For the
smaller SeaQ models the numerals and index lines are first applied to
the dial in a light primer colour. A soft rubber pad (tampon) then picks
up the ink from an etched plate (cliché) and impresses it with
exceptional precision onto the surface of the dial. The same process,
using white printing ink this time, is performed for all the other
details. In a final step the primed numerals and indexes are carefully
filled in by hand with Super-LumiNova luminous material in a colour
known as “Old Radium”. While for the SeaQ Panorama Date the logo,
lettering and minute ring are also added using the pad printing
technique, the numeral and index appliques are mounted by hand. These
appliques are also inlaid with Super-LumiNova luminous coating – in this
case in bright green or white (on black or blue dials, respectively).
To complete the process the dials undergo rigorous testing for quality
before setting off on their journey to Glashütte and final assembly.
SeaQ PD 1-36-13-01-80-70
SeaQ PD 1-36-13-01-80-70_1-36-13-02-81-34 close
SeaQ PD__1-36-13-02-81-34