Vacheron Constantin

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Hands on review of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in steel

No one can deny it: Vacheron Constantin's Overseas collection is enjoying growing success and the waiting lists for the various models are getting longer and longer. There are several reasons for this phenomenon. First of all, there is a very specific market context. The rising interest in versatile, practical watches with styles derived from the models created in the 1970s by famous designers such as Gérald Genta or Jorg Hysek has led to a shift in demand from collectors who are tired of waiting forever for pieces such as the Nautilus or Royal Oak. And then there is the reason that seems to me to be the most important: the inherent qualities of the latest Overseas collection that was launched during the SIHH 2016.

This latest iteration of the Overseas collection took its first steps with three references, the three-hand-date model, the chronograph model and the small model, which introduced a new family of in-house movements (calibres 5100, 5200 and 5300) that comply with the criteria of the Geneva Seal. Very quickly, the Overseas collection powered by these newly designed movements was completed by the Worldtimer and Dual Time models, whose vocation as travel watches perfectly suited its style and atmosphere. Beyond the manufacture movements and the wide range of complications, the Overseas collection also benefits from its design, which is certainly more consensual than that of the previous generation, but which offers enough character to preserve its charm, singularity and interest. But the master stroke on the part of Vacheron Constantin was the introduction of the quick-change strap system thanks to a very clever design. In a few seconds, the leather or rubber strap is replaced by a steel bracelet. To do this, simply clip each end of the bracelet to the case. Removing the strap is also very easy.

For me, this watch is a great success for a very simple reason: the additional complication takes full advantage of the accomplished aesthetics of the Overseas collection. I would even say that it tends to improve it because of the thinness of the case, whose thickness (10.39mm) is lower than that of the three hands-date model (11mm). The key to this success lies in the architecture of the 2160 automatic movement with peripheral rotor. Thanks to its optimised design, its thickness is only 5.65mm, which is an excellent performance for an automatic tourbillon calibre with a power reserve of 80 hours (at a frequency of 2.5hz).

An alchemy is created. Thanks to the high diameter (42.5mm) / thickness ratio, the watch offers fluid and slender lines that give it elegance. However, at no time does it appear flat. This is due to the work on the steel case which highlights the shape of the bezel and brings touches of relief.
 
This is also where the tourbillon plays an important role. Despite the watch's slenderness, the tourbillon contributes to this effect of relief and depth. Its observation allows to clearly distinguish 3 levels. First of all, the bridge whose size does not exceed the width of the opening. This is clearly an asset for me from an aesthetic point of view, not being an absolute fan of tourbillon bridges that are too present and visually telling. Then, the cage inspired by the Maltese Cross whose shape is a real signature of Vacheron Constantin. Finally, the regulating organ that takes advantage of the low frequency. The combination of the slow oscillations of the balance wheel and the revolution of the tourbillon cage is a real treat for the eyes.

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