*** SIHH 2012: A. Lange & Söhne ***

Jan 30, 2012,00:44 AM

Lange had a good year; the collection was smallish but ample. Two new movements were launched, the first being the L082.1 of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.




This is an instantaneous perpetual calendar (everything jumps instantaneously) displaying the calendar information on the dial, without any overlapping indications in true Lange 1 style. Initially I didn’t like to the design but have warmed to it; the dial is smartly done – everything is legible and well laid out.








Over on the back the tourbillon is visible, but barely. It is a hacking tourbillon, like that on the Cabaret Tourbillon. But given it can be hardly seen I wonder about the need for it, especially since the perpetual calendar is already impressively sophisticated.





Like the Lange 1 Daymatic, this has a central rotor in gold and platinum with relief decoration. The case diameter is 41.9 mm.


For now the Lange 1 perpetual will be made in platinum in a limited edition of 100 pieces. Regular production rose gold will be available next year.


The other new calibre is in the new Grande Lange 1 which at 40.9 mm is smaller than the old Grande Lange 1. This has an entirely new calibre that is actually slimmer than the Lange 1 movement. Besides the slimness, the most obvious difference in the new movement are the separate cocks for the escape wheel and fourth wheel, quite an unusual feature for a Lange movement.







The new calibre means that the dial proportions are exactly the same as the original Lange 1, no overlapping subdials as on the old Grande Lange 1. However, the case proportions differ from the Lange 1. The new Grande Lange 1 is slimmer at 8.8 mm high and has shorter lugs, giving it a slightly more rounded look. But despite the changed proportions it still looks good. This is available in platinum, rose or yellow gold.





Also new is the Lange 1 Time Zone with the addition of luminous dial and hands, cased in white gold.






Now on to the Saxonia range. The Saxonia Thin, originally only in rose gold, is now available in white gold with silver dial. It looks even more austere in this guise.




The Saxonia Automatic now comes in ladies’ versions as well, in the three colours of gold with mother of pearl dials and diamond bezels.






And last is the new Lange Datograph Up/Down. This is the much talked about improvement of the iconic Datograph.




The case is now 41 mm with some changes to the movement though it remains largely the same. Though not obvious the date has been enlarged for the new, larger dial so as to keep the same proportions as before.




More apparent is the simplified dial design, with baton indices instead of Romans and a cleaner minute track. And of course now there is a power reserve at six.





Importantly the movement now has a 60 hour power reserve, compared to the short 36 hours before. The balance wheel is the in-house adjustable mass balance, and some of the chronograph levers have changed.







But fundamentally it is the same watch. All of the changes are incremental. Perhaps after 13 years more could have been done.


While I don’t like the power reserve, the new Datograph is visually so similar to the old version that it’s difficult not to like it. Existing Datograph owners don’t need to own this, but it remains a brilliant option for someone looking for a high-end, traditionally executed chronograph.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 01:51:33

More posts: DatographDatograph Up/DownLange 1Lange 1 DaymaticLange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual CalendarSaxoniaSaxonia AutomaticSaxonia Thin

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SIHH by SJX: A comprehensive Report on SIHH 2012

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-00:40
The intention of this report is to cover as much as possible of what happened at SIHH, entirely with my own photos and writing. This year’s report covers 19 brands – 15 that exhibit inside SIHH and four independents outside the fair. SIHH 2012 seemed more...  

*** SIHH 2012: A. Lange & Söhne ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-00:44
Lange had a good year; the collection was smallish but ample. Two new movements were launched, the first being the L082.1 of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. This is an instantaneous perpetual calendar (everything jumps instantaneously) displayi...  

Good review my friend

 By: BluNotte : January 30th, 2012-22:39
I appreciate this very much! Stephen

*** SIHH 2012: Audemars Piguet ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-00:44
As has been written extensively elsewhere, 2012 is the 40 th anniversary of the Royal Oak. Much of the Royal Oak range was remade. AP presented several very attractive watches were unveiled, but there was no spectacular complication. Before going into the...  

The new rose gold RO on bracelet with black dial is a beauty.

 By: BABKA : February 1st, 2012-11:35
Thanks for posting all this.

*** SIHH 2012: Baume & Mercier ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-00:51
Last year saw drastic and successful revamp of Baume & Mercier. George Kern of IWC took over, along with several other IWC alumni, and gave B&M a clearer identity – the Hamptons lifestyle, beaches, boating and clapboard houses. More important the pr...  

*** SIHH 2012: Cartier ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-00:51
As usual Cartier had the largest collection of all, with something for everyone. From the accessible luxury Tank Anglaise to the impressive, haute horlogerie new minute repeater. The Tank Anglaise is the third major iteration of the Cartier Tank after the...  

Tank Anglaise

 By: DrFrenchboy : February 3rd, 2012-12:08
Very thorough report SJX, Thanks! Do you know if the Tank Anglaise comes with a solid back or exhibition back?

The large has an open case back. [nt]

 By: SJX : February 3rd, 2012-21:52
No message body

*** SIHH 2012: Girard-Perregaux ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-00:59
As has been the case for some years, Girard-Perregaux had a hushed year. All the novelties, save for the minute repeater, are variants of existing models. New to the Vintage 1945 line is the Large Date Moon Phase. The case is 36.10 mm by 35.25 mm and avai...  

*** SIHH 2012: Greubel Forsey ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:02
Greubel Forsey unveiled three new models this year. The first, the GMT, is a new calibre, while the other two are variants of existing models. The GMT is a multi time zone watch paired with the 25° Inclined Tourbillon 24 Seconds. This is not the existing ...  

*** SIHH 2012: IWC ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:07
Each year IWC focuses on a particular collection and this year it was the year of the pilot’s watches. The booth was staged to look like an aircraft carrier, complete with a flight simulator. Over dozen new pilot’s watch models were launched i...  

*** SIHH 2012: Jaeger-LeCoultre ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:10
JLC had a fair number of novelties spread across several collections. Unlike most other SIHH brands, it had a new headline complication in the form of the Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon. This has two key features – a multi-axis tourbillon and an instantaneou...  

Swiss or German?

 By: Timewarp : March 16th, 2012-11:06
Friends kindly look at the JlC minute repeater, it has the makings of a watch from the Saxony region of Germany, Glashutte. The 3/4 plate, the jewels on removable screws, the removable balance bridge on screws and the sun burst guilloche on the plate. We ... 

*** SIHH 2012: Montblanc ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:15
Montblanc is a latecomer to high-end watchmaking but it has been making good progress with the Collection Villeret 1858 and the more affordable Rieussec and TimeWalker lines. Three new models joined the Villeret collection, the first being the Villeret Ta...  

*** SIHH 2012: Panerai ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:19
Panerai had a significant number of new Radiomir watches this year. Several of the novelties use the large, manual wind P.3000 movement launched last year. Starting with the Radiomir California 3 Days PAM424. This has a 47 mm case and the P.3000. Unfortun...  

*** SIHH 2012: Ralph Lauren ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:23
Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewellery Co. is an interesting entity. The brand is most commonly associated with clothing that isn’t that expensive but its watches are expensive. So the brand perception doesn’t quite equal its price. Yet the watches ar...  

*** SIHH 2012: Richard Mille ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:31
Richard Mille had a fairly small collection this year. At the very top of the range is the RM056 rattrapante chronograph with tourbillon – cased entirely in sapphire. The RM056 uses the new RMCC1 movement, which is a significantly improved version of the ...  


 By: BABKA : February 1st, 2012-11:39
The 50,53, and 56 blow me away...all superb!

*** SIHH 2012: Roger Dubuis ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:34
After last year’s revamp of the Roger Dubuis brand engineered by Georges Kern, the brand is proceeding to fill out its model range in four different segments. 2011 was the year of the La Monegasque, intended as a sophisticated dress watch. And so 20...  

*** SIHH 2012: Vacheron Constantin ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:37
Compared to previous years, Vacheron Constantin had a noticeably smaller collection. The big news was the new Malte collection, the launch of which marks the centenary of the first tonneau watch from VC. Four new models make up the redesigned Malte. At th...  

*** SIHH 2012: Van Cleef & Arpels ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:40
Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled fewer watches at SIHH than before, though there were several more shown but not officially launched. The simplest is the Pierre Arpels. Named after the man who designed it, the Pierre Arpels is a slim dress watch with the Piage...  

The two "Poetic Wish" were my fav watches of the Fair.

 By: foversta : January 30th, 2012-12:40
I will come back to them! Thanks SJX for the great pics! Fx

*** De Bethune ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:42
De Bethune always presents interesting and beautiful timepieces. This year is no exception. The DB28 of last year is now available in two new guises. The first is the DB28 Aiguille d’Or (“golden hand”) which has a gold insert on the minu...  

*** Franck Muller ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:43
Franck Muller launched the Giga Tourbillon in the Cintree Curvex last year. At 20 mm in diameter, the tourbillon is the biggest in a wristwatch. Twin barrels with four mainsprings give it a 10 day power reserve. In the Cintree Curvex case the Giga Tourbil...  

*** Ludovic Ballouard ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:45
Ludovic Ballouard’s second model is the Half Time. Like his first watch, the Upside Down, the Half Time is an unconventional way to tell the time but has no additional complications. That will be the guiding principle for future watches as well. The...  

*** Urwerk ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2012-01:46
Urwerk unveiled the rose gold version of the UR-110 Torpedo. Previously only in steel and ZrN coating, the front plate is now in brushed rose gold. The sheen of the metal makes the polished bevel around the front plate more obvious, and it forms a strikin...  

Incredible job SJX

 By: Geo : February 1st, 2012-05:27
Now I understand why I did not see you at the SIHH. Great work! GEO

HQ report, as expected. :)

 By: VMM : January 30th, 2012-07:40
Thanks for taking the time and sharing. Best, Vte

Indeed, excellent coverage...

 By: Ornatus-Mundi : January 30th, 2012-08:18
I detected much of what I liked. Will have to digest further! Cheers and, SJX, thanks so much! Magnus

That is a Herculean effort SJX. Great coverage and some

 By: 219 : January 30th, 2012-08:34
stunning photos. I would not be surprised that you would not care to see another watch for some time to come (no pun intended)! Many thanks for the coverage and at some point, we really should start a 'watch of SIHH thread' with a vote on the best watch o... 

Thanks for the great report and the excellent

 By: timerider : January 30th, 2012-11:50
pictures, you have a great talent to get to the heart of the matter. See you sometime in Singapore. Best, Tim

The best SIHH unveiled !

 By: CristianDE : January 30th, 2012-12:38
Great reports and photos as always! Respect ! Cristian

Thanks a lot SJX for this awesome report!

 By: foversta : January 30th, 2012-12:39
A perfect wrap-up of what we saw a few weeks ago. Thanks! Fx

Amazing work SJX. Thank you. [nt]

 By: oronlaville : January 30th, 2012-22:05
No message body

Must have given you a lot of work, thanks ! [nt]

 By: Mark in Paris : January 31st, 2012-07:25
No message body

Best report

 By: masanori : January 31st, 2012-09:00
As usual, this is the best SIHH report!

It'd take one hours just to go through the photographs. I don't want to start...

 By: Ruckdee : January 31st, 2012-09:35
...thinking about the time you spent on the whole report. Thank you so much for bringing these pieces to us in a very lifelike manner. Ruckdee

Epic does not begin to describe this report!

 By: ocwatching : January 31st, 2012-10:29
Awesome work SJX! All the new releases in a neat package. THANK YOU so much! and I am in agreement with many of your comments on the various pieces. Great work!

No Pateks?

 By: reesereport : January 31st, 2012-19:27
No Pateks?

PP release their new 2012 collection this month in Bazel ..

 By: tumahuk : January 31st, 2012-23:07
Rolex as well. Khalid

Next month, my friend :-)!

 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 1st, 2012-03:36
no text

Thank you, SJX. That is a good effort! [nt]

 By: ling5hk : February 2nd, 2012-20:26
No message body

Incredible and probably exhausting effort on your part

 By: Hororgasm : February 4th, 2012-11:06
As with past reports...very informative, useful and thorough. Thanks mate Best, Horo

*** SIHH 2012: Piaget ***

 By: AnthonyTsai : February 5th, 2012-10:33
PuristSPro Piaget SIHH 2012 Report: Public Comment Edition by MTF http://piaget.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-881/pi-5122593/ti-770228/s-0/...  

Phantastic report!

 By: nitediver : February 11th, 2012-14:01
A big thanks for the report. Stefan