Let's come back to the 70eme >>>
I made a quick post when I bought it last summer.
All I can say is that it's still honeymoon, and that it's now time for a more in depht review.
We don't very often speak of this 70eme, this is a pity as, IMHO, this is a great Reverso, which perfectly celebrates the launch of this watch in 1931.
It seems that people prefers the 60eme, and honestly, I don't know why.
Even if I find this 60eme very appealing with its nice dial and for the 1st time, a movement in 14 carat Rose gold, and its GT case.
Historically, this 60eme has some true interest, as it's the first of a wonderful series of Limited Editions and complicated Reversos, that's true.
But, Horologically speaking, the 70eme goes farer than the 60eme.
The 70eme is the first to be produced in the XGT case, with a 8 Days Power Reserve, a Big Date, and a movement in 18 carat Rose or white gold, depending of the Rose Gold or platinum case.
Here the 70eme in Rose Gold Press Files )
The platinum 70eme ( Press Files too ):
The approach of the watch is very positive, as its packaging is at the level of this time keeper, luxurious, with its nice wooden box, the same than the Reverso Platinum Nr2, but in a green khaki, covered by a nice cloth. You know that you will see something nice...
The inside part of the box:
And all you need is inside, even the gloves and a loop!
The impression, at the first look you have on it, is that the finish is on a very high level, as I will show you on my own pics, now...
1st, the dial:
The combo is one of the nicest possible...Ruthenium + Silver powder numbers + Central Guillochage + Little touches of white, blue and gold...in a quite perfect balance.
The several indicators are well located too.
I even prefer it to the Rose Gold version which has a more normal all white dial, IMO.The ruthenium dial gives an interesting xontrast with the platinum case, less warm than with the Rose Gold, but personnaly more appealing, for me...
All the functions are very easy to read at first glance.
Then, let's have a look on the movement, and let me tell you that the show goes on...
The level of finish is very high, you immediately know that you don't have a current version
in front of you...
Amazing, isn't it?
This movement ( Cal 879 ), beats at 28 800 Vibrations per Hour, has 25 jewels, and is very reliable and accurate, as it goes 10 seconds faster each 8 days.
Another very great and positive thing is that you only need 50 turns of crown to completely wind the 8 Days movement.
I also own a Portuguese 7 days ref 5000,a,d you need much more than 50 turns, even with the Patek 5100 10 days I hunt so badly!
Some thoughts about this movement...It's not only accurate, but also very well finished...
Obviously, JLC made a great work on it.
Here are some macros that will speak more than words.
The Swan Neck, the plates, the wheels, even the screws, all is perfect!
Now, the general volume of the 70eme...
Yes, the case is thick, but it gives some consistence to this watch, which doesn't appear too thick.
The proportions of the whole watch seems and are coherent, IMO.
And in another angle:
The dimensions on the paper are as when you see side by side a GT Case and a XGT...
GT cases are: 26 x 42 x 9,5 mm.
XGT are: 29 x 46 x 12, so we'd say 3mm more in L, l, and H...Not that big!
You will note on these pics that the charm and the great pleasure or appeal of the ruthenium is that the color changes a lot with the light, from a light color to a darker one...It's purely magic!
On the Verso side, we have the same feeling of nice proportions. No colors, only the light which is playing with the materials and the depht of the finely decorated caliber.
The volumes are really enhanced on the verso side!
Even the back of the watch is nicely finished, but I never saw pics of it, so I decided to make some...As it also gives a good idea of the volume of this Reverso.
And on the wrist, not too big , not too small....An evident presence, with an advantage any other watch can share...
Can you wear a Datograph this way???
A last thing about the strap:
I very often made critics about the straps and buckles JLC put on their watches, even on big pieces, like the MMR.
For example, on the MMR, the strap looks nice, but too thin at its extremity, due to the buckle that doesn't allow thicker straps...
Another thing on the Titanium or Platinum MMR, the buckle is for the 1st one in ...Steel instead of titanium, which should be more logical for a Titanium case, and in White Gold instead of platinum , for a Platinum Case!!!
On this 70eme, the strap, a deep blue crocodile, is very good and well chosen, the extremity is not that thin, and the buckle is, depending on the version of the case, in Red Gold or in Platinum, which is a very good and coherent thing!
I don't get the reason why this Reverso didn't have the success it deserves.
Maybe it has been misunderstood, maybe because of its revolutionnary size at the moment ( 2001 ),
maybe the launch of the Grande Date one year after....Maybe also its price, which was and still is very high...
My conviction is that this 70eme is another great "anniversary" watch, with an amazing finish, nicely presented and designed, classy,, elegant but wearable in any circumstances...
Well, a keeper!
I hope that this post gives it justice, and restablish it in its real range, the significant,appealing, and highly desirable watches.
Here a "pornwatch" pic, in company with another beautiful dressy watch, the Calatrava 5196P:
Thanks for reading and viewing it.
Nicolas This message has been edited by amanico on 2008-03-05 12:28:16 This message has been edited by amanico on 2008-03-08 03:57:23 This message has been edited by Dje on 2008-03-11 06:19:55