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A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 7: Chopard Manufacture - First 20 Years
The year 2016 marks a public and personal milestone in my watch collecting history.
Though this is a series of articles about the history of Chopard Time and Jewels, I find that my personal journey with Chopard is inextricably intertwined.
Chopard pays public homage to the first watch in the L.U.C collection: the L.U.C 1860 launched 20 years ago at the creation of Chopard Manufacture. That classic model with its hand-guilloché dial combining discreet elegance and sobriety with the first Chopard Manufacture movement: the L.U.C Calibre 1.96 now renamed as 96.01-L is celebrated with the launch of a new L.U.C 1860 XPS extra flat watch.
On a personal level, this is my 10,000th on-line post as a PuristS.
I first started lurking on the old ThePuristS forums in 2001 before summoning enough courage to submit my first post. With all the naiveté of a tyro, I dared to ask, "Why do we need a minute repeater in the 21st century when we have electric table lamps?" Instead of being shot down as a troll as I would have been on other forums, the kindly denizens of ThePuristS merely answered my question and gently started my journey on the horological Path. I remember 'ei8htohms' and some chap called 'ThomasM' being particularly helpful. Later, I learnt from such illustrious characters as 'Marcus Hanke', 'PeterCde', 'AlbertoS', 'SuitbertW' and 'Alex argg'.
Eventually, I was asked to moderate the Wine, Food and other Epicurean Delights (WFED) and Travel forums, mostly because I ate a lot and travelled a great deal 
After that, I was invited to moderate the Chopard forum, mostly because I asked a lot of questions about L.U.C before buying the L.U.C 1860/1 and L.U.C Quattro watches. I retired from the forums for a couple of years when my "real" work as a pharmaceutical physician was too demanding. I gather that "stuff happened", during which, Paneristi . com was repaired by ThePuristS and re-established. That's when 'Anthony Tsai' and others joined the PuristS team. I came back to the moderator team as CEO of PuristSPro. Like US President Obama said: "Yes we can!"
What have I learnt?
In many ways, I take stock of the principles that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele followed to revive true watchmaking in Chopard with the establishment of the Chopard Manufacture in 1996. It forms the criteria by which I judge haute horlogerie brands.
Four essential values
The Chopard “House” is built on four key pillars:
- watchmaking and jewellery know-how dedicated to ensuring impeccable quality;
- respect for tradition, family values; and the importance placed on passing on expertise;
- creativity backed by innovation, brilliantly exemplified by models such as the L.U.C and Mille Miglia watches, as well as by Happy Diamonds and Haute Joaillerie creations;
- and finally, Chopard’s commitment to philanthropic and responsible patronage activities.
Karl-Friedrich, a trained goldsmith and watchmaker, is responsible for the men’s watch division, Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier and its related developments, as well as handling the technological and commercial aspects of the company.
The family members regularly consult with each other regarding decisions on corporate development involving issues such as global strategy, production, distribution, new designs and new products. Their approach is guided by a concern for detail, a cautious attitude, and a policy of small incremental steps.
The determination to ensure that everything is self-financed is another of the company’s strengths.
Independence, an essential value for Chopard, is also expressed by its independent retail network. The first own-name boutique was opened in 1983 in Hong Kong, at the same time as the retail division was established, so as to ensure direct contacts with consumers. Chopard boutiques are now dotted around the world, including in Geneva, Moscow, Dubai, Kuala Lumpur, London, Mumbai, Tokyo, Almaty, Saint Barthélémy, Gstaad, Marrakech, Shanghai, Costa Mesa… In 2007, a new boutique concept designed by French architect Thierry Despont was introduced with the inauguration of a flagship store at 709 Madison Avenue, New York – followed in 2009 by the opening of another new-look boutique in Singapore.
Vertical integration
Eager to reduce its dependence on suppliers, Chopard has persistently striven to achieve vertical integration of production.
“We make almost everything ourselves, from cases to straps. Ideas are almost instantly translated into reality thanks to our two watch and jewellery design studios” - Karl Scheufele III
Chopard crafts and professions
Uniting 45 professions
The Chopard manufacturing sites host an impressive range of engineers, prototype makers, designers, goldsmiths, watchmakers, turners, tool-makers, polishers, smelters, engravers, mechanics operating CNC machinery: all are actively involved in making watch or jewellery models, self-winding movements and other vital components.
Fundamental training
“Our family history is the cornerstone of Chopard, laid by artisans and handed down from generation to generation. This know-how is infinitely precious.” Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
Rebirth of the “Manufacture”
Watch companies that develop and produce their own components and watches entirely in-house are a rarity.
Convinced that the company should make its own watch movements in order to honour its horological past, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele persuaded his father – and the family council – that the future lay in mechanical watches. Karl Scheufele allowed his son to proceed with preparations, and the project was secretly launched in 1993.
Complexity meets innovation
In order to create an original calibre, Karl-Scheufele chose the most complex path: the movement was to be equipped with a micro-rotor to ensure maximum flexibility; automatic winding in both directions to enhance reliability; a substantial power reserve; and the possibility of integrating complications. It was also to feature original execution and aesthetics. The fledgling “Manufacture” was set up in the Val-de-Travers to ensure discretion, and work on Calibre ASP 94 began in 1993. However, having proved to be far too noisy and unsuited to the desired production strategy, it was subsequently abandoned. More prototypes followed and the final version became the Calibre 1.96.
Fleurier
Historians know of Fleurier as synonymous with marvelous enamel pocket watches and base movements or ebauches. In 1920, the Fabrique d'ebauches de Fleurier (FEF) began making movements for others. In 1975, the 'quartz crisis' hit Fleurier as it did everywhere in Switzerland. By 1979, FEF had ceased trading and the dreaded 'blue envelopes' of termination dropped onto hundreds of door mats.
In 1995, Chopard signed a lease to rent parts of the old FEF building (by then owned by SWATCH Group) and machinery was installed. The 2nd floor of the building became Chopard Manufacture SA on 1st January 1996. The L.U.C Adventure had began....
Producing excellence
Operational testing on the new movement was conducted in Fleurier. As activities began to expand, the building was bought up and completely restored in 2000. From the initial dozen or so employees, the workforce in Fleurier had grown to 145 people. Over 45 million Swiss francs have been invested. In 2006, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, an avid timepiece collector, inaugurated the L.U.CEUM, where historical watches and clocks dating from 1500 to the present day are displayed with models from the Chopard L.U.C collection.
A new history of time
Within a few years, five different calibres were designed and produced: the L.U.C 1.96, the L.U.C 1.98 (featuring four-barrel Quattro technology); the L.U.C 1.02 (Tourbillon); the L.U.C 3.97 (Tonneau) and the L.U.C 11 CF chronograph movement. Some of them are equipped with new technologies developed by Chopard Technologies, the Chopard group research and development division.
For those five calibres and particularly the L.U.C Lunar One, the PuristSPro Purity Prize was awarded to the manufacture and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2009.
Over the years, the even more movements have been meticulously optimised and fitted within exceptional timepieces such as:
L.U.C 1860
1997: the first model in the L.U.C collection, equipped with Calibre 1.96. Issued in a limited edition of 1860, this watch was voted Watch of the Year in Switzerland.
L.U.C Quattro
2000: an authentic patented innovation. Its four barrels (two sets of two stacked barrels) guarantee a nine-day power reserve.
L.U.C Tonneau
2001: featuring a tonneau shaped self-winding L.U.C 3.97 movement equipped with a micro-rotor.
L.U.C Tourbillon
2003: by launching its own COSC-certified tourbillon movement, Chopard Manufacture earned its place in the watchmaking stratosphere. This movement boasts a series of innovative technical characteristics including the world-first Chopard-patented Variner variable-inertia balance ensuring enhanced rating precision.
L.U.C. Regulator
2004: a miniaturised version of the regulator clocks historically used by watchmakers to set their watches. This model with off-centred hands was voted Watch of the Year in Switzerland.
L.U.C Lunar One
2005: perpetual calendar model with an original orbital moon-phase display, equipped with the L.U.C 96 QP movement embodied a wealth of sophisticated horological expertise.
L.U.C Chrono One
2006: presented to mark the 10th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture, this model is powered by the L.U.C 11CF calibre – the first integrated chronograph movement from the Manufacture and featuring several major patented innovations.
L.U.C XP
2006: the first ultra-thin watch in the L.U.C collection enshrining the principle of “Less is more…”. This model won first prize in the ultra-thin category at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix.
L.U.C Twist
2006: this original model had an offset crown at 4 o’clock and small seconds at 7 o’clock. The off-centred crown ensures optimal comfort on the wrist.
L.U.C Strike One
2007: the first L.U.C model automatically striking the hours in passing.
L.U.C Lunar Big Date
L.U.C Lunar Big Date
2009: this model with orbital moon phase and large date.
L.U.C Louis-Ulysse - The Tribute
2010: the pocket-watch which can be transformed into a wristwatch, in homage to Louis-Ulysse Chopard, with reinterpretation of a pocket-to-wrist conversion invention of Karl Scheufele I of EsZeHa.
L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon
2011: the first watch in the world to bear the three most prestigious Swiss watchmaking certifications: COSC, Poinçon de Genève and Fleurier Quality Foundation label.
L.U.C 1963
2014: celebrating the 50th anniversary of Chopard acquisition by Scheufele family.
L.U.C 1963 Chrono
2014: the first L.U.C manual winding flyback chronograph with date (and a PuristS variant in steel case without date).
L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
2014: celebrating 10 years of QF certification in a chronometer
L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon
2015: the first L.U.C Grand Feu enamel dial tourbillon.
L.U.C Perpetual T
2015: the first L.U.C perpetual calendar tourbillon.
L.U.C Perpetual Chrono
2016: the first L.U.C perpetual calendar chronograph complication.
L.U.C Perpetual Twin
2016: the first L.U.C pure perpetual calendar watch without moonphase.
Some of these models have been subsequently introduced in “Tech” versions, a contemporary expression of the L.U.C collection at the crossroads between tradition and avant-garde. These include the L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Twist, of which a 100-piece limited edition equipped with Chopard’s first silicon escapement was introduced in 2009.
Entirely hand-crafted and decorated by expert artisans, L.U.C watches are chronometer-certified by the COSC (apart from the L.U.C XP which has no seconds hand) and many of them also bear the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. A few models have also received the Fleurier Quality Foundation certification.
Throughout the production process conducted between the Meyrin premises and Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, all L.U.C watches are subjected to a battery of stringent test procedures.
Thanks to these creations combining classic lines with amazing innovations, Chopard is steadily establishing its reputation in the demanding world of Haute Horlogerie.
TIMELINE
1996: Manufacture Chopard, Fleurier started
2006: L.U.CEUM Museum, Fleurier opened
2016: 20th Anniversary of Manufacture Chopard
Acknowledgements for Facts and Images:
Chopard Manufacture Archivist A.W.
L.U.CEUM (Chopard Musuem), Fleurier
Scheufele Family
Dr. Melvyn Teillol-Foo, 2016.
A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 1: First Generation CLICK following URL to read:
www.watchprosite.com
A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 2: Second Generation CLICK following URL to read:
www.watchprosite.com
A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 3: Third Generation CLICK following URL to read:
www.watchprosite.com
A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 4: New Beginnings CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com
A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 5: Happy Diamonds CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com
A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 6: Production Sites CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com
www.watchprosite.com
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A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 7: Chopard Manufacture - First 20 Years
Congratulations on the 10.000!
Melvyn, big congrats to you on 10K posts. As for Chopard, I'm still struggling
Ten Thousand!
I also add my congratulations to your 10.000th post
Congratulations Melvyn on your milestone....
