A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 2: Second Generation

Dec 18, 2015,20:25 PM
 




Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier

Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier



1919 - 1941 brought the winds of change



Workshop of Louis-Ulysse Chopard (right) in the 1890s

Workshop of Louis-Ulysse Chopard (right) in the 1890s


Chopard built on their reputation for Precision and Decoration

Following the death of Louis-Ulysse Chopard on 30 January 1915 in Sonvilier, his son Paul-Louis and grand-son Paul-André inherited the family business. Chopard pocket chronometers continued to be popular for gentlemen and the ladies loved their gem-set wristwatches. At it's zenith, Chopard had 150 workers. 


Evolution of the L.U.C logo

Evolution of the L.U.C logo


In 1922, Paul-Louis Chopard opens a subsidiary company in La Chaux-de-Fonds that later becomes the firm's headquarters.

In order to establish themselves globally, Paul-Louis relocated the company in 1937 to Geneva, already a renowned watchmaking centre.


List of watch components produced by Fabrique de Montres L.U.C 1925-1930

List of watch components produced by Fabrique de Montres L.U.C 1925-1930

During the World War II, watch sales crashed and Chopard was struggling to survive as all it's core markets were engulfed in conflict.




Spiral of Debt in Europe

Germany was forced to pay for the First Great War. In 1921, these "reparations" were set at 269 billion Marks ($32 Billion) later 'reduced' to 226 billion Marks, still an astronomical sum. Reparations was by providing coal, steel, intellectual property (e.g. Aspirin) and agricultural products. In 1923, Germany was unable to deliver coal and steel. In response, French and Belgian troops occupied the Ruhr River valley inside Germany. When the government began printing more money to pay its debts, it created astronomical "hyperinflation". Life savings of 100,000 Marks could not buy a loaf of bread. In 1924, a plan of "borrowing from Peter to pay Paul" meant that a cycle of loans was created: U.S.A. loaned money to Germany, which then made reparations to other European nations, which then used the same money to pay off their debts to America. Therefore, any problems with the U.S. economy could severely hurt Germany and the rest of Europe; leading to problems with immigrants.  Doesn't that sound familiar?

Karl Scheufele I anticipated the spiral of debt by stopping trade in jewellery in the 1920s and replacing business with watches. He presented his collections in Germany, Austria, Eastern Europe and even in China.

 Eszeha bow clip watch

Eszeha bow clip watch


 Eszeha clip watch 1912

Eszeha clip watch 1912



Crazy Times in the Art Deco period 1925-1938

What was it about the Art deco era? Perhaps it was the crazy rebellion of female youth unshackled from the Victorian-Edwardian conformities and thrust into the renovation after the first Great War? Fashions were changing and businesses had to change too.  “Pleasure was the colour of the time.” ― Harold Clurman, American Theatre Director.

Perhaps it was best summed up by Agatha Christie in 'The Murder on the Links': “Now I am old-fashioned. A woman, I consider, should be womanly. I have no patience with the modern neurotic girl who jazzes from morning to night, smokes like a chimney, and uses language which would make a billingsgate fishwoman blush!”

My favourite description of the period is by that debonair wit, Noël Coward: “She's a self-conscious vampire ... and she goes about using sex as a sort of shrimping net.”


Eszeha Art Deco watches

Eszeha Art Deco watches


Eszeha Art Deco watch sketch

Eszeha Art Deco watch sketch


Eszeha Art Deco watch sketch

Eszeha Art Deco watch sketch


Whatever the reason, rich colours, bold geometric shapes and lavish ornamentation were "In".  Chopard and the Scheufeles made full use of this new trend.

The Art Deco influence can be seen in Eszeha “wallet watches”. These were watches incorporated into dedicated cases made from Chinese-lacquered or enamelled silver and gold, adorned with precious stones and geometrical motifs; essentially, secret tiny travel clocks in pieces of jewellery.


Sketches for Eszeha valise like travelling clocks in the 1930s

Sketches for Eszeha valise like travelling clocks in the 1930s




Sketches for Eszeha wallet watches or travelling clocks in the 1930s

Sketches for Eszeha wallet watches or travelling clocks in the 1930s



Karl-Scheufele II on the boat to New York in the 1925

Karl-Scheufele II on the boat to New York in 1925


In 1925, Karl Scheufele I sends his son Karl Scheufele II to New York for two years with 50 dollars in his pocket. Karl Jr made his way across the USA from East Coast to West Coast by working in a bag factory and washing dishes along the way. He learnt about Life and about the Americans.


Karl Scheufele II

Karl Scheufele II


Karl Scheufele I was considering buying a Swiss watch factory but the Third Reich kaiboshed such plans.

World War II brought jewellery and watch production in Pforzheim to a standstill as manufacturing capacity was redirected to weapons and war materials.

On August 5, 1941, while out on a walk in the Black Forest with his grandchildren Johan and Rüthchen, Karl Scheufele I died suddenly and unexpectedly on the eve of his 64th birthday. That same day, his son was shot in the head and severely wounded on the Russian front. Upon his discharge from the military in 1942, Karl Scheufele II succeeded his father at the head of the company.


TIMELINE
1915: January 30, Death of Louis-Ulysse Chopard.
1921: Paul-Louis Chopard opens a subsidiary company in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
1925: Karl Scheufele I sends his son Karl Scheufele II to New York for two years with 50 dollars in his pocket.
1937: Chopard relocates to Geneva.
1941: August 5, Death of Karl Scheufele I.


Acknowledgements for Facts and Images:

Chopard Manufacture Archivist A.W.
L.U.CEUM (Chopard Musuem), Fleurier
Scheufele Family


Dr M. Teillol-Foo, 2015


A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 1: First Generation  CLICK following URL to read:
www.watchprosite.com

A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 3: Third Generation  CLICK following URL to read:
www.watchprosite.com

A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 4: New Beginnings CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com

A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 5: Happy Diamonds  CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com =

A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 6: Production Sites  CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com

A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 7: Chopard Manufacture - First 20 Years  CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com

A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 8: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele - Early Years. CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com  

A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 9: Caroline Scheufele - Early Years. CLICK following URL link to read:
www.watchprosite.com=

A Brief History of CHOPARD Time and Jewels part 10: Noblesse Oblige
www.watchprosite.com=



 

This message has been edited by MTF on 2016-08-24 19:34:06


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I hope the 35 part comment in the first installment was not a joke

 
 By: KMII : December 19th, 2015-18:33
Because your series is both very enjoyable to read and highly informative. In any case, am eagerly awaiting the next part already!

The number of parts is flexible depending on definition of 'brief'

 
 By: MTF : December 20th, 2015-02:25
"35 parts" started as a joke but the more I delve into the history, the more anecdotes I discover with side branches... Being an 'editor' is tough. How to keep it interesting for the casual reader without geeky details.......sigh. Regards, MTF

Ready for 3

 
 By: kolosstt : December 19th, 2015-23:09
MTF Thank you for these posts. For me they are interesting and it is obvious that till the end it will underline the character of Chopard as family business. Kind regards Kolosstt

I should stop the series now....

 
 By: MTF : December 20th, 2015-02:27
You have already got the final sentence of the last paragraph of part 35! MTF

It's like a James Bond movie, isn't it?

 
 By: kolosstt : December 20th, 2015-03:03
We all know how it ends but the story in between makes us watch the movies anyways. Don\'t stop, keep them coming! Please. Cheers, Kolosstt

Thank you Melvyn!

 
 By: heartbreaker : December 22nd, 2015-13:05
I've always been fascinated by the logos evolution and I've appreciated a lot the various L.U.C logos you've posted. What's the meaning of the one with the "Erguel" writing above a beehive? The Eszeha sketches are soooo beautiful!!! Both the Art Deco ones... 

Erguel

 
 By: MTF : December 23rd, 2015-00:35
Thank you. I don't know for sure about 'Erguel' since the L.U.CEUM is closed for Christmas but it is a name of the local area. During the 11th century, the Lords of Erguel, or Arguel, moved from Franche-Comté and settled in the village of Sonvilier. The k...