amanico[JLC Moderator]
338386
SIHH 2017: Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture and Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer.
Feb 13, 2017,04:45 AM
For once, I will compare two novelties, which were unveiled a few week ago, at the SIHH.
The Classico Manufacture:
The Classico Manufacture houses the Cal UN 320 which is an automatic movement, with a silicium hair spring and anchor escapement, all in house, offering a power reserve of 48 hours and allowing a date setting forward AND backward, which is one of the brand's speciality.
The steel case is 40 mm big, and 9, 60 mm high, water resistant to 30 meters.
Last but not least, the dial is made in enamel grand feu.
The Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer:
Here we have another manual winding movement, the Cal UN 113, offering a power reserve of 60 hours, and, no surprise, a date setting of the annual calendar forward AND backward, as well.
The difference between the triple calendar, the annual calendar and the perpetual calendar is that, on the triple calendar, you have to change the date when the month doesn't end at 31, on the perpetual calendar, you never have to change the date, and on the annual calendar, you have to do it once in a year, at the end of February.
The UN 113 features a silicium escapement and spring.
The case is typical from the Marine line, with these absent lugs. It is in steel, 43 mm big, and water resistant to 100 meters, which is what you expect from a watch called " Marine ".
The dial is made in enamel grand feu, too.
Now, the comparative picture, and the reason why I decided to introduce both of them in the same post...
Between these two, the Classico Manufacture would have been my choice... If only there was no date spoiling this superb dial.
Indeed, I fell in love with the case, these superb lugs, its dimensions, and, of course, its dial. If only...
Now, curiously, the same round and simple date is present, at the same place on the Marine Annual Calendar. But here, it is logical, consistent with the purpose of the watch; as we are in presence of an annual calendar.
So, I am not disturbed by it.
Of course I would have preferred a Grande Date, rather than this simple one. But it is not shocking.
And this blue enamel grand feu is sumptuous.
What are your thoughts on these two?
Best.
Nicolas