SIHH 2017: Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture and Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer.

Feb 13, 2017,04:45 AM
 

For once, I will compare two novelties, which were unveiled a few week ago, at the SIHH. 


The Classico Manufacture: 





The Classico Manufacture houses the Cal UN 320 which is an automatic movement, with a silicium hair spring and anchor escapement, all in house, offering a power reserve of 48 hours and allowing a date setting forward AND backward, which is one of the brand's speciality. 

The steel case is 40 mm big, and 9, 60 mm high, water resistant to 30 meters.

Last but not least, the dial is made in enamel grand feu. 


The Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer: 

Here we have another manual winding movement, the Cal UN 113, offering a power reserve of 60 hours, and, no surprise, a date setting of the annual calendar forward AND backward, as well. 

The difference between the triple calendar, the annual calendar and the perpetual calendar is that, on the triple calendar, you have to change the date when the month doesn't end at 31, on the perpetual calendar, you never have to change the date, and on the annual calendar, you have to do it once in a year, at the end of February. 

The UN 113 features a silicium escapement and spring.

The case is typical from the Marine line, with these absent lugs. It is in steel, 43 mm big, and water resistant to 100 meters, which is what you expect from a watch called " Marine ". 

The dial is made in enamel grand feu, too. 

Now, the comparative picture, and the reason why I decided to introduce both of them in the same post... 




Between these two, the Classico Manufacture would have been my choice... If only there was no date spoiling this superb dial. 

Indeed, I fell in love with the case, these superb lugs, its dimensions, and, of course, its dial. If only... 

Now, curiously, the same round and simple date is present, at the same place on the Marine Annual Calendar. But here, it is logical, consistent with the purpose of the watch; as we are in presence of an annual calendar. 

So, I am not disturbed by it. 

Of course I would have preferred a Grande Date, rather than this simple one. But it is not shocking. 

And this blue enamel grand feu is sumptuous. 

What are your thoughts on these two? 

Best.

Nicolas


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You said it all ;-)

 
 By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : February 13th, 2017-05:30
According to the position of the date, i assume the case might have been design 2 mm smaller. I am the guy who always take much care about the ratio caliber/case. However, a really nice elegant watch. Do you have any photos of both the movements?

You added it all. :)

 
 By: amanico : February 13th, 2017-05:34
I don't have any picture of the movements, but I will take care of that asap. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, my friend. Nicolas

I have a true preference for the Classico. I particularly love the lugs which offer, in my opinion, a very nice "modern crab style".

 
 By: Alkiro1 : February 13th, 2017-06:03
In addition, the Classico is much more dressy than the Marine (sportier style - definitely an UN choice I suppose) with a case size easiest to wear at least for me. The difference of indexes\' thickness has a great importance in my choice too. To conclude... 

These are both beautiful, I like the blue grand feu.

 
 By: Spangles - Dr. Tabby : February 13th, 2017-06:13
Could someone explain the link between Ulysse Nardin and Russia, please?

Absolutely stunning dials

 
 By: alphabeta81 : February 13th, 2017-06:47
And on the date issue, I agree with you. On the annual calendar, it needs to have a date and actually a big date would have cut into that lovely dial more, so I like the small date,. On the Classico, there was no need for the date. I have talked to brands... 

You have a point on the Grande Date. As for movements including a date, it is quite easy to remove the parts dedicated to the date.

 
 By: amanico : February 13th, 2017-08:36
JLC does it very well with the Cal 956. With date on the TT Polaris, without date on the TT Deep Sea Alarm.

Good points on the JLC

 
 By: alphabeta81 : February 13th, 2017-11:06
even if the brand said "no changing of the movement, no changing of the case or crown" - well they can just make the dial so it covers it up! Not rocket science! JLC did a nice job on the new sector dial chrono to not have the date vs the master chrono do... 

I'm trending toward the Classico

 
 By: rnaden : February 13th, 2017-06:57
The lugs and the case is just super, but as you've said - the date is a little distraction from a very nice and harmonious watch. As for the Marine - I have an issue with the date eating into the subdial track and I personally think that there is too much... 

Well, even with the date, I prefer the Classico

 
 By: MichaelC : February 13th, 2017-07:22
Likely not enough to acquire, but certainly I like it enough to want to see it in person. The Annual Calendar, I think this model has a nice dial, but as time marches on, I'm bothered by the strap attachment. This case type could really use an update, IMO... 

Aah... interesting! Happy to wait...

 
 By: MichaelC : February 13th, 2017-09:17
This hobby is one which teaches patience ;-) A nice side effect of the passion...

Hmmm... you have already reported on the Marine Tourbillon and Regatta...

 
 By: MichaelC : February 14th, 2017-08:19
I will guess this one (which I do not recall seeing posted before?): Or perhaps some new platinum is more your speed, Mr. Nico... ...  

Kind of scary, us nuts know each other better...

 
 By: MichaelC : February 14th, 2017-09:13
than our own wives do I think! PS - UN always seems to sneak things onto their website I have never seen or heard about. Despite my misgivings about navigating their site, I still check frequently in hopes of finding a new nugget! And this new chrono inte... 

Correct! ;) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : February 14th, 2017-09:29

Yes, true. I think I was recalling some remarks

 
 By: MichaelC : February 15th, 2017-06:33
In another thread. Nonetheless, I hope the report is on this on, maybe with some live shots too ;-) ...  

That option is not available? (nt)

 
 By: Ronald Held : February 14th, 2017-13:06
NT

AFAIK, no. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : February 14th, 2017-14:39

I will. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : February 16th, 2017-15:32

Thanks! (nt)

 
 By: Ronald Held : February 17th, 2017-13:43
NT

My preference is the Classico as well. The blue enamel dial is a joy to behold and the more of the dial the better. I do prefer the the prior edition with applied numerals rather

 
 By: Mitch K : February 18th, 2017-22:21
than the printed one in the present models. the annual calendar is interesting but the dial is filled enough to distract from the beautiful dial work.