SIHH 2007 - Jaeger-LeCoultre
Photos and text by Su JiaXian (SJX)
© April 2007 by Su JiaXian and PuristSPro.com com
2007 Basel and Geneva fair reports sponsored by Master Watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin.
In contrast to previous years, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented a small range of new watches this year; it was a year of quality, not quantity. A new Master Compressor Diving range was premiered at SIHH. The flagship model is the Master Compressor Diving Pro Geographic (try saying that underwater!), a serious-looking diver's watch with a mechanical barometer. The depth gauge is contained in the chamber on the side of at the case at 9 o'clock. It works via a membrane that reacts to the pressure applied to the top of the chamber, similar to the principles of the Atmos clock that runs on changes in atmospheric pressure. Pressure is then indicated by the blue hand on the dial. This watch also has a world time function, though I struggle to understand why it is necessary.
Also launched as part of the Diving range was a Master Compressor Diving Chronograph, available in rose gold or titanium (limited to 1500 pieces). It is water-resistant to 1000m. A Master Compressor Diving GMT was shown alongside the chronograph, unfortunately I do not have photos of it. All the diving watches are available on rubber coated metal bracelets as an option.
The new diving range also encompasses watches for female divers. Both a GMT and chronograph model are available, both are presented in white with matching rubber coated metal bracelets or straps.
JLC presented a new model dedicated to Valentino Rossi, 7-time MotoGP world champion, the Master Compressor Chronograph 46, with 46 being the bike number of Mr Rossi. This will be a limited edition of 746 pieces.
The second watch in the Master Compressor Extreme World series was presented this year, hot on the heels of the Extreme World Chronograph of 2006. It is the Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm, in essence a generously sized alarm watch with world time function. It is the same size as the Extreme World Chronograph and measures 46.3mm wide in diameter. Despite the massive case, the alarm buzz is clear and easily audible, quite a feat given its large size. JLC achieves this by running the gong around the circumference of the movement, instead of attaching it to the caseback as in earlier Memovox alarm watches. Three versions of this watch will be available, one is the normal production steel and titanium model, while the other two are Valentino Rossi "46" limited editions, available in pink gold and titanium version or titanium.
The Squadra Reverso, the sports version of the iconic flip-case watch, now sports black PVD pushers and crowns, giving rise to the new name - Squadra Black. Both the SquadraHometime and Chronograph GMT are available in this new configuration, and both models are offered in steel or a limited edition of 500 pieces in rose gold. All the Squadra Black watches are also available on a rubber coated metal bracelet.
We conclude with the DuomètreàChronographe, a foudroyante chronograph that measures times down to 1/6 of a second. This watch offers the same 'lightning-seconds' chronograph complication as seen earlier with the F. P. JourneCentigraphe. But unlike the Centigraphe which contains one barrel feeding two gear trains, the DuomètreàChronographe has two barrels and two geartrains, achieving the same goal as the Centigraphe of preserving timekeeping while running the chronograph. Despite the different executions of a similar complication, I suspect that neither watch offers much of a significant functional advantage over the other. The JLC does have a longer power reserve of 50 hours for each mainspring, but the resulting watch is slightly bigger.
Aside from the pictured pink gold model, the other case options for the DuomètreàChronographe are platinum or a limited edition of 300 pieces in yellow gold.
JLC has introduced at least one major complication each year for the past few years, and each time the resulting watch tended to be large and thick. In contrast the DuomètreàChronographe is a manageable 42mm wide and 13.5mm in height. Although it is not a small watch and the dial is complicated, the DuomètreàChronographe looks elegant and is reminiscent of vintage chronographs from the mid-20th century. Comparison between the F. P. JourneCentigraphe and the DuomètreàChronographe are inevitable. Both watches are unquestionably beautiful. More often than not, F. P. Journe trumps JLC in terms of aesthetics, but this time, JLC emerges a cut above the Journe. Bravo JLC! N.B. I was unable to take photos of the other JLC complication unveiled at SIHH, the lubrication free Master Compressor Extreme Lab tourbillon. For more on that watch, check out the excellent Jaeger-LeCoultre forum on this site. |