Marcus Hanke
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My Basel '07 tasting notes, Pt. 4: Concord's touch-and-go
Concord's touch-and-go
by Marcus Hanke
by Marcus Hanke
I feel old. You know, that kind of “I know the world since decades, and now come all the young people and declare my life as ‘forgotten heritage not worth to be preserved’”-old. Sometimes, this hurts - even if the young people are right. But it is this heritage, or the awareness of how the things were some time ago, because one had experienced them, that let us feel old when, suddenly, massive changes occur. One of the first times I really felt old that way was when I saw the “Pan Am” letters being removed from their location on the Manhattan building. I grew up with Pan American airlines, they were among those companies made from iron and stone, that would remain forever, even if the rest of the world disintegrated.
Not even fierce optimists would attribute the Swiss watch manufacturer “Concord” the same importance and era-shaping role as Pan Am. But it was one of first watch brands I became aware of when I entered the wonderful world of online watch talk. Back then, Concord was practically unknown in Europe, despite producing timepieces with the “Swiss Made” label. As I learned from my new friends in the world wide web, Concord had its management located in the United States, which explained the somewhat neo-baroque styling of their products. Interesting for me the brand became because of its use of Zenith movements. That Concord was the only brand aside Zenith itself, using the brand new “Elite” movement, was especially noteworthy.
However, the design of the Concord watches was in my eyes a bit too busy, and slowly, the brand disappeared from the important European watch magazines, and from my sight, in spite of its large booth at the Basel fair, that rarely offered interesting novelties.
But then I saw the messages about Concord’s new start, with a new president at its helm, Vincent Perriard. In spite of the rather sparse information I read there, I was intrigued, and made an appointment with the Concord staff during the Basel fair.
I have admittedly no idea why exactly I was interested in the news from Concord. In my past years, I have seen many new CEOs of the “young and energetic type” doing the “complete renovation”, realising “revolutionary new ideas”, developing “new spirits”, reinventing the wheel. Too many of them failed but a short time after, because their concepts where not so revolutionary as they had thought. Why should this case be different? And: Why would I, confessing fan of timeless watch designs, be attracted to picture of a bold, oversized watch design within the current trend, that even hid more than it revealed? Maybe it was just that: curiosity.
The consequence of this appointment was unexpected: I am now presenting myself as a Concord fan.
The reasons are easily explained:
The first and most important one is the new president’s personality: Vincent Perriard’s enthusiasm is highly infective. I think you need a special two-layer ABC-protection suit, independent oxygen supply and ultra-effective optic and acoustic filters in order to withstand his charm and uncomplicated attitude. I had neither, so I gave in immediately. Above that, Vincent appears to be absolutely realistic about what has to be done, and about his company’s chances. Openly he discussed strengths and weaknesses, potential problems and possible triumphs. And when I have learnt a lesson during my time reporting about watches, it is that a really committed CEO, someone convinced not only by his or her brand, but also by the uniqueness of the mechanical watch business, that such a person can accomplish miracles, that a pure account manager, a shareholder value’s attorney, would never be able to.
I have the impression of Vincent being fully aware of the difficult balancing act that is necessary between the traditionalism of the anachronistic nature of mechanical timepieces, and the modernism currently demanded from designs and materials used. And also I think that Vincent has a good team, that knows how difficult it can be working for a new and unknown brand, even if it is as old and well-known as Concord. That already precisely describes the unique nature of the challenge: Concord is an old brand, but struggling with obsolescence and oblivion. Often it is easier to resurrect a brand from the dead, or to create a completely new one from scratch, than to bring new life into a ruin that is still alive. While in the former case, there is no ballast to take with at all, the latter has to integrate the history and tradition, but still leave enough room for the new to dominate. It is similar to building a new house by using the walls, but giving it a totally new appearance, instead of using a plain basement.
The second reason for me becoming a Concord fan is the product, or - to be more specific, the C1 line, currently consisting of two models. I already stated that normally, I dislike the current modernistic trend of combining every material found somewhere in a spaceship factory’s leftover disposal yard into an oversized watch. Some of you might now state that the Concord C1 exactly fits into that category. But the watch’s factual appearance is different: It is a watch of the third millennium (at least of its first decade ...), and does not want to hide its substance. Equipped with modern, yet standard movements, made by ETA and Dubois-Dépraz, the watch’s main asset, the bold design, was made possible by the competence of the case and dial manufacturers. It is an example of how a modern watch can look, without appearing artificially overcrowded with various, mismatching design elements.
The C1 Chronograph is equipped with the new ETA Valgranges A07.211, with 36.60 mm diameter an enlarged version of the Valjoux 7750. This movement, a COSC certified chronometer, fills the 44mm case better than the original 7750 could do.
While the movement does not feature any surprisingly innovative technology, the watch’s focus lies on its design; and this is great. First of all, the C1 is a massive watch: 44mm diameter, as I said already, more than 16mm high, rated watertight to 200 meters. However, despite its size, the C1 does not sit like a cooking pot on the wrist. This is due to the bracelet, which is hinged directly on the case’s edge, enabling it to adapt itself perfectly even to smaller wrists.
One thing that somehow does not match the engineered design of the case, is the sapphire displayback. Since it does not reveal a really rare or technically unique movement, a well-engraved solid steel back would appear more appropriate to me. Oh yes, I nearly forgot: an 18k pink gold case is also available.
The Big Date Automatic has a smaller sapphire window in the back
The large crown and the perfectly smoothly operating pushers are made from a steel/rubber material mix. The same combination is used on the bezel, which will certainly become an instantaneously identifiable design of Concord watches: Eight massive, square blocks of rubber protect the thick sapphire crystal and the steel bezel. They are connected by a rubber ring, and eight screws permit a quick replacement, should the rubber “shock absorbers” be damaged.
All watches are available with either steel or rubber bracelet, but careful: If you opt for a rubber bracelet in the beginning, it won’t be easy to refit a steel bracelet afterwards. The reason lies in the manufacturing process: The case is finished (brushed and polished) with the bracelet attached to it, which results in the contact area between case and bracelet being perfectly smooth, with barely any gap or step between the two (I love that detail!). Consequently, a bracelet added to the watch at a later time would never look like one being on the watch from the beginning.
Notice the barely visible step where the bracelet is attached to the case
A highlight of course is the multi-layered dial, featuring carbon-fibre elements, a disk-shaped permanent second and subdials with several steps. Looks really good in reality, and, thankfully, there are no distorted Arabian numerals, but only straight markers. Aside the black/silver carbon dial, there is also a dial version with silver engine turning.
This looks also stunning, but is even more difficult to read. More about this problem a bit later. The date window, permitting the view on a series of days, is an element that is used frequently nowadays. I disliked it at first, but start getting used to it. In Concord’s case, though, a separate frame does not leave doubt about which day exactly is today, unlike some other brands’ products.
One element deserving some additional fine-tuning, in my opinion, are the hands. While the official press text states the dial’s “perfect readability”, this is certainly not the case, as soon as the hands enter the scene: Above the various metal-colour dial parts, the equally coloured hands are practically invisible. In my opinion, such a strongly designed watch should offer perfect legibility under all environmental and lighting conditions, but this does not work yet. When looking at the pictures shown here, please take into account that most of them were made with flash, so the high lighting contrast enhances the edges of the hands, making them better visible than they would be in ambient light. If I may bring forward a humble suggestion: this design can live with a bold colour, so why not adding bright red hands? Even heat-blued hands would improve the legibility, both of the carbon-version, but especially on the silver engine-turned dial version. I should note, however, that the watches I have seen in Basel were still prototypes, or pre-series pieces. So it is possible that the final production series might differ in one or the other aspect from these.
Besides the chronograph, the C1 series also offers a three-hands watch, the C1 Big Date Automatic. It uses a Dubois-Dépraz version of an ETA movement, with small second and a big date display at 12. I like that one very much, especially the carbon dial version, which is in fact highly legible, since there are fewer silver elements on the dial. Additionally, the rectangular pattern of the carbon fibres repeats the trademark design of the square rubber “shock absorbers” on the bezel; a very nice watch indeed.
In order to also show a more feminine side, there is a ladies’ C1 as well, both in steel and pink gold. Unlike the “masculine” C1, these do not have any rubber elements on bezel and crown. My wife, who is reviewing all the pictures I take home from the Basel fair every year, immediately liked the Lady C1, so it must be good (never question your better half’s taste! - Married men’s rule # 1). No, honestly: I like them as well, but maybe the steel version could also need a touch on colour on the hands, making the watch more legible.
Having presented the new Concord watches now, it is rather clear that they do by no means fit into what the brand had offered before. So it is not astonishing that the Concord team will execute the clean cut: The complete line of watches offered before the C1 will be discontinued. Vincent Perriard does not want to play the game of “satisfying all possible tastes on the market”. Instead, this decision is for him a sign of honesty. The C1 symbolises the brand’s new direction and self-understanding: bold, a little bit playful, with a lot of imagination. Customers looking at the C1 will see the straight face of the brand itself, and not just one of a hundred faces. Personally, I like that face that I see here, and I sincerely hope many watch enthusiasts will feel the same. I wish Vincent Perriard and his team all the best, so Concord will not be but a brand that “I have known once, but is now forgotten”, but one that I am glad to see again and again.
Regards,
Marcus
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2007-05-28 13:19:04 This message has been edited by MTF on 2007-06-02 07:43:41
More posts:
My Basel '07 tasting notes, Pt. 4: Concord's touch-and-go
Concord's touch-and-go by Marcus Hanke I feel old. You know, that kind of “I know the world since decades, and now come all the young people and declare my life as ‘forgotten heritage not worth to be preserved’”-old. Sometimes, this hurts - even if the yo...
Concord will be successful, Marcus, because . . .
. . . they've figured out that the latest fashion trend in blinged-out, steroid-fed, triple-material futuristic/technical watches can actually be appealing by toning it down and using only two materials in harmony with clear, concise lines. Bravo, Concord...
Great review and comments Marcus
I really like how the C1 bracelet hinges off the case. That right there should cut down the required wrist size by probably 1/2 and inch IMO, and a practical design that I hope many other brands implement. Cheers, Anthony
The Big Bang has indeed begun a new universe as Biver had claimed.
This Concord version is certainly a more "rounded" follow thru. The biggest evolution from Big Bang to appear aesthetically, to me at least...and the rounded edges is a good thing. It will be most fascinating to see the response from the market, which I p...
Terrific review Marcus..
I would humbly suggest to Mr. Perriard that the C1's metal bracelets need more design elements, as they seem IMO to be rather bland as compared to the dials thouroughly modern look. I would suggest either rubber or carbon fiber inserts would work very nic...
Until now this big shuttered booth at the entry of the Baselworld show
never really interested me. I would pass it just like the bathroom in front of it... And I must confess that this wasn’t any different this year. That was until now! Your article changed my attitude completely and made me very curious to know more about t...
Wonderful analysis Marcus...
Thank you for the subtle insights about the layout and bracelet issues that only a keen observer would notice. I am curious about the subdial display which depicts the seconds. Do both triangular indicators rotate? I noticed that the positions were differ...
Yes, the whole silver-coloured element rotates over the markers ...
... and there will of course be a part 5 to this series, dealing with Eterna and Porsche Design. It will be shorter than this one, though ... Regards, Marcus
Some answers to questions read recently
Hello, I take the opportunity to enter the discussion. My name is Vincent Perriard, in charge of Concord. - The small second (at 9 o'clock) is in fact a disc turning around (the entire disc turns). This gives an optical vision, which is nice and smart. - ...
