For press material for this model, please click here.
Will begin with the special model which commemorates the 125th Anniversary,
a tribute to the founder - Mr Sotirio Bulgari.
This
model consists of yellow gold, pink gold and white gold with silver
dial and hunter caseback and is in limited production of 125 pieces each metal.
(Note : the model in these pictures is a white-gold case. Due to the lighting, the case colour varies)
From the aesthetic perspective, a major modification was done.
The first thing some of you may notice is the logo " BVLGARI BVLGARI" has been removed from the bezel.
It
is a challenge to come out with another design to pace the 70's classic
which is memorable and evoked emotion (regardless of the polarity).
The case design is totally revamped . Bold and yet elegant, and very recognizable.
The
case design is unique. The lugs are one of the signature features. The
45° taper cut gives an illusion of a petite lugs connecting out from
the caseband. My first thought was to question if the slim tapered lugs could withstand long-term wear and shock.
After seeing the construction of the lugs integrated into the caseback at
converging angles, it makes sense that this design provide a high tensile
strength despite the minimal contact area with the case.
Another advantage of this case construction is it enables double-finishing which is near impossible for polishing tools.
( Will illustrate at another secondary post : CASE-Making, please click here to view
)
The
125th Anniversary and the Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel model cases,
are of full lustrous finishing whereas the rest of the models are
double-finishing, which I prefer.
The hinge of the hunter caseback on this 42mm diameter case of 11.35mm thick.
The “SB” monogramed crown (on every Sotirio
Bulgari watch) is of diameter 5.5 mm and with 22 teeths.
The 'tab' (at 2'o clock position) to open the caseback.
A closer look of the dial ...
Observe the clean and polished edge of the date window, it is pretty encouraging to see this
inconspicuous area being well-taken care of and BVLGARI did not round the obtuse interior angles.
Another impressive work, the arch managed to stack accurately above the date-window. Super alignment!
This 125th Anniversary edition somehow projects the alphabet "X" from
the two diagonals of the lugs,
the two arcs on the dial and on the movement.
However, after asking the BVLGARI folks, they mentioned the arcs are actually 'arches' (inverted 'U' shape).
From architectural history, 'arch and columns' were related to the
ancient great Greek and Roman
engineering, and the Bulgaris were
descendants of an ancient family of Greek silversmiths who
later moved
to Rome, growing their business till present day.
Thus the arch-design on the new Sotirio's range is relevant.
An interesting bit of history, with the know-how of 'arch and columns',
the Romans unsurpassed
engineering progressed extremely fast and many
huge monumental architectures were built.
The arch somehow could
support enormous weight. The Colosseum & the long Roman Aqueducts
are two awesome examples.
The rehaut (minute chapter ring) is azure finished (circular guilloche).
Another look at the clean edge of the date-window.
The date marker is by the 3 o'clock polished hand-applied index.
Besides giving an overview frontal view of the Sotirio Bulgari 125th Anniversary Edition, the
above pic with the purplish tint on the crystal also provided a hint the sapphire crystal is convex
(which cost more to fabricate) and double-sided anti-reflective coated.
The arches top surface is vertically-satine finished.
The edges of the arches are neatly beveled too, and some focused effort have been made to
ensure consistent beveling of the interior angles of the four corners framing the the BVLGARI
logo cartouche.
Both the Hour and Minute hands do not have any counter-weight. They are made in the
“ajouré” (skeletonised) form.
Notice the centre area of the dial is côtes de Genève, just like on the movement and followed
by opalin treatment, sort of matt finish by sandblasting.
The above picture shows the various types of finished surfaces on the rehaut, super-polished
indexes/indices, the chamfered and polished screw, the opaline treatment on the Geneva Stripes
and the vertical-brush finish on the arch.
zooming out ...
Another interesting detail - the rotor actually resembles the arch design design above, with similar
surface finishing too!
and full view of the dial.
Now turning our attention to the hunter caseback ....
I would prefer Mr Sotirio Bulgari's signature to be underneath the hunter case, saving the top
surface for personalised message engraving. An intelligent input which is also logical from a
BVLGARI Executive: a personalised message is private, and would be more appropriate
to be 'hidden' inside .
One thing I like about this hunter caseback, it could be fully 180° open however, would have to
bear the sight of the hinge protruding from the side.
For other watches with hunter caseback which could only open till 90°, typically the hinge is hidden
at one side of the lugs.
The diameter of the hunter caseback is near to 42mm and with 18K gold, the weight could be substantial.
To hold the caseback securely so as not to easily flip-out, a mini snap-fastener is incorporated
to latch the caseback and yet, could be opened with ease and the right amount of force.
The coupling is mounted into case.
The stud onto the hunter caseback...
The chamfered stud.
Moving to the movement, the calibre inside is an automatic BVL 250 ( it consists of 250 components).
It is customized from the Vaucher 4000 by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) for BVLGARI.
The Vaucher 4000 calibre took about 4 years to develop and also being modified to be used in
RM 005 & RM010 and other high end watches.
A closer look of the movement ...
Some works have been put in to beautify the movement to the level of high horology requirements
and open up more space to view the movement.
Not forgetting to plant in the signature too - the Arch.
There are 2 arches - one on the 18K gold rotor and the other on the bridge. From either the dial side or
the movement side, will have a balance view of 2 arches per side.
Actually, upon careful observation, there is a 'secret signature' on the balance cock/balance bridge too,
a little arch cut-out !
The Glucydur balance is with Nivarox 1 Hairpspring, which is supposedly to be the top grade.
The BVL250 beating at 28’800 vibrations per hour (4 HZ) has a double-barrel with a power reserve
of 55 hours, slightly low for a two barrels.
The main plate and bridges are in maillechort and rhodium plated.
Wonder if the bridges would age gracefully with patina and character after 5 years?
The movement is decorated with 5 different types of finishings :
1) two different
diameters of “perlage” for the plate
2) “traits tirés” treatment at perimeter of the plate
3) “côtes de Genève” on bridges
4) satiné circulaire”
finishing on the rotor weightand
5) “colimaçonnée” on the rotor arms
All the holes (which the jewels seated) were countersunk and polished, as well as all screw heads were
polished and chamfered.
Understand from a BVLGARI watchmaker, the personalization of the movement took about 3
months to be finalised.
One particular area which required repeated correction was to fine-tune the rotor, when stopped
above the bridge with the arch cutout, they must be concentric and the spaces between
the arch-in-arch has to be equally distributed.
In term of design and aesthetic, BVLGARI has good attention to details.
Coincidentally, I've watched the History Channel programme - Modern Marvels: The Arch in March.
After learning that a simple arch is one of the strongest and most versatile structures made by man which
is still being employed till today, I am impressed and become more curious.
Read a bit more, understand that an arch can support tremendous weight because its structure
is compressed by pressure and the keystone (marked #1 in above picture) is one of the most
important components (which is also a voussoir).
The arch also provide another advantage, it provides a more spacious opening and still
mechanically reliable, also used less material too.
With the Sotirio Bulgari models adopting the arch in the design, I have the
feeling that BVLGARI has find a relevant (the origin of the Bulgaris) and auspicious symbol
(representing strength and longevity as arch will still be used for the future).
Arch-entrance at one of the BVLGARI key stores.
Even the interior, the arches are prominent.
A few more pictures from different angles ....
Some space to engrave personal messages or even pictures on the caseback.
Sandblasted a picture on it would be stunning too.
The ardillion buckle is also in 18K gold.
Dimensions...
First impression, I thought it was too long to be worn on smaller wrist. Upon trying, it turned out
it seated quite well.
Will post some wrist-shots on another post.
3 more models to go, some wristshot and an interesting look at how the caseback integrated with
the lugs are fabricated.
Kong
This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-07-16 04:00:55
Updated Case-Making link.
This message has been edited by Kong on 2010-07-12 12:35:10