BVL Sotirio 125th Anniversary Edition

May 17, 2009,11:43 AM
 

For press material for this model, please click here.

Will begin with the special model which commemorates the
125th Anniversary,  a tribute to the founder - Mr Sotirio Bulgari.  

This model consists of yellow gold, pink gold and white gold with silver dial and hunter caseback and is in limited production of
125 pieces each metal.


(Note : the model in these pictures is a white-gold case.  Due to the lighting, the case colour varies)







From the aesthetic perspective, a major modification was done.
The first thing some of you may notice is the logo " BVLGARI BVLGARI" has been removed from the bezel.
It is a challenge to come out with another design to pace the 70's classic which is memorable and evoked emotion (regardless of the polarity).

The case design is totally revamped .  Bold and yet elegant, and very recognizable.

The case design is unique.  The lugs are one of the signature features. The 45° taper cut gives an illusion of a petite lugs connecting out from the caseband.
  My first thought was to question if the slim tapered lugs could withstand long-term wear and shock. 

After seeing the construction of the lugs integrated into the caseback at converging angles, it makes sense that this design provide a high tensile strength despite the minimal contact area  with the case. 

Another advantage of this case construction is it enables double-finishing which is near impossible for polishing tools.
( Will illustrate at another secondary post : CASE-Making, please click here  to view
)

The 125th Anniversary and the Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel model cases, are of full lustrous finishing whereas the rest of the models are double-finishing, which I prefer.




The hinge of the hunter caseback on this 42mm diameter case of  11.35mm thick.



The “SB” monogramed crown (on every Sotirio Bulgari watch) is of diameter 5.5 mm and with 22 teeths.



The 'tab' (at 2'o clock position) to open the caseback.

A closer look of the dial ...

Observe the clean and polished edge of the date window, it is pretty encouraging to see this
inconspicuous area being well-taken care of and BVLGARI did not round the obtuse interior angles.
Another impressive work, the arch managed to stack accurately above the date-window. Super alignment! 






This 125th Anniversary edition somehow projects the alphabet  "X" from the two diagonals of the lugs,
the two arcs on the dial and on the movement.

However, after asking the BVLGARI folks, they mentioned the arcs are actually  'arches' (inverted 'U' shape). 
From architectural history, 'arch and columns' were related to the ancient great Greek and Roman
engineering, and the Bulgaris were descendants of an ancient family of Greek silversmiths who
later moved to Rome, growing their business till present day.

Thus the arch-design on the new Sotirio's range is relevant.

An interesting bit of history, with the know-how of 'arch and columns', the Romans unsurpassed
engineering progressed extremely fast and many huge monumental architectures were built. 
The arch somehow could support enormous weight.  The Colosseum & the long Roman Aqueducts
are two awesome examples.


The rehaut (minute chapter ring) is azure finished (circular guilloche).

Another look at the clean edge of the date-window.

The date marker is by the 3 o'clock polished hand-applied index.




Besides giving an overview frontal view of the Sotirio Bulgari 125th Anniversary Edition, the
above pic  with the purplish tint on the crystal also provided a hint the sapphire crystal is convex
(which cost more to fabricate) and double-sided anti-reflective coated. 





The arches top surface is vertically-satine finished.

The edges of the arches are neatly beveled too, and some focused effort have been made to
ensure consistent beveling of the interior angles of the four corners framing the the BVLGARI
logo cartouche.

Both the Hour and Minute hands do not have any counter-weight.  They are  made in the
“ajouré” (skeletonised) form.

Notice the centre area of the dial is côtes de Genève, just like on the movement and followed
by opalin treatment,  sort of matt finish by sandblasting.





The above picture shows the various types of finished surfaces on the rehaut, super-polished
indexes/indices, the chamfered and polished screw, the opaline treatment on the Geneva Stripes
and the vertical-brush finish on the arch.



zooming out ...

Another interesting detail - the rotor actually resembles the arch design design above, with similar
surface finishing too!



and full view of the dial.




Now turning our attention to the hunter caseback ....




I would prefer Mr Sotirio Bulgari's signature to be underneath the hunter case, saving the top
surface for personalised message engraving.  An intelligent input which is also logical  from a
BVLGARI  Executive: a personalised message is private, and would  be more appropriate
to be 'hidden' inside smile .



One thing I like about this hunter caseback, it could be fully 180° open however, would have to
bear the sight of the hinge protruding from the side.
For other watches with hunter caseback which could only open till
90°, typically the hinge is hidden
at one side of the lugs.



The diameter of the hunter caseback is near to 42mm and with 18K gold, the weight could be substantial.
To hold the caseback securely so as not to easily flip-out, a mini snap-fastener is incorporated
to latch the caseback and yet, could be opened with ease and the right amount of force.




The coupling is mounted into case.



The stud onto the hunter caseback...


The chamfered stud.


Moving to the movement, the calibre inside is an automatic  BVL 250 ( it consists of 250 components).

It is customized from the Vaucher 4000 by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) for BVLGARI.
The Vaucher 4000 calibre took about 4 years to develop and also being modified to be used in
RM 005 & RM010 and other high end watches.



A closer look of the movement ...




Some works have been put in to beautify the movement to the level of high horology requirements
and open up more space to view the movement.
Not forgetting to plant in the signature too - the Arch.

There are 2 arches - one on the 18K gold rotor and the other on the bridge.  From either the dial side or
the movement side, will have a balance view of 2 arches per side.

Actually, upon careful observation, there is a 'secret signature' on the balance cock/balance bridge too,
a little arch cut-out !




The Glucydur balance is with Nivarox 1 Hairpspring, which is supposedly to be the top grade.
The BVL250 beating at 28’800 vibrations per hour (4 HZ)  has a double-barrel with a power reserve
of 55 hours, slightly low for a two barrels.

The main plate and bridges are in maillechort and rhodium plated. 
Wonder if the bridges would age gracefully with patina and character after 5 years?


The movement is decorated with 5 different types of finishings :

1)
two different diameters of “perlage” for the plate
2) “traits tirés” treatment at perimeter of the plate

3) “côtes de Genève” on bridges
4) satiné circulaire” finishing on the rotor weightand
5)
“colimaçonnée” on the rotor arms

All the holes (which the jewels seated) were countersunk and polished, as well as all screw heads were
polished and chamfered.





Understand from a  BVLGARI watchmaker, the personalization of the movement took about 3
months to be finalised. 
One particular area which required repeated correction was to fine-tune the rotor, when stopped
above the bridge with the arch cutout, they must be concentric and the spaces between
the arch-in-arch has to be equally distributed. 

In term of design and aesthetic, BVLGARI has good attention to details.


Coincidentally, I've watched the History Channel programme - Modern Marvels: The Arch in March.
After learning that a simple arch is one of the strongest and most versatile structures made by man which
is still being employed till today, I am impressed and become more curious.









Read a bit more, understand that an arch can support tremendous weight because its structure
is compressed by pressure and the keystone (marked #1 in above picture) is one of the most
important components (which is also a voussoir).
The arch also provide another advantage,  it provides a more spacious opening and still
mechanically reliable, also used less material too.

With the Sotirio Bulgari models adopting the arch in the design,  I have the
feeling that BVLGARI has find a relevant (the origin of the Bulgaris) and auspicious symbol
(representing strength and longevity as arch will still be used for the future).




Arch-entrance at one of the BVLGARI key stores.



Even the interior, the arches are prominent.



A few more pictures from different angles ....






Some space to engrave personal messages or even pictures on the caseback. 
Sandblasted a picture on it would be stunning too.











The ardillion buckle is also in 18K gold.




 

Dimensions...

First impression,  I thought it was too long to be worn on smaller wrist.  Upon trying, it turned out
it seated quite well. 
Will post some wrist-shots on another post.







3 more models to go, some wristshot and an interesting look at how the caseback integrated with
the lugs are fabricated.

Kong










This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-07-16 04:00:55

Updated Case-Making link.

This message has been edited by Kong on 2010-07-12 12:35:10


More posts: RM010

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Sotirio Bulgari 2009 Collection (with Live Pics)

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:39
Sotirio Bulgari 2009 Collection To commemorate the 125th Anniversary of BVLGARI this year, four new models are introduced. A clear sign that an expedition to serious watchmaking is gaining speed with the amount of intentional efforts poured in and vertica...  

BVL Sotirio 125th Anniversary Edition

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:43
For press material for this model, please click here. Will begin with the special model which commemorates the 125th Anniversary , a tribute to the founder - Mr Sotirio Bulgari. This model consists of yellow gold, pink gold and white gold with silver dial...  

Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:44
Please click here to access the press material The Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel is the premium piece of the Sotirio Bulgari Series. Only 30 pieces will be made. The size is also slightly bigger than the rest of the models. The ...  

Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:45
For the Press Release, please click here. The Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender comes in 2 variations: 1) limited to 250 pieces with 18-ct pink gold case, black oxidized dial and black alligator strap (SBP42BGLAC). 2) limited to 125 pieces wi...  

Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:47
Please click here for the press material The Date Rétrograde is the simple well-crafted 3-hand 'unlimited' model of the Sotirio Bulgari Series with an interesting twist, a rétrograde date. This year Basel, there is another formidable company which has sim...  

I like the white on white version

 
 By: aaronm : May 19th, 2009-12:47
But I'm disappointed in the choice of an ETA movement in such an otherwise interesting piece... A

Ha... I would love it to be with their own...

 
 By: Kong : May 19th, 2009-22:24
movement to complete the hoslitic package. From conversation with their executives, they know but did not disclose further. Kong

I wouldn't object to an outside movement

 
 By: aaronm : May 20th, 2009-09:00
I think that would allow them to make it at a much more attractive pricepoint, but they need to choose a better looking outside movement. If they are pushing this as finely designed horology, the can't have such an ugly movement A

Casemaking - BVLGARI Sotirio Series

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:58
Let's start with double-polishing. The question is " What is good about it ?" and " Is it very easy to produce it?" Double-polishing is about creating different texture of the surfaces to create contrast and layering effect in a monochromatic case. (In a ...  

I am impressed by the quality of the case.

 
 By: mokling : May 19th, 2009-01:40
Kong, if I invoke our common friend's saying, it is "champion of the champion". To me, the high quality of the case is the fusion of the quality of the case of A. Lange & Sohne and Peter Speake Marin. May be even better. Regards Ling

Initial impression, the case construction is ...

 
 By: Kong : May 20th, 2009-07:04
questionable structurally. After knowing how it is being fabricated, BVLGARI has done the engineering. For now, we see quite a few double surface finishing. Typically brush-finished the top of the lugs and glossed the edge of the edge. Got a feeling soon,... 

Wrist Shots with Various Models

 
 By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-12:02
Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde Start with a measurement of the subject's wrist 135mm , 135/25.4=5.3" A lady's wrist of 135mm or 5.3". Man! This is quite big, at 185mm or 7.28" . Diameter 42 mm (and 10.7mm thick) seating well on the lady's wrist... Looks ...  

measurement of the 3rd wrist

 
 By: lien : May 18th, 2009-00:01
wht is it? Great reports as always! Thx Kong!

Will ask the Lady :-) It looks good with her ...

 
 By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-13:21
Save The Children Project Silver ring. Get back to you later. Have you seen the pieces in your area? Kong

Not seem these beauties yet~

 
 By: lien : May 18th, 2009-15:46
i doubt they have them these fast but ll take a look if i passing by this week this new sotirio looks very unique and more artistic/feminine, my favor being the pearl dial date retrograde in all metal & the anniversary Best, Ed~ This message has been edit... 

The wrist size of the Lady ...

 
 By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-21:28
Hi Ed Got the dimension of the nicer wrist It is at 155mm or 6.10 inches. Do you normally prefer light colour dial? Kong

Thx Kong for the measurement~

 
 By: lien : May 19th, 2009-05:06
so cls...boy i have a women's wrist:p Maybe its summer! & in this particular design which is simple & refreshing, lighter dial lights up the whole piece as i m picturing an evening event mid summer's night Oh Kong, i have posted screen shot the white meta... 

Ok,,,,I disclose, you are not the only one!

 
 By: Kong : May 19th, 2009-22:42
Close wrist size/dimension to the Ladies. Just that mine is hairy ( being commented before). So now you know besides showing how the watches look on the ladies' wrists So you have watches group under Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter? Ok, will check your wh... 

haha cool thx!  
 By: lien : May 20th, 2009-04:26
nt

Thanks Kong for this very interesting report.

 
 By: jlux : May 18th, 2009-23:44
These are finally Bulgari watches that I like at lot and I am glad that the Bulgari name on the bezel has disappeared.All models look great with the Retrograde Day being my favorite. The case finishing looks really interesting. The only negative point may... 

Gerard, you are not the first person ...

 
 By: Kong : May 19th, 2009-22:17
to have questions about the lugs. My initial thought after seeing the pictures (from press release), the watch seems 'long'. Will it be wearable for my small wrists... and from mechanical point of view, can it withstand stress over a period of time. You w... 

A fantastic collection except that I do not like the

 
 By: happyguy1688 : May 19th, 2009-03:08
engraving of XX/ YY on the side of the case or on the dial (ref: Jacquet Droz)

What a fantastic interesting report Kong

 
 By: Geo : May 17th, 2009-23:27
Thanks a lot for posting these pics and text. Great to see that, even while it took them 125 years, the company is finally able to produce really great watches. These models look absolute stunning and I am so pleased that Bvlgari finally got rid of their ... 

Thanks Geo. See if you can try one on at your area...

 
 By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-13:27
BVLGARI has gathered inputs from the market regarding the BVLGARI BVLGARI logo bezel. So you could be one of the voice they heard So far from the pictures, which model/s do you like? Kong

Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde

 
 By: Geo : May 19th, 2009-02:15
Hi Kong, the Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde is my favorite. Geo

This 2009 collection is definitely worth a look

 
 By: Emmanuel H : May 18th, 2009-00:31
My favorite is the Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel. I love the design of the dial : legible, modern and classical at the same time. Your pics show a superb movement, at least on the dial side. The finish seems to be excellent. I also appreciate the Quantiè... 

Thanks Emmanuel for your observations...

 
 By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-14:05
Agreed with you about the layout & presentation on the Perpetual Calender. Uncluttered and clear (legible). Perhaps size is secondary, the geometry or shape of the wrist is more important to suit this new lugs-design. It is best to try it on, even for tho... 

Thank you for the link

 
 By: Emmanuel H : May 19th, 2009-12:27
I much prefer the lugs design of the Diagono Series. It seems to be more "wearable". The French manufacture BRM proposes a solution : adjustable lugs ! So the watch would look great on both ladies. Of course it implies a mechanical / technical look incomp...  

I'm impressed!

 
 By: Davo : May 21st, 2009-18:35
The Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel in particular is simply stunning! Well done and thanks so much for sharing, Kong!

It's nice to see consistency in style

 
 By: Ed. W : March 22nd, 2012-23:36
although I'm not a huge fan of the lugs. Thanks for the report Kong.