PeterCDE
10167
I?d say it depends
Feb 05, 2005,03:03 AM
Chronoswiss - HWRT
G'day,
admittedly: all i know of HWRT?s new piece is what is written and shown above. Personally i find it to be difficult to draw final conclusion based on this. And frankly, i have no clue who does the movement (keeping in mind a licensed production of a given design is a possibility).
So i?ll not try to add a different vote, but maybe a different perspective.
As it seems, the name STT is a point of criticism. Assuming the basic construction is really the STT design, what?s wrong with it?
STT is no longer Progress tourbillons (or caroussels), so the price point of pieces featuring these movements may not be a reliable base for comparisons.
And if so, one should keep in mind the HWRT piece is apparently different; not only by the appearance, but by the function as well.
Personally i?m trying to look at the execution rather than the basic design; as mentioned above, it can make a huge difference. Is the Lemania 2310 per se a better movement? Did it not come in affordable watches (by Tissot and Omega)?
I think the difference is what Patek makes of it and how the parts are produced, finished, decorated and assembled.
The amount of "tweaking", preferrably by manual labour, is to my understanding a considerable factor. And in this sense, the modifications can result in a completely different and no longer comparable piece.
When looking at the initial coverage, the differences between the Progress piece and the HWRT movement are relatively obvious; this refers to the finish but also to the function. The HWRT comes with a clever mechanism, which itself is a significant change.
And just to use different bridges and plates requires not only to make different bridges and plates, but a different base plate as well. In addition, the power reserve requires a different gearing. Therefore, i?d not be surprised to learn there is not much left from the original STT creation.
I?d say it depends on what you make of it and how the parts are executed, rather than using a basic layout which may come from a different source.
And finally, there?s a different factor:
We?re not talking about a unique piece or a tiny series (although the number is still small); the HWRT watch will be made in at least 150 pieces.
For comparison, FP Journe puts out 80-100 tourbillons per year and the figures by Girard-Perregaux are almost the same.
Now both brands do have some employees and still the wait list for a GP tourbillon is at least two years.
I?d imagine the wait list for a HWRT piece would be significantly higher if not using at least some parts which are adapted to a serial production (like any brand does). In addition, a completely hand-made novely-design tourbillon watch with new functions will most probably be much more expensive; if you compare the price of a Greubel-Forsay or the Guebelin/Daners pieces, you may get the idea.
Just my 2 cents!
Greetings from germany,
Peter